I know You want information on the double late flowering red. I am not clear if that is the cultivar name A friend and I got some locally grown 'Corinthian Pink' ornamental cherry trees. their narrow growth was great for us, because we needed them for the narrow strip between driveways and the neighbors front yards. There are also 'Corinthian Red' and I think a 'Corinthian White' cultivar available. The ornamental Corinthian cultivars began to bloom about 3-4 weeks later than my friend's 'Kwanzan' cherry began blooming. The Corinthians' blooms lasted past the time that her ornamental cherry changed over to full leaf. We planted our 5 gallon potted sized Corinithians prior to them breaking dormancy this year, and even though they had only a month or so to adjust to the transplant and did not bloom as fully as they should next year, they still bloomed stunningly beautiful. When we planted them, we poured a liquid sulfer onto the entire surface of the hole and also mixed some into the back fill. Additionally, we also poured over the rootballs some Espoma Bio-tone Starter, which at planting time contributed the most commonly occuring bacterias that help feed trees roots. I think planting them with the sulfur and Biotone kept them from becoming stressed, and that helped to prevent some of the common borer and other bug invaders from successfully attacking. Both her two and my one just amazed us when we saw how beautiful the flowers emerged. I can see how you have been capitvated by the beauty of the late blooming red flowering peach. As for the leaf curl infestation mentioned, that is a common problem with most peaches. The reason it can be difficut to control, is that once the leaves show evidence that they have been attacked with the leaf curl pathogens, it is too late for any treatment to get rid of the problem. For that reason, if there are peach orchards in your area, or homeowners growing peach trees in their yards, it is a good idea to apply the leaf curl preventer prior to bud swell. If you do it during the time of bud swell or for sure during bud break it is too late for the treatment to be effective. My friend and I did not find out about peach trees' potential leaf curl problems until after our trees had already begun to bloom. We could only wait to see if our trees would be infected. Thankfully none of them have displayed any signs of that common, peach tree infection. After flowering, our ornamental corintian peach trees produced a green, pea sized fruit which did not grow any larger and is no longer noticable on the trees. As of yet, we also have not noticed the trees producing ground litter, so they should prove good for planting near driveways or walkways. Even though our trees are not the same cultivar as your late bloomer, the sulfer and bio-tone starter along with the leaf curl information I offered should still apply to your later blooming red peach cultivar.

Where to begin?? ? Well, there is a good chance the pepper plant died because it was already weakened from the aphids and couldn't take the shock of the transplant. How did you go about removing the roots from the soil? was there much root loss? As Hex mentioned, in Hydro you need very low urea or ammonia nitrogen sources for you plants. If you're going to keep using soluble soil fertilizers, I've used MG all purpose 15-30-15 to successfully grow parsley and basil. it has a combined U/A of 15%. Still high, but I got it to work. the system you linked to is very good indeed. However, you'll notice they are using it to root and grow stock from cuttings. If you want to grow plants from seedlings, you'll need to make sure your netpots have a medium in them to hold the plants and you'll need to have a timer on the sprayers to keep the medium from staying too wet. In that situation, you'd be better off starting the plants in a different setup then transplanting it the the aero system. Also, with peppers at least, make sure the crown of the plant is just at OR ABOVE the top of the medium otherwise you'll get some damping off if the medium stays too wet. If I had a known fungus death in my system, I would sterilize the whole thing before putting more plants in it and/or I would plant something which in naturally immune to the fungus (for at least one "season") I don't really understand anything you wrote about germinating in a paper towel. It sounds like you're just letting them start and continue to grow in one. When I use a paper towel, I just let the seed germinate them immediately I move to germinated seed to another vessel, whether it be one for hydro or one for the soil. Please elaborate further if possible. I personally don't encourage growing long term plants like fruit trees/shrubs/vines. They get big and heavy. Then they're difficult to move around. also, the roots will eventually fill up the reservoir container and you're having to constantly change / add nutrient. It's a long term commitment and I don't think it favors hydro. There will be a time when you get tired of dealing with it. But that's just me. you may have a different mentality. Don't let hydroponics scare you. As a long time dirt farmer you already know how to recognize nutrient deficiencies and pest damage. that goes a long way to tending to plants. a basic knowledge of nutrient tending and you'll be good to go. As you're new to this, you should probably start off with a commercial hydro fertilizer and follow their dosage recommendations. That way you're not over or under fertilizing your plants. some pH strips (from a pet store), recognizing nutrient deficiencies and This chart and you'll be growing plants a plenty. Then as time permits you can learn more about mixing your own nutrients (if you want) and expand from there.

Hi, Pollinaiting is pretty easy, a lot of info on the internet how to do it, but germinating is another story, you need special conditions such as a sterile environment, special media (agar, suiker and fertelizer etc) and you have to work in a sterile enviroment. It takes also several years before the plant wil flower. But the question is why should you want to do that with a Phal, you can buy for a few bucks in the store (5 -> 10 Euro here in Holland) I sow it only species who I cannot buy or not for a reasonable price. Greeings To give you an idea see my website far from ready bat. Here is a link that might be useful: My Orchid Projects This post was edited by scorpio_bafh on Sun, Feb 8, 15 at 4:34

I don't use a pebble tray for these, so I am not sure if it is even necessary. Every pebble tray set up I have ever heard of was a tray, not sure using the decorative pot for this purpose is the best idea. The bottom of the root zone is not an area I would think would need extra humidity. Mine prefer plastic pots over terracotta, but I have a couple that are happy in terracotta. I do experience the odd leaf dying off though, this is likely normal. When I first got a Cast Iron Plant, it was a struggle to keep it alive. Clay pot, plastic pot, plenty of water, dry out before watering, the plant still kept dying and pushing new leaves. I eventually discovered the major problem was Mealy bugs. If your dying leaves look to have odd mottling such as green circles on the yellowing leaf, look for pests. The mealies started off looking like tiny white needles, so it was not obvious to me what was happening. Over all I would make sure your plant is not staying wet down at the bottom of the pot. Keep the plant on the drier side with out letting it get dry. They do not want direct sun ( though small amounts of interior sun likely is fine). Everything I have read about these say not to fertilize it much. As for flowers, try giving it summer vacations outside once the weather allows. I have heard some say these will survive outside in zone 7- I am leery of that advise though. Matter of fact I remember reading here on the GWF that some one in NJ grows them outside- they die back for the winter then grow back in Spring- again I am not advising this, just saying.