LOL! Succinct, thank you! I guess I'm going to have to devise something if I want them to develop any potatoes. I didn't know they'd grow and grow and keep on growing, regardless of the height of the hill. I have cinderblocks to surround this part of my garden next year for a raised bed, so maybe I can surround this part of the mulch pile with them now and extend the height with cardboard or anything sturdier that I might find around. I need to do it soon -- the plant stems above the mulch cover are just about 8 inches now.

No, you do not "have to" hill potatoes, and planting the seed potatoes deeply is a different way of achieving the same goal. However, planting deep only works if you have well-drained soil. If someone plants too deeply in soil that is cold and holds moisture too long, there is a very real risk that the seed potatoes will rot before they sprout. I usually plant my seed potatoes 8" deep but only put a couple of inches of soil on top of the seed potatoes and leave the rest of the soil sitting beside the hole. As the plant emerges from the soil, I rake more soil into the holes and fill the holes in over time. That way I can keep an eye on the potatoes and know they are growing, rather than planting them 8" down and then wondering for a month or more if they ever are going to emerge from the soil. I think you should do whatever works for you in the conditions you have. If you get good harvests from planting deeply, why change? However, be really careful in an extra-wet year unless you have soil that drains incredibly fast. Potatoes planted that deeply in cold, perpetually wet soil struggle to survive. You know how potatoes grow, right? You plant the seed piece and stolons grow upwards and outwards and roots grow downwards. Eventually, tubers will form on the parts of the stolons that are underneath the soil. Sometimes, as the tubers (which are your potatoes) enlarge, they break through the surface of the soil and sunlight hits them. Wherever the skin of your potatoes is hit by sunlight, solanine (a poisonous substance) develops, your potato skin takes on a greenish tinge and the potatoes develop a bitter flavor. Hilling or mounding soil around the base of the plant before potatoes bust up out of the ground prevents the sunlight from reaching the potatoes and turning them green. Because I generally grow potatoes in raised beds, I plant deeply instead of hilling. Normally, you'll get potatoes forming along roughly 6-8" of underground stolon. Sometimes, though, they'll form a little higher. I don't like hilling in raised beds. First, it just looks silly. Secondly, wind and rain erosion can wash down or blow away your hills. So, I plant deeply and then, around the time that the tubers start forming, I pile on the mulch thickly. The mulch, if applied thickly and packed down, keeps sunlight from reaching the tubers and turning them green. Some people believe that you can keep hilling indefinitely and more potatoes form along the stolon. However, I don't know anyone who ever has been able to produce tubers in our climate along more than 8-10" of stolon, even if they piled on another foot of soil as a hill or a foot of mulch. Heat does impact the plants' ability to form tubers, so here in OK, no matter how deeply we plant or how high up we hill or mulch, there's only so many potatoes the plants have time to form before it gets too hot for tubers to set and size. Do what works. I've tried growing potatoes every which way and my favorite way is deep planting with mulching later in the season instead of hilling. In a really wet year, though, I'll plant more shallowly and hill because if I plant deeply, the seed potatoes rot.

Chalk it up to a learning experience. Some people say if the ground is not frozen, you can still plant outside. And, if it was dry in the store and dry when you got it home, it was already a goner. They need to be kept watered, and they need a lot of light. You can try to save it, but they are not an indoor plant. Always check on the overall condition of the plant before you leave the store. There is a reason why it was "on sale". Here is the primer on "gift" roses: How to save a potted gift rose Also check out: questions about the winter Consider it a nice temporary decoration. If you want to try again, then next spring (early May), go find one that is fresh and has been watered. Bring it home. Follow the directions in the "How to save" thread, and plant it outside. You'll have a nice plant.

You will need to get the issue properly diagnosed before we can address the problem. Either through soil testing or by carefully removing the bark at the root collar area. If armillaria (honey fungus), there will be a white mycelial mat showing on the cambium. If it is armillaria, there's not a lot that can be done. There is no treatment available for this disease. But don't panic yet....get a confirmed ID. ETA: In case it is the armillaria, you want to disturb the soil as little as possible.