Are you using grow lights/shop lights and keeping the seedlings an appropriate distance from the light? That was a problem I had (floppy seedlings) until I learned that they should be a few inches from light.

If you started in mid February, your seedlings should be small. If they are spindly, too warm and not enough light. Tomatoes should be almost big enough, but peppers take a considerably more time.

Suggest you go over to the Growing from Seed forum here and browse through all the how-to FAQs and the many discussions going on there right now about how to do this.

Meanwhile I strongly suggest you stop fertilizing them so that the roots can develop rather than trying to force top growth and cut your watering down substantially. Poor root development is a classic symptom of over-watering.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed forum

Wait until the plants have at least 3 sets (sets, aka pairs or whorls or whatever node pattern they have) of "true" (not the cotyledons, initial "leaves", feeder leaves) leaves to transplant...4-5 if your container or time dictates it.

I wouldn't even bother fertilizing, even a diluted amount, until it shows the first set of true leaves...and like noted above, you don't need to do it a often, especially if you're not over-watering.

The top-heavy leggy seedlings + shallow root system is a recipe for disaster...especially if you haven't hardened them off (slowly acclimating them to outside conditions). Bring your light source closer to the seedlings grown indoors to lessen the legginess.

This post was edited by nc-crn on Tue, Apr 9, 13 at 17:10

Also, add a fan to your setup, it helps develop stiffness in the stems and also gets them not develop windburn as easily when hardening off.

Last year in May, I transplanted my Tomatoes. It is still fairly cool in my climate in May. My Tomatoes I transplanted as a plant looked very sickly and pathetic. I was very close to digging them up, and throwing them out. Then in June some time, they perked right up and started growing nicely. I got 100 Tomatoes from those two plants.

Very interesting info guys. The seed-starting kit I've used mentioned how to plant, water, and when to remove the plastic lid that keeps in some moisture and heat to help the seeds germinate. It never mentions when to move my seedlings outside so I guess that's the bit step I've been missing.

I'm not using any type of additional light source, just what it gets from a window. I'll eliminate the fertilizer and start hardening them off tomorrow. I've got a spot outside that should be pretty good.

I've thought about the fan and I'll keep that in mind for next year. I'll also look into an alternate light source when they're inside.

I'll also check out the link that Dave posted.

Thanks again guys!

--Jonathan

You need shop lights. Windows just don't give enough light to grow strong seedlings. I use a wire shelf unit from target ($39) and hang 2 shop lights (Home Depot) per shelf and keep adjusting them so they are only a couple linches away from the plants. I have this in my basement where it is probably about 60 degrees. I also use diluted seaweed/fish emulsion when they have a set of true leaves. When i get the tomatoes going I add an oscillating fan.
Keski