Ceth, the plants looked very healthy at 25 days... so the question would be, what changed after that time? It sounds like bad weather is the most likely explanation for the chlorosis. Yardlongs thrive in heat & full sun, and plentiful moisture... as long as the soil is well drained. Cool nights & excessively cloudy days would slow them down. As a rule, beans don't need nitrogen, so I would avoid applying manure around them. Fresh manure, in particular, can cause root damage. Applying wood ashes directly to the soil around living plants is generally not a good idea. The ashes are highly alkaline, and can burn roots. But your observations make me wonder. Tropical soils are often acidic (low pH) and wood ashes would increase the soil pH. If you can test your soil pH, I would recommend doing so. Wood ashes in moderate amounts would help to neutralize acidity, but the best time to apply them would be to dig them in several weeks before planting, which would hopefully give them time to dissolve. I grow many different yardlongs here, most are varieties from Southeast Asia or the Philippines. Those that are not daylength sensitive generally do well for me. They only grow when the weather is warm, though; because of my short growing season, I can only harvest beans for a month or two. While I have been to Southeast Asia many times, and am familiar with your climate, I don't have experience gardening there... so that is the best advice I can offer.

Thanks for the offer bev. I'll trade you for the Limas. (I don't like them myself, but my mother does) Just let me know what you'd like off my list. An updated list is as follows: C - Bought from Commercial Company T - Got from Trade with another member Corn - Sweet, Baby Corn - (C) 20+ seeds Flower - Cosmos - (C) seed # ?? Flower - Borage - (C) 30+ seeds Herb - Lovage (C)seed # ?? Herb - Red Shisho - (C) seed # ?? Melon - Cantaloupe Type, Prescott Frond Blanc - (C)25+ seeds Melon - Watermelon, Moon and Stars - (T) 5 seeds Onion - Tropeana Round - (C) seed # ?? Pepper (Hot) - Hungarian Yellow Wax - (C) 20+ seeds Pepper (Mild) - Pasilla Bajio - (C) seed # ?? Squash - Gourd, Dipper - (C) seed # ?? Squash - Pumpkin, 10 lb. - seed # ?? Squash - Winter, Heirloom Mix - (T) 20+ seeds Squash - Red Warty - (T) seed # ?? Squash - Buttercup - (T) seed # ?? Tomato - Green Skin Long Keeper - (C) 20+ seeds Tomato - Celebrity Hybrid - (C) 30 seeds

"I do see any bugs underneath but I'll spray with bug spray (the Bayer stuff) just to be safe. " Please don't. If there are no bugs don't spray. It's a waste of time (It won't stop bugs coming later) and money and pollutes the environment. Anyway on a thing this small you could rinse the whole plant under the tap.

Most day length sensitive beans flower during short days, around the equinox. I've grown a few such beans here that were given to me in swaps, and I have no hope of getting dry seed without a greenhouse. In much of California, where the growing season extends well after the equinox, there would still be plenty of time to get a good crop. However, I doubt that day length sensitivity is the root of your problem. Nearly all of the yardlong beans sold commercially appear to be day neutral... because if they will flower in mid-summer during my long days (at latitude 44 degrees N) and for a fellow collector in Batesville AR (latitude 35 degrees N) they should flower normally just about anywhere. Even commercial varieties developed in the Philippines have done surprisingly well here. And if you want beans in mid-summer, you would want a day-neutral cultivar. From the years I lived in California, I suspect that the problem is not day length, but heat. The Central Valley gets pretty hot in mid-summer, which would cause blossom drop for many beans - including yardlongs. Some gardeners in Texas have a mid-summer heat problem too, and can harvest most beans early or late in the season - but not during 100 degree days. In between, you just have to keep the plants alive. Are you sure that there were no flowers, or did the flowers or buds form, but just drop without setting pods? It might be that you will only be able to get beans during the months of more moderate temperatures. To get long beans in April, you might want to start them early as transplants, and use a variety with a short DTM. I have a bush variety that is very early, but only has pods 10-12" long. For pole varieties, the black-seeded types (such as "Asparagus" and "Taiwan Black") tend to be the first to bear. I would also suggest that you mulch your yardlongs heavily, and irrigate them more often than your other beans. Unlike common beans (which don't like wet feet) yardlong beans are water hogs; they do their best for me if the soil is never allowed to dry out. Edamame soybeans like those conditions too, so if you are growing any, you might want to place them both in that "extra water" zone. If you still want to try a day length sensitive long bean, I have one. When I lived in San Diego, I grew an heirloom yardlong bean from the Philippines ("Philippine Purple") that was day length sensitive. It has purple pods longer than "Chinese Red Noodle", that are very slow to develop - which is a good characteristic for beans which are eaten as pods. My own seed is getting pretty old, so it might need a little TLC... but I would be happy to send you a little. Fusion_power (who also posts on this forum) has been growing "Philippine Purple" recently, so if you inquire from him, he might be able to send you more viable seed than mine.