The problem with RRD is there is no molecular test in part because the 'virus' or what ever it is has never been isolated. So all the analyst can do is look at symptoms. (There are times when I deeply envy the money the Europeans and Asians are putting into rose research and into rose disease research.) When I've had herbicide damage, it has lasted only one year. I do know someone who roses took three years to recover and there's a garden in western SC that had herbicide problems for at least two years running (although it was tended by volunteers who may have made the same mistake of using a personal sprayer that had had herbicide two years in a row). If they were my roses, I'd cut the scruffy canes way back. At least half way. IF it's RRD what will come back will be really ugly. If it's herbicide it will come back ugly, but the same kind of ugly as you've already seen. And you'll have reduced the titre of herbicide that is systemic in the plant. You will know in about three weeks if you'll need to take more actions. Let me know how this plays out. All too often, gardens way out in front of the 'battle front of RRD' do get infected by vagrant mites. It has happened so many times. We know that RRD is in your area. Good luck.

Last week was the autumnal equinox so right not the sunrise is almost due EAST and sunset is almost due WEST. If you face the sunset, your right side will point North and your left side will point South. If you want to over-winter them outside, you will need to put them on the south side where the winter sun shines from low in the southern sky. I would not leave them in pots. In pots the roots are above ground and will freeze easier than if the plants are in the ground. As for hardiness, the EEs and cone flowers should overwinter in the ground without a problem. You may want to mulch them with leaves for added protection. Here is a link about the Mex. petunia that may help. Here is a link that might be useful: Mex Petunia

Hi Jack - Guess what? ... I found the thread where Phil posted about his PVC & mill felt method ... also had his email address in his post - so I send him my ??? directly and here is part of his reply: Ditus ..... "The felt I get is from the papermill I work at and isn't for sale to the public. I have 52 blue mop heads in a cold climate, and they have flowered for 4 summers. You must protect the nodes. I recommend the ES as the blue mop head of choice." Phil No wonder no one had an idea what I was inquiring about. I tried several other places including a paper supply co. etc,etc,etc! I'll stick with burlap. I've encaged all my bloom tenders and just covered the top lightly with burlap for the overnite low 20s ... will seriously put them to bed as soon as they drop their foliage - be around T'giving time here. My handsome & old Gingo tree barely, slipped on his golden cloak when Mother Nature said "Drop it!" ... he must have obediently done it overnite ... he was bare & his golden cloak piled neatly around his feet ... LOL!!! No stinky fruits to rake this year ... I was saved by the 2wk freeze last Apr. G'nite

OK - that sounds good esther opal - I hope you didn't think I was belittling your information - if you did, I apologize. What is your zone? Do you get a lot of snow/frost heaving in your winter? I have lost quite a few plants, not just hosta which seem to weather the winter a little better than other, to frost heave. Sometimes almost all my hosta roots are above ground when I get to them in the spring. This year because of my back and not getting out to the garden, the deer and rabbits have been feasting! I am hoping the green stalks will provide enough green for the plants to gather a little strength. One other thread I have read suggests that I might be lucky! Thanks again for your help - and again I hope you didn't feel that I was just disregarding your information. There is so much knowledge out there - I sometimes get overwhelmed trying to sort out what could be the most beneficial path for me to take! Mind you, I understand that nothing is guaranteed. Jakki