I agree with neilaz (duh, since he reposted something I wrote). Most people aerate because they think their soil is compacted. There is a difference between compacted and hard soil. Soil becomes compacted when the air is driven out of the soil mechanically as when making bricks or adobe. Hard soil is caused by a elimination of beneficial fungi which normally keep the soil loose. There can be a number of reasons for that, but the approach quoted by neilaz is a serious cure. Commercial surfactants cost $70 per gallon. It turns out the main ingredient is the same as the main ingredient in most shampoos. Since you only need $0.30 worth of baby shampoo, just use that. Do not use dish soap. It is different. Use only clear shampoo.

Thanks morpheus... well I rented an aerator this afternoon and sadly it was pretty futile. Despite the fact that we've had about 1.5" to 2" of rain 48 hours ago the tines just couldn't seem to penetrate the soil. The sod that I used 4 years ago was on a mineral base (versus peat) which makes it tough to penetrate. Once you get past the first inch of mineral base the soil underneath is nice and soft. But as I noted the aerator tines just couldn't make it through the top layer. Well I'm out $25 for the rental... and have now hired a professional company to finish the job for $75...! Bummer. :(

IMHO that looks like it would do a reasonable job provided you don't mind the damage it does to the gear case of the machine. You're adding 20 pounds additional weight hanging off the gear case on each side which the original designers never considered. I'd just rent an aerator and drag it around behind your tractor while mowing. Good luck, Ev

sorie6, right now is not the most bestest time to spray for "weed" control, although it you can work in those temperatures now would be a good time to aerate the soil, if it needs it. Mid September would be when you would want to look at "weed" control if it is needed. Since most all annual "weeds" in the grass will be going dormant for the winter about then concentrating on getting the turf grass you have to grow better and thicker wil go a long way toward eliminating the "weeds" than would any control measure since they have most all spread more seeds that will germinate next year when conditions are right. Right now, if possible, keep the grass well hydrated, mow high, recycle the clippings right where they came from (the grass clippings will provide 1/2 your lawns annual nutrient requirements). Get a good, reliable soil test done if you have not already done that and this fall adjust the soils pH, if necessary, and later feed that turf grass so next spring the grasses will grow up hale and hearty able to compete with the "weeds". stan6, as bpgreen has stated those liquid "aerators" are simply soap that lessens the surface tension of water so it penetrates better. They do nothing to actually aerate soil. The most bestest way to get soil aerated is to spread compost over the soil to loosen it and while this may take time, and is something that needs to be done at least annually, it is a more permanent solution to compacted soil.