Stags are extreemly easy and they say the bannana peel was a myth but it's nice to keep things out of the landfill. So it will just mulch down. You really don't have to do much. Here in florida they pretty much get watered when it rains unless it is extreemly dry. My family and I have plants my mom has many the size of volkwagons. My dad liked to mount them on metal egg crates you fill the inside with lawn clipping leaves from the yard whatever and wire on pups to the outside. Then attaché heavy chains and hang on a very strong branch. I have had to use plastic crates and one day will need to upgrade the chain to heavier one and go across the bottom of the plant. They will get cold damage if it goes below freezing too long and it will get sun burned. If your fetilizing other things you can give it some even lawn fertilizer. Just throw it in the top. They are very cool.

Hi Since nobody else jumped in here's my two cents lol. I've only dome it a couple of times and only one was successful.. The frond that stays flat the "shield" will develop separate roots and this is a good time top remove them?? I find that unless it's a rare variety (any kind other than (Bifurcatum)it's not worth the effort as you can get well established ones for a couple of bucks at any of the box stores. Okay you're saying my advice is not worth the two cents??? lol gary

Sa, from the time mine was tiny to about a year ago, it was tied (in a pot lined w/ plastic wrap) to the top of my bromeliad tree. It got decent light from a south window and from some fl. lights but not GREAT light. I would water it with r/o water periodically. I'd pretty well drench it and then ignore it for a good week or two. Often when I would next water, it had become SUPER light from being so dry. It got too big so i de-mounted it from the tree and this past summer it was in my backyard. It hung under an oak tree for awhile and then hung from a post where it could get a bit more light. Currently its hanging from the ceiling in one of my plant areas. In fact, I just posted some pics on the orchid forum and you can see the staghorn in one of them. I kinda feel that its just time that makes them big. It doesn't seem fussy at all and tolerates really bad conditions so I think just wait a bit longer. Maybe someone else has some better tips, or you could try the moss/fern forum.

i rehydrated bromeliads and orchids successfully to get over the initial wilt by floating them in warm water for 30-60 min with a bit of unsulphered molasses like Granma's (1tb per gallon of water) . Staghorn is epiphytic too - so perhaps you can float your wilted strand too? - at least 15-20 min, it can't hurt - just sponge it gently somewhat dry with paper towel afterwords. this is what i found: Large platycerium can be easily divided into smaller plants, and even small "chunks" that include a leaf and a bit of root ball can be potted individually. Make sure new divisions are kept warm and moist until they are growing independently. Don't get discouraged if newly cut divisions take a little time to root. --- the way i see it you don't have much to loose at this point...so try this: desinfect the brown root stub by dipping it for a minute or so in peroxide solution: like a few drops of 3% peroxide per half-cup of water - to kill the rot if it's present. then gently dry it with paper-towel. then lay the fronds flat on a table on slightly dampened paper towel. If you have a little bit of long-fibre sphagnum moss - wet it and squeeze dry and put it losely around that fuzzy root-stub that you still have attached to leaves. do not spray the sphag, just the green leaves and just a little only. the sphag should be just barely misted to remain just barely soft to touch. it has antifungal properties. the sphag should remain very loose around the stub. since it's untidy to keep just loose sphag on the table, you can use one of those strawberry-baskets - just plastic netting or a netted-bag from onions to contain sphag loosely in one place. if you don't have sphag - perhaps you can use spanish moss for the same purpose - to increase humidity around the stub to regrow roots.