Say where you are and the zone or I might recommend saw palmettos. :-)

Sorry! Eastern MA, zone 6a/5b.

I can't judge from the photo if you'll get enough light to grow arborvitaes there, but it looks questionable. Two plants it seems you shouldn't do without are Oakleaf Hydrangea and bottlebrush buckeye, for outstanding summer interest.

I'll try to take some more pictures when the sun comes out to show the light, but it's definitely pretty deep shade on the yard side once the trees leaf out. d

Love the hydrangea and buckeye suggestions. Thank you. I hadn't seen the buckeye before - it's pretty impressive! So, should I just use a combination of evergreen (rhododendron, holly, yew) and deciduous (hydrangea, buckeye) shrubs that grow to 10-15' or do I need something taller? Are there any on my list that wouldn't work in that much shade?

I don't mind so much seeing the roof of the building behind us, as long as the windows, cars, and pedestrian traffic is screened. But maybe from the design perspective it would be better to have some height?

If arborvitae won't work, the only other conifer I can think of that gets tall and that would work in the shade is hemlock, but there's adelgid in this area (though not on the others in my yard yet) and I don't want to have to spray them all the time. Should I use them anyway? Are there any other options?

Should I keep the existing hemlocks and skinny maples or take them out?

Thanks for your help!!

From the picture, I can't evaluate the light or crowding conditions. As far as removing small maples, keep in mind that they'll provide competition for what you're otherwise trying to grow. In that respect, they may be better off gone, or at least, way limbed up to let light below.

I would definitely want to screen the roof, too, but it doesn't look like you need much height to screen any of the objectionable things ... 10' ought to do it. Given your preferences and objectives, it seems like mixing whatever you wish that will tolerate the conditions is ok. It's not a formal solution. It's just greenery with seasonal floral interest. I would start with some small plants (1 or 3 gallon) and increase the quantity of those that perform the best. You can see what looks good to you. It's good to have some front-to-back depth on screening that is grown in wooded conditions. Usually, such plants grow thinly compared to those grown in the sun, so depth of bed ensures screening.

Thank you both so much for your suggestions! I tried to take some photos to show the light conditions now that the leaves are out. This is in the morning, and there's some sun filtering through, but I can tell you there's almost complete shade from the stone wall at the back to about 15-20 ft. in front of the large maple tree all day. From the picture in the next post, you can see there's shade well into the parking lot as well.

However, I'm really glad to hear you both think 10 ft. should be sufficient height. Yardvaark, you make a good point about competition from the small maples. So, I think we'll take those out, and possibly the smaller of the hemlocks as well. Then, put in a mix of evergreen and deciduous shade-tolerant shrubs/small trees that reach 10-12 ft with staggered layers for depth. I'm also somewhat relieved you said 'it's not a formal solution'. That means I should just relax since I can't really make a mistake!

Lazygardens, I've wondered what the huge rhododendrons people grow around here were - I guess 'rhododendron maximum' is it!

Regarding the fence, it's a good idea. I'm not really a fence person, but if we put in smaller, slower growing plants it's going to take a while to screen with greenery, so the fence may be the best short-term solution. Then we can take our time building up the plantings. Yardvaark, I really like your idea of testing out a few small varieties first to see what does well and then increase from there. Cheaper that way, too!

Let me know if you have any additional comments/suggestions based on the new pics. Thanks again for your help!

{{!gwi}}

Oops, not sure why the picture didn't work.

One more picture from the back (parking lot) looking towards the yard.

If "huge rhododendrons" grow there, that would be a good thing to incorporate in areas with more light.

Many people think that plants grow only slowly, but with supplemental water, fertilizer and some light, you may be surprised how quickly some plants will grow.

One problem is getting tall shrubs started in an area that is potentially filled with the root systems of mature trees. Have you investigated the soil at all? You may need to put your shrubbery quite a distance in front of the trees.

Yardvaark - they really are huge - probably as much as 12-15 ft. I'm expecting at least 5 years to get to 10 ft. If it takes less than that I'll be overjoyed!

hoovb - I'm sure you're right about the root systems. I haven't really checked it yet. You can't tell from the picture, but the large maple in the center is about 15 to 20 ft forward of the skinny maples and hemlocks, which are along the rear property line. I'm hoping I am able to start plantings about 10 ft from the property line, and then plant out to a little in front of the large maple. But we will see how it goes. This may be another advantage to Yardvaark's suggestion of starting with some smaller plants and seeing what works. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks for all the great advice!

Are deer a problem? If so, regular Yew will not be a good choice, as it is a favorite of deer. I'm guessing they are not? Either way, another good deer resistance choice would be Japanese Plum Yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia 'Fastigiata'). Unlike other forms of Yew, the Plum yew is not on the menu for deer, but like other forms they do excellent in Shade.

I would never recommend planting another Canadian Hemlock in the New England area, as they are just being destroyed by wooly adelgia HWA. But... if you are willing to look around, you can get Chinese Hemlock (Tsuga chinensis) and/or Japanese hemlock (Tsuga diversifolia) which both have excellent immunity to HWA, look similiar, and do well in shade. The Japanese hemlock is slower growing though. Sources can be tough to find, but I know that Weston Nurseries in Hopkinton, MA has them this year. Japanese Maples and Evergreens is where I got my Chinese Hemlock, but it looks like they are sold out this year. The Arnold Arboretum might also have Chinese hemlock for sale as well.

Another shade tolerant option would be upright boxwood. Specifically, Buxus sempervirens 'Fastigiata'. Another Shrub that thrives in shade and adds some nice bright color is Aucuba japonica 'Variegata'. It has a similar look to Rhodies, but nice bright yellow specs, additionally, it really loves deep shade, which is rare for an evergreen.

Hi SC77, Wow, thank you for the terrific ideas! Most (actually, all!) of those are things I hadn't heard of, and they all look great.

We've lived here 2 years and haven't seen any deer. I know elsewhere in town it is a problem, but we're right in the town center with a fairly busy street in front and parking lot behind, so I don't think they can make their way in here. Regardless, the plum yew is a great option.

So sad about the native hemlocks. But, I am really glad to hear there are alternatives. It looks like the Japanese species doesn't get too tall, which would be good. I'll have to find time to go to the Arnold Arboretum and check out what they have.

Now my problem is going to be choosing from among so many great options!