Search for my post on "starting melons early". This is how I did it last yr. The system I used last yr would likely work in the Imperial valley starting now but that area is much warmer than most of CA. More importantly, it is sunnier, and sunshine is what you need to warm the soil. Any system that relies on sunshine will have the potential to overheat. But melons will stand a lot of heat. I've never seen any evidence of overheating damage. I started mine about March 1 last yr, about 6wks before ave last frost. If you get lots of sun, you could get them up and growing starting now. But at some point you will need to remove the poly. At that time the ambient temps are going to need to be warm enough to sustain growth, 80/50F is about minimum. My early planted hill (of a late variety) last yr had melons from early June until Sept. And would have lasted longer but we had a month of rain nearly every day. The hill ended up 40ft in diameter. I haven't thought too much about what I'll do this yr. Probably will start them about April 1, which would likely be a better time for you also. The Fruitnut

I grew them once, quite a few years back (probably late 1990's), just to see them grow. I wasn't EVER brave enough to try cooking and eating one, though. They were incredibly easy to grow, and yielded a bunch of fruits, some of which, towards the fall, exploded with the best reddish-orange goo coming out of them. I think the kind I grew was the "balsam pear" type. In Toronto area, I would just plant them indoors about 4 weeks ahead of time, under a grow-light, and then transplant outdoors after danger of frost. Just start them like you would other cucurbits, 2 to 3 seeds in a four inch pot, thinning to the best two. Moderate root disturbance is ok when transplanting, but try not to damage them if possible. You can grow them on the ground, but they're a lot happier with some type of trellis or support. If I ever try growing them again, I might actually get brave and try eating them. Just can't get over the "bitter" part -- when my eggplant get bitter, I throw them out. Dennis SE Michigan

The way I do it is to wrap some seeds in a clean damp wash cloth, and let the seeds germinate first. Open and rinse the cloth every day or two to make sure no molds grow, and to check for sprouting. Keep the rolled up washcloth (or paper towel) in a WARM spot and do not let it dry out. It takes about a week if it is warm enough. Then you can plant the pre-sprouted seeds in a pot and keep it warm and moist and under sunlight or flourescent light for a good 12 to 16 hours a day. (not 24 hours, since they need to "sleep") You do not need it to be as warm at night. Wait till the secondary leaves are about an inch diameter or when the weather is warm, and transplant very carefully without hurting the roots.

A friend planted limas about a week ago and they are emerging now. I think your conditions must be similar to the ones here, so I say go ahead and plant. Don't pay much attention to air temperature. It's soil temperature which is important and that depends mostly on how much sun is striking the soil. An inexpensive dial thermometer from a housewares department is useful for measuring soil temperature. Soil temperatures in the neighborhood of 80°F are optimum for beans although 70°F is OK. Second plantings work well for common bush beans. King of the Garden is a pole lima however. Limas and pole beans take longer to start bearing and bear over a more extended period. I would not expect a second planting with KOG. Jim