Can't help you on the PenSeal (try calling the manufacturer?) but you can mail order a VOC compliant version of Waterlox directly from the manufacturer - link below. A lot of stores that used to carry Waterlox aren't carrying the VOC compliant version because it was hard to get for a while during the switch-over. I must have called twelve or thirteen stores to find it when I was testing finishes for woodwork. Here is a link that might be useful: Waterlox shopping page

From your link describing using the tung oil, I'd go with that. I would stay away from polys at all cost as they are so difficult to repair without redoing the whole thing. I am hoping to do my kitchen floor--don't know what's under the vinyl tiles or the several layers underneath, but the rest of the downstairs is oak--white I presume? I think my trim is red oak--is that possible? My house was built in 1908. I would replace the registers also, but don't go to the expense of the linked site--they seem to only sell ones to fit modern ductwork; check out salvage shops/antique shops...there is one in my town where I've bought a couple registers from their large pile--all the good old cast iron black, some with louvers, some without, but all with varying designs of patterns for the grate. I put in an additional duct to my living room, and absolutely had to have the large register if I ever move furniture to match the one in the open near the dining room doors. Your idea of tung oil has given me another and easier option than sanding insanely and doing smelly chemicals. Thanks!

First off, thank you to all that have posted on this forum. I've learned alot just reading some of the postings but I wanted to ask the pros - so what is the best thing to use on an ipe deck, to restore the original color. Just a little background, I have an ipe deck (multi-level, 800 square feet) that was installed 2 years ago. Paid some painter an insane amount of money to paint, stain, and treat the deck - paint b/c I used cedar for the railing spindles and deck wrap - and it looked great... for about 3 months. Now the deck is grey, seems to be splintering (or whiskering) and I am about ready to do anything to get the deck back to its original color. Any suggesttions? Anyone know of a good deck contractor/painter to use (Long Island area). Any advice, help is much appreciated. Thanks!

Mildew mold on furn is killed w/ bleach in the sun only. Spores land everywhere. Mildew happens. Have used Watco Exterior Finish since 1980's on hundreds of pieces of outdoor furn we've sold. Wood chemists tell me the ingredients are about same as in Cabot Australian Timber Oil; 1) linseed oil, 2) tung oil and 3) a penetrating resin sealer that hardens in the wood. Reoil once a year with a Light Coat, wipe in half hr (this is w/ kiln-dried white oak furniture). Furniture looks really good 19 years later.