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ruet

Eagerly awaiting Ferts in containers III

ruet
14 years ago

I am a happy camper. I think I finally found a good fertilizer! About half nitric N, a decent NPK ratio for Tomatoes, and a (hopefully) adequate level of micros.

I have high hopes, but I know next to nothing when it comes to the nitty gritty details -- the difference between one source of Phosphorus vs another, etc. Until reading Al's great Fertilizers in Containers post, I had no idea about micros, or why Nitric N might be more welcome in a fertilizer than Ureic N. So here is the label, translated to English. Please let me know if you spot any trouble.

7% N (3.3% Nitric 3.7% ammoniacal)

3% Phosphorus Pentoxide P2O5 soluble in water

6% Potassium Oxide K2O soluble in water

0,01% B

0.002% Cu, EDTA Chelate

0,05% Fe, EDTA Chelate

0,02% Mn, EDTA Chelate

0,001% M

0,002% Zinc, EDTA Chelate

Chelates guaranteed stable between pH 4-7

Poor in Cl

To allow for a better anti-lime effect, mix with water and allow solution to settle overnight.

Stacking this fert up against Al's values for how plants use nutrients, it looks like the deficiencies for this fert are:

S 8 vs None

B 0.2 vs .01

Cu 0.03 vs .002

Cl 0.03 vs .03

Coincidentally, Al said S, B, Cu & Cl are rarely deficient in Containers, but after rereading the fertilizer posts, I wondered about these.

-S: Al says Sulfur is "USUALLY" present enough in the irrigation water and in the air to supply needs "in most US locations"... Any idea if the same would be true here in Madrid? :)

-B: 20x less Boron in the Fert than what will be used, is this too far outside the range of what my tap water / 5-1-1 media could reasonably provide?

-Cu: 15x less than what will be used.

-Cl: Probably enough in city tap water as long as I don't let it outgas overnight, or does that not make much difference? Usually I do leave it overnight, and water first thing in the morning. How is letting it settle overnight related to the "anti-lime" action? Puzzled on this... Anyway, all opinions welcome! Thanks!

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