Need Help with Garden Beds and Patio Deisgn Layout - Pics Incl
newhomeowner2011a
11 years ago
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designoline6
11 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Seeking advice and help with walkway garden.. pics.. long
Comments (8)If you have any plans to put in a more permanent walkway, I'd stick with a few annuals and perennials in the planting area until you decide what you are going to do. Any shrubs or more permanent plantings will get destroyed if you ever do any construction in that area. Usually the hardscape would be done first, plantings later. Spend some time lurking and reading old threads on the Perennials and Shrubs forums, and your regional forum. Also visit New to Gardening to learn some basics about soil, and gardening techniques that will ensure a reasonable level of success with your plantings. Go to the library and take out some books on gardening and design, and visit nurseries in your area to see what plants are available that do well in your climate. Read the tags on the plants, and takes notes. You can look the plants up later on the web to learn more about their characteristics and cultural requirements. Once you have your garden area prepared, experiment and have fun. Annuals will give you a lot of color all summer. Perennials will increase in size and return every year. Ordinarily, I would recommend some shrubs, but if you're going to make changes later to the walk, I'd hold off. Also, you'll need to know how much sun that area gets and what kind of soil you have. It will probably need a lot of amendments due to compaction from construction around the house and the habit builders have of taking away your topsoil and replacing it with crappy subsoil. The area under the deep overhang of the roof will not get any rain on it, so keep that in mind when planning for plants. Until you learn a bit about gardening and the plants you would like to grow, and gain some hands-on experience, your results may be disappointing. As you learn more, your taste may change, so start out slowly and don't try to do everything at once....See MoreNeed help making a patio garden and need a design
Comments (4)The aspect of rearranging a multitude of plants (of unknown quantities) you already have into other parts of the yard would be very complex, and therefore, difficult. It's not probable that you could get much comprehensive help by remote. You definitely have a knack for creating, ambition and some stock to work with. Even though certain aspects of the plan are a little funky looking by professional standards, what you've done nevertheless has charm and a certain homespun appeal that many people enjoy immensely. I don't mean any of that in any negative way. There are lots of lovely things around the world that are created like this. I would like to give you some food for thought as you progress with the project. Essentially, you are creating a functional piece of art. Because the main function is that of being a space that one is able to move through, it is easiest to think of it as a room or series of rooms (as you determine) that just happens to be outdoors. Therefore, it is made primarily of plants, dirt, trees and rocks ... those things that hold up well outdoors. Like inside, the room is made of "floor," "ceiling," "walls," "windows" and "doorways." If you were creating an indoor space, though you might have general ideas about them, you would not begin by dreaming about specific lamps, drapes, tables and chairs. You'd begin by thinking about window and door placements, wall textures and colors, trim and molding, floors and finishes, and how the ceiling will handle light. Later would come objects that go in the room that blend with the room itself: tables, chairs, lamps, rugs etc. For some odd reason, when we are creating outside space, people have the perpetual habit of falling in love with things ... objects (usually plants) that go in the room and start cramming the room full with their "pets" before they give much thought about the and architectural framework of the room itself. Outdoors, a tree or arbor creates a ceiling. A tree's canopy can not only seems like a roof, but also a very tall wall. Woody plants and vines can creates walls of whatever height one wishes. Sometimes they need extra support. Sometimes only trimming. Low growing, spreading plants create floors (as do rocks and earth.) Before thinking about irises, peonies and daffodils, it would be better to forget entirely about all the plants and concentrate on the forms, arrangements, heights and sizes that will define the room itself. You've all ready got a good start with a floor made of rock. Maybe it should be (visually) extended somewhat larger with a low growing, woolly looking mat of vegetation. It looks like you have begun a low wall already to separate the view into the neighbor's yard. Maybe a higher elevation "floor" (of plant material) should transition form the low floor to that wall. There are some good looking, freestanding "columns" (clean tree trunks ... very nice! ... almost palm tree like) to one side of the patio. Maybe each would look good resting on a circular base. You could begin by envisioning these "architectural" features of a plastic, formless material. (I once liked to think of everything being made of bread dough since it can take on any form.) Once the overall forms shape up, one could begin thinking about the specific character that will make up the forms. One might turn a ball of bread dough into a big leaf hydrangea, or a hedge of them. A pizza form that has been rolled out and placed next to the patio might become a bed of wild ginger or vinca minor ... it depends on what you like, what you have, the light and moisture conditions, and what you're willing to put up with. (Some plants have bad habits but they are so beautiful they must be tolerated!) You call the shots. I've gone on enough, but I think you get the general idea. Fall in love with the plants AFTER you know what you need and get those that can fill the bill. Sometimes a hedge can be a single plant material ... or it can be mixture of similar-sized plants, depending on the character that is desired. Usually, plant lovers can find a way to squeeze in -- in a sensible, artistic way -- most of the things they love. But if you don't do the architectural exercise first, you run the risk of creating something with a hodgepodge, cemetery-ish appearance ... with things sitting all over the place. It's good that you recognize the faults of the arbor. If it was at least 2' wider, a foot taller and made of beefier wood -- and painted! -- it would work better. I'll return with a hardscape suggestion when I get more time....See MoreNeed help with overall landscape/layout
Comments (24)Pictures: I can't give you precise instructions without standing right there with you. So try to understand the basic concepts that I'm trying to explain, and then I think you can take pictures that will help us understand the yard better. Let's acknowledge that you have a difficult yard to convey in pictures because there are so many large, obstructive bushes and low-branched trees. If you can get pictures that are "good enough," that will suffice for now. There's a lot of clean-up needed and it will probably include some plant removal. Therefore, this may be a piecemeal process. But it will get much better in the future. The directions correlate to the illustration below. What I'm trying to get you do do is capture AN ENTIRE SECTION of the yard in "one" photo. Obviously, the camera can't do that in one shot, so we'll take several photos and put them together later. In order for that to be possible, it's critical that YOU STAND IN ONE PLACE FOR ALL PHOTOS. You'll simply pivot to take the subsequent photos. (I've asked many people before to stand in one spot for taking photos, but for some reason they insist on returning with photos taken from entirely different positions. I'm sure they think they're helping. But it doesn't help. It makes reassembly of the photos impossible.) Since we read from left to right, it works better to maintain that convention in the photo-taking sequence. Start with the left-most photo and work rightward. The illustration is for working on capturing the RIGHT SIDE YARD. Now that the picture is right-side up, all right/left directions are based on as-viewed-from-the-street. I've placed a yellow oval on the drawing and this is approximately where you should be standing in order to capture the most of the side yard possible. I'm picking that area because it is slightly in front of the face of the house -- we want to capture the ENTIRE side -- and because it is some distance away from the house. It would be hard to reference the side yard space without the house in the background of the picture as the primary reference point. (If we were to stand with the house to our back, it would be much more difficult to figure out how the space relates to the house.) I placed a red dot within the yellow oval thinking this may be the optimum place ... it's even farther away from the house and farther in front of the face than some of the other choices within the yellow oval. BUT, since I'm not there, I wouldn't know if there happens to be a giant bush in that spot. You've got to take the photos from somewhat of a clearing so we can see more than just a bunch of leaves. I'm suggesting, generally, a concept of taking a series of photos that overlap, beginning with the blue triangular area marked "1". The second photo is the brown colored area, the third is the green and the next is the purple. Since I can't actually see in your camera's viewfinder, I don't know how much "scene" you can squeeze into a single picture. If you have a wide-angle lens, maybe this section of the yard can be captured in 3 overlapping shots. With a longer focal length lens, maybe it will require 5 shots. But you can see by the illustration what needs to be captured. Even if one picture turns out to be little more than a mass of foliage, it still needs to be in its proper order in the sequence so that the pictures can be reassembled. Now, since things are a heavily foliated jumble, it might be the case that the entire side of the house can't be seen in this series of shots. Therefore, you may need to move to the blue oval on the far side of the side yard and take the same series of shots from over there. If that's the case, then, you'd find a position over there that is somewhat open, stay in the same spot for all pictures, and snap them from left to right, showing the entire side of the house wall (as much as is able to show up.) Note that the blue oval is somewhat beyond the back house face (like the yellow oval was beyond the front house face.) This helps us see the totality of the side yard space. That took a long time to read it and a longer time to write it, but the fact is that it will take almost no time at all to snap 4 pictures from the same location and 4 more from a different location. It will take you longer to walk there than it will take to take the pictures. Please post those pictures here, preferably in order, and we will probably have a good section of yard that we will understand. Another use of the pictures may be to give you advice for plants to remove or limb up. Your yard is begging for some clean-up!...See MoreCan you help me fill this gap? Pics incl
Comments (12)I cannot tell from your picture exactly what the "monster" shrub is. It is possible it is some kind of arborvitae, there are so many kinds. However, it is too large for the area, and I really think getting some vertical interest (which is what the cone shaped arborvitaes will do for you) will work wonders. I would either move it somewhere else or just get rid of it altogether. I am pretty certain that the one on the far right corner is not an Alberta Spruce. If it were, it's a lovely shrub and you would want three more of that, but that would cost a pretty penny! As far as buying and planting shrubs now. If they are plants that have been growing in a container, there is no reason they can't be planted now. Whenever you plant them, and most especially in the dead of summer, you want them to go into well prepared, amended soil with lots of mulch over them, and a thorough job of watering them at planting time. If you provide these conditions, they shouldn't need rain or water more than once or, at the most, twice a week for the rest of the summer. The good thing about planting them now is they have that much longer to get their roots established before winter. If, however, it is too hot to do a good job of soil preparation, I would encourage you to wait until cooler weather. I have one "on second thought" to share with you. I suggested ever blooming roses for in front of the bay window. You need to watch the light conditions there carefully. Since you are on the northeast side of the house, you may, or may not have enough sun. Roses need direct sunlight a bare minimum of 6 hours a day, and more is better. If they won't get that, there are plenty of other lovely plants that will. :) One more note: When you get ready to plant, use a tape measure. You want to leave one full foot of empty space along the foundation of your house so that you can get back there for maintenance, window washing, etc. AND you want your plants to have enough space to grow into their spots without becoming pruning nightmares. SO, let's say you choose a boxwood that says it will get three feet high by three feet wide. (This would be a Korean Box. Very good shrub here, and probably very good there. ASK.) You would plant the center of the trunk exactly 2 1/2 feet from the foundation wall. (1 foot of empty space, plus half the mature spread of the shrub: 1 1/2 feet, to equal 2 1/2 feet). Then you measure 3 feet over from the center of that shrub to the center of the next box and plant the next one 2 1/2 feet from the wall and 3 feet from the other box. (They spread 3 feet, so they need 3 feet between themselves: 1 1/2 feet for each bush.) If your arborvitae gets 3 feet wide at maturity (Emerald would.), it would get the same spacing as the boxwoods: 1 1/2 feet of spread for the Arborvitae, plus 1 1/2 feet of spread for a boxwood equals 3 feet apart. You know how neat and professional landscaper's plants always look? They measure to get those night straight rows and even spacings. You can do that too! Good luck!...See Moreinkognito
11 years agolast modified: 8 years agonewhomeowner2011a
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