Installing fountain water feature with water supply or not?
11 years ago
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- 11 years ago
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Gallery - Week 8/3 - Water/Water Features
Comments (1)So sorry about missing last week. Thanks for your patience with me. Now, on with the next week....See MoreContemplating a water feature, please advise...
Comments (10)Guys, thanks for the advice and encouragement. I'll definitely make a fish pond water feature with a waterfall feature and waterlilies. I still have a lot more research to do to figure out all the specifics. lisa11310: Its good to know that hardy water lilies can overwinter just fine in the pond! I really don't want to bring water plants or fish indoors if I can avoid it. pcan: Your pond is lovely, and you made it so quickly! It was inspirational. I'll likely go back and reread the thread several times. I'll definitely build my pond myself. I'm actually using this year to design and collect supplies and will commence building next year. pashta_2006: Anne, I'm mostly zone 6a with the harsh winters being zone 5b. However, it is wonderful to know that the fish and plants survived winters colder than mine! I'll take your advice and build a pond 3 to 4 feet deep. I'm not entirely sure how you would keep a hole open in the pond ice... more research I guess. chris_in_ct: Chris, you are making me want a trio of koi to populate my pond! It is good to know that pond life is so resilient. I'm not sure what an airstone is... so yay, more research! gardengimp: Dianne, I do dearly want a waterfall feature, cascading or otherwise. I'll be sure to incorporate it into my pond design. I do want a more formal looking water feature with crisp lines as opposed to the traditional pond with organic borders. Your pond is gorgeous!...See Morebees in fountains and on other water features
Comments (20)Wasps are very beneficial -- unless you are raising butterly caterpillars. Their sole food is caterpillars. Malcome Beck tells a story about a man who had a pecan orchard. His nephew came and spent the summer and for entertainment with a sling shot he knocked down all the paper wasps nests he could find. The man was plagued by tent caterpillars on his pecan trees for years afterward until the wasps were able to restore their numbers. Even though I have plants for the butterflies to use as food for their larva I let the paper wasps stay. There are enough caterpillars from other sources to keep them going and they don't take too many butterfly babies. Paper wasps are very non-agressive and I can reach near their nests, but they don't sting unless I inadvertently bump the nest. My wasps have come to recognize me, they are the genuises of the insect world, and even if I do bump the nest they just give me a little warning buzz fly by, or at most a tiny sting, so tiny I don't even bother putting anything on it. I've had huge nests hanging right over the patio door where people go in and out all the time and the wasps never pay them any mind. Now the big red wasps are a different matter. They like to nest in cavities like empty decorative bird houses in the eaves of the house and are more agressive. They are more likely to sting if you walk close by. Muddaubers are related to wasps and are very VERY non agressive. They are solitary nesters and don't nest in a group like paper wasps. You can be touching their mud nest and they do nothing. If you caught one in your hand and held it they might sting of course. The sole food of muddaubers are spiders which they collect and pack into the cells of their mud houses (which look like tiny pueblos to me) and lay a egg on them. They then seal the chamber and the larve feed on the spiders. Malcome Beck said he opened many nests and found 90 percent of the spiders contained in them were black widow spiders. Of course it depends on your population of spiders. I have found many spiders in the nest when I used to open them as a child that I had never seen before in the garden. While I like garden spiders -- they do their job in the garden also by catching insects, I appreciate that nature keeps bug populations in better balance than I could by using insecticides or knocking down wasp and muddaubers nests. I would never have believed it possible, but I have had no damaging insect problems since I stopped using insecticides. There are other types of wasps, some that nest in the ground that look like bees. I can stand and walk by the hole where they are coming and going and they never pay any attention. Neither do the large cicada killers. There may be some other agressive wasps, but I don't know about them. As to bees, which are the subject of this thread, they are very non-agressive when foraging away from the hive -- whether honey bees, bumble bees or other wild bees. I get right in the middle of them while they are working the flowers to take pictures and they just get out of the way. Happy gardening the natural way....See MoreInstalling 200 feet of 2 inch water supply
Comments (2)Schedule 40 PVC pipe is code approved for water supply lines and essentially there is no difference between gluing 1" and 2" pipe, however PVC pipe is far from being the best choice of material. PVC is made in rigid 20' lengths which means you will have a joint every 20' and at any change in direction. When you consider that the leading cause of leaks results from joint failures it is then obvious why we prefer to use PE or PEX continuous roll pipe, with PE being the material that is most commonly used. It should also be mentioned that while all pipe used in direct burial applications should be bedded with loose sand, none the less, the continuous roll pipe is much easier to install because being flexible, it will tolerate minor changes variations if the depth of the trench. Also, PVC tends to dry out and get brittle with age, therefore it does not tolerate rocky soils or roots as well as the roll materials do. Now, contrary to public opinion, there is no guess work in determining the correct size of the line. Before we could determine the size of line for your application we would need a lot more information. When determining the correct size of the water supply line we first need to have a list of all the fixtures in the structure to determine the total demand. By example, I have used the code tables to determine the total load for a typical house with two bathrooms and code minimum fixtures in each room. (from IRC Table IRC-T 2903.1) KITCHEN: sink..........................2.5gpm Dishwasher....................2.75gpm Bathroom #1 Lavatory.....................2.00gpm Tub/shower...................4.00gpm W.C. (tank type).............3.00gpm Bathroom #2 Lavatory.....................2.00gpm Tub/shower...................4.00gpm W.C> (tank type).............3.00gpm Laundry tub..................4.00gpm Hose Bibb....................5.00gpm Total load..................32.25gpm In order to minimize the effects of pipe wall erosion code limits the "Velocity of flow" in copper pipe to 8ft/sec and in plastic pipes to 12ft/sec. For that reason the pipe friction head loss tables generally list both the velocity of flow and the pressure loss per 100 ft. Code requires that we must provide a minimum of 45psi at the main water shutoff valve where the water enters the structure however we also want to minimize the material cost of the pipe so we now need two more factors before we can determine what size the line must be. We need to know the average working pressure at the prime mover, whether that is at a well head or from the municipal water main and we need to know the difference in elevation between the location of the prime mover and the main water shutoff valve to determine the amount of vertical static head gain or loss. By example, if your house is built on a hill and the location of the main water shutoff valve in your house is 50ft higher than the location of the municipal water main you would have a vertical static head loss of 50' x 0.434psi/ft vertical or 21.7psi vertical static head loss. (if your house was 50ft lower than the municipal main it would gain the 21.7psi, while if you have a flat run VSH = ).) The friction head table jumps from 30 to 35gpm so we can round off to the nearest number, which in this example would be 30gpm. At 30gpm you 1" line just barely meets code standard with a velocity of flow of 11.12ft/sec and a pressure loss of 18.35psi/100ft or a total pressure loss of 36.70psi. An 1-1/4" line would yield a velocity of 6.42ft/sec and a pressure loss of 4.83psi/100 for a total loss of 9.66psi. an 1-1/2" line yields a velocity of 4.72ft/sec and a loss of 2.28psi/100 or a total of 4.56psi. A 2" line yields a velocity of 2.86ft/sec and a loss of 0.66psi/100ft for a total pressure loss of 1.32psi In this example, if the municipal main pressure is greater than 54.66psi you could meet code standard with an 1-1/4" line and if the municipal main pressure is greater than 49.56psi you could meet code standard with an 1-1/2" line. A word of caution here. When calculating the fixture demand the code requirement for a shower is 3gpm, however for the purposes of estimating both supply and DWV lines a shower is not classified by the number of shower enclosures, but rather it is determined by the number of shower heads that can be operated simultaneously. If you have a super shower with a regular shower head, a hand shower, a rain head and body sprays you must calculate at the rate of 3gpm for every shower nozzle that can be operated simultaneously. I have seen many a custom shower failed on code inspection because they installed the standard 2" drain line, but when the inspector computed the DFU load for all the showers the drain line was not big enough. Here is a link for plastic pipe friction head loss tables that you can download in PDF format. http://www.eljay.com/pdf/friction%20loss.pdf...See MoreRelated Professionals
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