Ok. I was just wondering about it because my Earthboxes have the same mix, MG, and per the instructions I had to add 2 cups of dolomite mixed onto the top 4"~5" to prevent blossom end rot (which it surely has the last 2 years I've grown tomatoes in them, my only problem is cutworms,lol). The last time I checked the official EB instructions only required lime for tomatos. I have gone round and round with 2 managers at EB about their odd insistence that only tomatos require the extra lime when using a potting mix already limed. They claim tomatos not only need more calcium that anything else, but that they want an alkaline pH which flies in the face of every other source on the planet. For my troubles they sent me a nice EB coffee mug. I think they just wanted to shut me up ;-) Bottom line is that all plants need calcium and magnesium and there is no reason to treat tomatos different than anything else. BER on tomatos and peppers, more often than not, is not due to lack of calcium in the soil or potting mix, but unevenness of water supply which is required to deliver that calcium to the developing fruits. It has been demonstrated in controlled experiments that just a few hours of not enough water (or too much water which oddly can result in the plant not getting enough water) leads to BER. Unfortunately, too hot of temperatures also leads to BER and this is because the plants will lose water via the leaves faster than they can take it up via the roots and this results in an interruption of calcium to the developing fruits. Not much we can do about this one. My plants in regular containers haven't thrived like the ones in the boxes, that's why I was considering adding some lime and fertilizer into the MG mix. The lime won't help you. You don't need to raise the pH of a commercial, peat based mix as it is pH adjusted already with dolomitic lime. Possible reasons your plants in regular containers have not done as well as those in Earthboxes are better aeration in EBs as well as more consistent water supply. Consistency of nutrient supply is also a possibility. The EBs are really terrific to taking guesswork out of the equation. The folks who designed the boxes and the method clearly knew what they were doing. The good news is you can get results just as good in a regular container. Because you are giving up the water reservoir, you need to pay more attention to your watering. Because you are giving up the fertilizer strip you need to pay more attention to your fertilizing. Because you are giving up bottom watering you need to pay more attention the the tendency of your chosen mix to compact from top watering which reduces oxygen in the mix. I forgot to mention that I have some Dyna-Gro liquid grow plant food, 7-9-5, that I use on occasion for my few Japanese Maple trees. Terrific choice. Supplies all essential plant nutrients. I recommend you use this rather than the granular stuff that served you well with the EBs. Be careful not to water too much with the peat based potting mix, especially with peppers. Let the mix dry a couple/few inches down between waterings and use the DynaGro Grow formula according to instructions. You should do just fine. For best results, do not reuse the mix next year. Replace it. If you want a longer lasting mix, take a look at any thread by Tapla in this forum.

Well the hard frost is here! If not tonight it will be tomorrow for sure. I'm listing the things here that I still have left. If I put a * by it I won't be bringing it in and it will be frozen on Sat AM. Those that don't have a * will still be available after Sat. -Tradescantia fluminensis - wandering Jew (green small leaf, green with white stripe large leaf or purple striped large leaf)(cuttings) -Tradescantia pallida (purple)(cuttings) -Coleus - green purple and fusha (large rooted or cuttings) * -Bacopa -sushni -ornemental peppers - purple leaf purple fruit, marbles, trifetti, fish, * -bloody dock -cannas - Montana, green with maroon varigation, dark maroon leaves with red flowers very tall -fiber optic grass * - amaryllis - red with a white star - Hoya - Krimson Queen (small rooted cuttings) - Plectranthus - mona lavendar, Plectranthus argentatus (silver shield), Plectranthus coleoides variegatus (sweedish Ivy), Zulu wonder (purple), cuban oregano and a green and gold verigated one. Large rooted plants or cuttings. * - Geraniums - lime green, lime green and yellow verigated - Lavendula multifida - spanish eyes (have quite a few of these) * - Lavendula agustifolia - silver edge (this one is a little special) - purple sweet potato vine * - scented geranium - apple (full sized plant) - night blooming cerus - cuttings - spider plants - green (babies and full sized plants), green and yellow verigated (2 babies) - purple african violets - duranta Golden Eagle (special trade - I'll have to check on this one I'm listing it for a friend, this is a 1.5 x 2 foot small shrub)

You got a hybrid fish plant there. They are suppose to be white/green leaves, like someone spilled something on it. I also have one. Waiting to see what the fruit produces. Did you grow it from seed or buy the plant? Here is a link that might be useful: Hybrid Fish This post was edited by RonnyB123 on Tue, May 6, 14 at 14:10

Every year I grow eggplant and peppers in my front flowerbed, using leaves and/or fruits as the color scheme, as I do not plant anything unless edible! I have used many types of peppers - trifetti, maui purple, white bullet (yellow peppers), chinese multicolor (starts puprle, then yellow, orange, and red), bulgarian carrot, and thai nippon taka (grows clusters of long, red peppers, pointed up), to name a few. Unfortunately, peppers love heat, so this may be a problem for you there. A few of my pepper varieties were sort of stunted this summer, until a heat wave we have had in the last few weeks, when they took off - trifetti and chinese multi being two of these. Dave