It is a low dose fertilizer, which is fine but different plants need different amounts of feeding and at different times. So it isn't a set schedule for the whole garden. Broccoli and cucumbers need more N than tomatoes and peppers but tomatoes need a bit more than peppers do. It also depends on how much you amended your garden soil before planting. If you added lots of good compost nutrients to the soil before planting then only the broccoli and cukes may need some after the first couple of weeks or so. Tomatoes and peppers after the first fruit set and then approx. every 6 weeks or so. But those are just very general guidelines. You learn with time and experience to tell when the plant needs feeding rather than going by a day of the week. Dave

I agree gardengal, the parasite comment is totally incorrect. But looking back up the rest of the thread there's quite a few erroneous comments. They don't grow larger leaves because they're in low light and smaller leaves when in brighter light. It's the other way round. There's many rainforest species that stay juvenile for years, even decades, and only mature when conditions become right. If the conditions become right sooner, they mature sooner. Not a matter of age. So the E. aureums mature when they get up high. From up top they send down vines through the air to the ground (unattached to the tree). Even though from a mature plant these vines have immature leaves. They grow across the ground until they reach another tree. It's only when they finally get higher up the other tree that they start to produce mature leaves. I also have Epipremnum pinnatum and E. amplissimum, both of which have mature leaves and flower much closer to ground. E. aureum on the other hand is an altitude freak.

Your chemistry is a bit off, Texas Weed. Ammonium hydroxide is just ammonia diluted in water,--it is the chemical name for the solution of ammonia and water that you buy in the supermarket. If the label says 5% ammonia by weight, it means that the solution contains 5% ammonia (NH3), not 5% ammonium hydroxide. Ammonia is 82.35% nitrogen by weight. Thus the 5% ammonia solution contains .05 x .8235 = .041, or 4.1% nitrogen by weight. That's about what you get in a bag of Holly Tone. When you apply Miracle Gro, you are usually diluting to a lesser concentration--thought it depends how much you use. I just doused each of my 5-7 ft. trees with 1.5 tbs of 24-8-16 Miracle Gro diluted in a 2-gallon bucket of water. I calculated I was putting in 0.18 oz of nitrogen per tree. To get 0.18 oz. of nitrogen from a bottle of 5% household ammonia, I would need .18/.041 = 4.39 ozs. of household ammonia. If I add that to a 2-gallon bucket of water, and dump it at the drip line of the tree, it should distribute the nitrogen nicely. I don't see any reason why such a diluted solution of household ammonia could not be applied to acid-loving plants, such as my evergreens, as a source of nitrogen. (You probably know that the ammonia acidifies the soil when the 3 hydrogens are released as the nitrogen is taken up by soil bacteria. Although at first, when it meets water, it goes the other way and briefly increases the alkalinity.) I don't know the supermarket cost of household ammonia, but I am going to look into it and do an experiment with a couple of my new shrubs. At proper dilution I can see no harm at all. At worst, too much of the nitrogen will evaporate. Experimentation will tell. I started looking up this topic, because I have planted over 50 evergreen shrubs and trees on my property, and have found myself spending a lot of money on fertilizer to keep them growing strong in the second and third year. The idea of ammonia as a source of nitrogen came to mind. Unfortunately, most of what I have found has been people completely ignorant of chemistry sounding off about how ammonia will kill your plants. You'd think they were on the payroll of Scott's or something. You mentioned that farms routinely inject anhydrous ammonia, which is simply ammonia gas that has not been dissolved in water. The anhydrous form is the most efficient way to transport it, because of the savings in weight. When it mixes with water in the soil, it is becomes ammonium hydroxide, like household ammonia.

Fertilize in intervals. It does no good for the wallet or environment by overfertilizing. How long ago did you spread that fertilizer. How big of patch do you have, squarefeet? Lawn fertilizers are good early-mid year. Here is a link to an info page from halfside bamboo Here is a link that might be useful: fertilizing