They'll know how to swim. It's your job to offer a diet similar to what they'll be eating in the wild, supplementing with store-bought. Chances are when they get older they'll couple up with a wild one and learn from them. Imprinting may be a problem, I'd minimize contact with them as much as possible, and when they have feathers start to really let them out, free-range, instinctual feeding habits will kick in quickly. They'll probably return home for a while until they find a mate, a nice pond, or not. Make them a safe pen when they are older, maybe something like a chicken tractor you can move around while they eat grass or bugs? They'll need some type of heat source until they get some feathers (where are you located? is it still cold?). Protection from predators (a weasel can get in a 1x2" opening), water & of course what natural food you can scrounge up, and shade. If they survive in captivity when young I think they'll cope & adjust well. Sometime wild animals just don't do well in captivity, so be forewarned. That's all I can think of for now. Brendasue

I'm no duck expert...but I'll give this a try. Since there was an injury to it's head, do you think it's possible that ducky may have had a brain injury as well? A car is a big force against a little duckling, even if it wasn't hit. Might it be in shock from the traumatic event? I'm sure you would have checked the legs for possible problems by now, so there's not much I can think of asking about something wrong with the legs. Any chance you can post a few images so we can see how ducky is doing?

Hi Duckcrazy, We brooded our ducklings, chicks and goslings last spring in modified plastic storage containers (big ones) under a brooder lamp. We lined the bottom with newspaper to soak up the gross stuff. To prevent them from laying and pecking at the newspaper, we created 'grates' out of 1/2" squ coated cage wire (taped around the edges to cover jaggeness) which were cut to fit the length of the bottom. For a final layer, we placed soft screen material cut also to go the length of the bottom - this to give them good footing and prevent sprattle leg. Our brooder was planned with materials that could be lifted out of, sprayed down & sanitized easilly. We didn't have the luxury of using wood shavings. This worked well for us as a whole, but once those ducklings discovered their inner passion for water, we found ourselves cleaning the flooring layers & replacing soggy newspaper daily, and twice daily toward the end. They were continuously out of water too since they would 'blow bubbles' and play in their water until it was gone. We had to check the water supply numerous times a day. It was exhausting. Our runners were much happier the day we moved them to their spacious pen outside, which they share with our two hens. (I can say "hens" now. They're a year old!). I'm glad the hens roost though. In only a week, the bottom of the chicken coop is goop! To ducks, mud is simply succulent! and they see no need to dry off or wipe their feet before 'hitting the straw' for the night. Our coop is designed so that I can muck it out and bleach it down once a week. We provide fresh straw, weekly too. We're in the Pac. NW so while we don't deal with cold temperatures and snow very ofteh, we DO have to battle moisture problems, particularly to protect the health of our chickens. I gave up on nest boxes for the ducks. The hens keep theirs pristine! I never cringe when collecting chicken eggs. The duck eggs were always more filthy. Their nest boxes became litter boxes and those clumsy feet didn't help. I found it better to just allow them to lay in the fresh straw, and thankfully they've selected a laying corner away from the corner they use to dirty in. They're great layers though. Every bit as dependable as our hens. They eat lots of slugs -no shortage of those in these parts, and a kiddy pool was about the best $6 I've ever spent. We give them a fresh pool of water daily, they drink and bathe in the same water, so we provide raised watering containers for the hens (fortified with molasses/vinegar). Since we have so much rain, I've been experimenting with the deep litter method on the ground outside of the coop - in the pen area (see Roberta's? post, "Big fan of.." for details). I saved all the fall leaves in piles and add a layer now and then over the muddy ground. I also spread layers of the cleaner straw from the coop after I clean it out. I can see it all composting slowly. THere's just so much moisture here that I worry about all the bacteria and bird doo mingling with mud. As I said, ducks love mud and spend a lot of time snuffing around in it. I therefore keep the muddy ground heaped with straw and leaf matter. The chickens churn it up pretty good. I think it's working. Our ducks are total characters though. Like cartoons! They're RJ's favorite on our lil hobby farm. They're very patterened animals though. Once you've established a routine, don't go changing! Hope our experience was helpful. Of all the birds we keep, they are the most challenging with regards to cleanliness, but the best behaved (easiest to work with) I think. Best of luck! LF

It is a very common problem. Are they penned at nights? If so, make sure not to release them until at least two hours after daybreak, by which time the duck will almost certainly have laid - probably in a corner of the shed. If they are not shedded and they spend the night on the pond, then it sems she is just laying where she is rather than leave her companions. You probably need to pen them to get any eggs. Despite many years' exerience and a few hundred ducks, I have never had any success in getting ducks to lay in a box. Tens of thousands of hens yes, but ducks, no. It is likely to be the Rouen, because a pure mallard would not normally be laying eggs at this time of year. Old McDonald.