Folks...I guess I was having a "senior moment", or maybe it's a blonde thing...but whatever it was, I incorrectly labeled the dl above that I called Strawberry Masquerade. It's really "Raspberry Masquerade" DUH!!! I knew it was one of those berry ones!!! LOL Sorry bout that....I'll try to pay closer attention from now on. Thanks to all you folks who've commented on my photos since the last time I was on this thread. So glad you're all enjoying my garden and dl's. Jan

Congratulations on your new home! Thanks for posting a photo - it makes it easier to visualize. Do you have a photo that shows the whole width of the property so we can see how this fits in? Like Defrost, I'm just an average homeowner who gardens in my own yard. I think a plan like yours with a combination of woody and herbaceous plants helps give year-round interest. (And I'm impressed that you have mapped out a plan!) With your house style, which isn't formal and balanced, I wouldn't worry about balancing your garden. You've done well in making the bed relatively deep so that your plants don't look like a line along the house. Be sure you are starting your bed outside of where the drip line would be if you didn't have gutters. Otherwise you will find it hard to keep plants happy within the dry zone as they have a roof over them. If it were my house, with the visual weight of the upper story, I would want some plants that reach up some to balance that and to break up the strong horizontal line where the upper story steps out. On the far side of the door and farther out from the house (not in your bed unless you extend it to reach out) I probably would put a small tree that has year-round interest, but can be limbed up so as to not block your lower story windows, perhaps a Japanese maple, Stewartia, or pagoda dogwood. I'd put three shrubs, one on each corner and one on the left of the front door, but not one on the right of the door, unless it's a quite small shrub that will stay small. It's not as big a space so there really isn't room for much of a shrub without blocking light to the window to some extent, and you want the front door to be visible. You might want to consider one of the more restrained clematis on a narrow obelisk to give some height and bulk to that small space. A large pot planted with taller annuals or tender perennials would also work there. I like hdrangeas, Mt. Laurels, and rhodies to fill the role of larger shrubs, if they work for your growing conditions. Hydrangeas in winter are pretty homely, however, so I might put that at the far corner of the house if you want one so that it isn't as prominent when it's unattractive. Consider getting one that blooms over the course of the summer, since many are only spring bloomers and if you have a late frost, you've lost all flowers for the year. In choosing your specific varieties of shrubs, be aware that sizes are often given at what they will be after 10 years, after which they will continue to grow. Then, as your plan shows, fill in the bed with herbaceous plants. I have assumed that you have checked out your soil, sun and moisture, and have chosen your plants to suit that. I haven't grown most of your smaller plants so won't comment on those. One thing to consider if you haven't already is plant foliage. Since most perennials and shrubs only bloom for part of the year, think about whether the foliage on your plants have interesting and varied color, texture, shape, and size so that even when your plants aren't blooming there is something of interest in the garden. A good resource is Mindy (AKA arbo_retum) here on the New England forum. Her website, which has lots of great photos, is http://www.cottonarboretum.com/ As far as the overall layout, think about getting annuals for the first year or two to fill in some until your other plants get larger. I usually plant for that 10 year size or even a bit larger, and put in smaller fillers for the first few years. I probably would plant that grassy triangle as the walkway makes a natural ending/edging. From the photo, your front walk looks a bit narrow (could 2 people walk comfortably side by side?) so you may want to consider a plan to widen that in the long run if it's as narrow as it looks. Too ambitious? Really only you can answer that since you know your energy, finances, and time. It can be done in stages - prepare one bed, then plant it. Then start on the other bed. Or prepare both beds and plant your woody plants and then mulch well to prevent weeds and keep moisture even. (You'll want to do that regardless.) Plant your perennials in early fall when there are sales or even next year if you have run out of time, energy or finances this year. You will probably want to put an edger outside of your bricks to prevent to grass from growing in under them. Ultimately, if you decide you don't like the bed or something doesn't flourish there, you can always replant. Please keep us update with your progress.

The great thing about this area is that we can grow a very wide range of plants, but obviously some will do better than others. If you're looking for ideas on what plants to grow, your best bet is probably to head to somewhere like the Washington Park Arboretum or the nurseries I mentioned and look around. Also, I bet any neighbors with gardens you like the look of would love to give you advice or at least tell you about the plants they grow. A good web resource to check out is www.greatplantpicks.org I haven't found too many books I really like about PNW plant selection specifically. I think Marty Wingate's "The Big Book of Northwest Perennials" could be useful for picking perennials that do well here, but the photos are not that helpful--all macro shots that tell you nothing about a plant's habit or scale. When it comes to roses and shrubs, I mostly research them individually online or in specialized books. Of course, that requires you to already have some idea of what you want. Here is a link that might be useful: Great Plant Picks

Good advice. I would add that although the idea of plants around the base of a tree is very attractive, that is often one of the very most difficult places of all to plant. You have to contend with tree roots which get in the way, need to be protected from disturbance, and which will gobble up every bit of fertilizer and water they can get their roots on, leaving your smaller plants hungry and thirsty. I would advise you to dig one flower bed somewhere in your yard that gets at least full morning sun. Start out with a realistically manageable size, but dig it well and add plenty of amendments, any one or combination of these: chopped leaves, grass clippings (not ones with seed heads!), compost, manures from cows, horses, or chickens (well aged), soil conditioner, etc. The key is organic matter and plenty of it. When I am building a new bed in my red clay, I plan to use approximately 5 pounds of amendments to every square foot of garden space. This is an easy figure when I am buying bagged amendments. Bags are convenient and manageable but cost more. When I'm building a big project, I buy amendments by the truckload. The people at the yard can help you figure what you need. Once your bed is built and your soil is ready, plant. If you want the bed to look good year round, include a few shrubs, evergreens, if possible. Then do some research: read books on SOUTHERN gardens (The Southern Living Gardening Book is a must), and haunt the forums here. You will be able to find lots of ideas for plants. I am going to list some of my favorite perennials and annuals here in east central Mississippi for you. Have fun and good luck! Perennials: Amsonia taberaemontana Verbena, Snow Flurry Shasta Daisies Day Lilies Knockout, Homerun, and Drift Roses Hydrangea Paniculatas: Limelight especially Durantas: Variegated and Cuban Gold Tibouchinas Crinums (bulbs): repeat bloomers Mystic Spires Salvias Salvia farinacea, Victoria and Evolutiion Rain Lilies (Zephyranthes. bulbs) Rudbeckia Maximas Cupheas Helianthus Hibiscus, Crown Jewels Pink Muhly grass Purple Fountain Grasses (pennisetums) Annuals: Zinnias, both great (Elegans) and Small (Profusions and Zaharas) Vincas Pentas Celosias: This year I am trying a tall one called Cramer I can tell you that all of these perform extremely well here with minimal care. They all have a very long bloom season. But, the only way to know for sure what does well in your garden is to try! That's half the fun.