All were purchased from reputable seed companies. I'll list the total number of seeds I have. Let me know how many you want. If you don't have anything on my "want" list, I will send seeds for SASBE. Winter squash: Bush Delicata (5 seeds) 2006 Idaho Gem Pumpkin (10 seeds) 2006 Arikara (10 seeds) 2006 Melon: Ha Ogen (about 30 seeds) 2006 Hybrid Yellow Doll Watermelon (16 seeds) 2006 Blacktail Mountain Watermelon (9 seeds) 2006 Minnesota Midget (about 50 seeds) 2006 Golden Sweet (about 30 seeds) 2006 Green Machine (about 30 seeds) 2007 In exchange, I am really looking for some Chires baby corn to plant next spring, as well as Asian greens, leeks, etc. See my trade list for more. Thanks for looking!

Wayne, Disease is always a problem and wilt is a problem I deal with each year. I lost 6 plants under the netting due to wilt, it seem to went straight across in a line down the middle. I also lost one of my Stone mountains. I am completly Organic and I choose not to spray anything even organic sprays. Mainly I choose this approach because I don't have the time to spend worrying about each problem that arises and spending time and money trying to battle it. Instead I choose cultural practices to minimize the effects of insects , birds, deer ,rabbits, coons, squirrels and ever bacterial, fungal and viral microbes out they that want the vegetables and flowers of my garden. I have found the more I learn to let nature take its course and creat a garden inviting to beneficial insects and keeping the ground covered at all timeswith the use of mulches, cover crops, and employing tactics to ward off critters, including vigilant trapping of some pest such as squirrels the garden takes care of it self and I have more time to enjoy my garden and I feel a lot better about the produce I eat and raise. But wilt is probably my worst problem with melons and roatation is the key. I too have grown melons for years but not as long as you have especially in this garden spot. Hopefully I can continue to get a sweet summer melon for my troubles. Frank if referring to the Missouri yellow meated it is a big melon the one pictured is probable 35lbs I picked one the other day and that 's what it weighed. It was devine juicy and sweet. This was the first year growing it. Rodger

Blacktails and Sugarbabies have a bright yellow bottom from the start so don't go by that clue. The yellow bottom clue works well for larger white bottomed melons. Besides the brown tendril and other good clues posted above another one I find useful (esp for small melons easy to turn over) is to look for tiny black specks on the bottom that don't rub off. These are mildew specks and indicate that the melon has sat on the ground for a long time, long enough to be ripe. These black dots show up after the tendril has browned. The black specks are very small (smaller than this period . ) and are found grouped up in a patch of dots. If you ever buy a melon at the store it's the one clue to look for (within the yellow bottom) since no tendrils are attached.

Gary, am looking forward to your thread concerning seeds. There is an expanding market out there for those of us who grow veggies in containers especially, IMHO. While Dawn has given me a good start with her thread regarding suitable vegetable varieties for containers, it just takes a ton of research on the Internet to find those certain varieties, and right now, I don't expect we will ever see a one-stop-shop solution to the situation. So, I've been bouncing from seed site to seed site, like Tigger, trying to locate a few that are suitable containers, suitable for Oklahoma, and that I can expect fairly good production from. I also like purchasing smaller packs of seed because I don't grow as many vegetables as the typical in-ground gardener. I would definitely be interested in seed for proven plants in Oklahoma, and hopefully you can offer some determinate and dwarf tomatos, and other vegetables that can be grown in pots. Not trying to influence your decision, but just give some input. I also don't think you would have any problems with advertising by word of mouth! LOL! Thanks for the explanation, Dawn, but I am still unsure about the issues of non-GMO, so will take your info into consideration and continue doing more research. There is so much information out there on the worldwide web and with it as many opinions, pro and con. There has been some discussion here at GW, especially on the Organic Gardening Forum. I've already purchased most of my seed for this spring, If I save my seed of my heirlooms this year, I will have organic seed next year for those. I think there are certain vegetables that you shouldn't save unless you have taken proper precautions to protect them from cross-pollinating with other varieties of the same type, e.g., squash, is that correct? Anyway, we may not have to worry about GMO seeds right now, but it could happen eventually. BTW, I went to the Harris Seeds website today and it was just a real pain to navigate. They may have been working on it, so I'll try again tomorrow. Susan