Interestingly, year after year in Michigan we get one big fluctuation with high temperatures for a few days in April, usually early April (we get the same thing in early October with first frost killing the tomatoes). It is almost certainly due to the jetstream moving from its winter to its summer positions (the jetstream is usually right over Michigan), and oscillating before settling. It is not necessarily a good thing because two days at 80+ set a lot of things in motion, then it becomes cold again. This year that fluctuation is not forecast until late April at the earliest, and it may not happen at all. There is a silver lining in continuing 40-55 (high) and 25-45 (low).

Seedlings already started: kohlrabi, broccoli raab, Hy.broccoli, parsley, lavender, cilantro, leeks, onions, scallions, some lettuces, male, red and green cabbage,.and celery. Already wintersowed/direct sowed some carrots, radishes and shallots under low tunnels. There are also some lettuces, kohlrabi, and arugula that survived our winter without protection that I went ahead and covered for spring as well as a handful of broccoli plants. I'm not sure if they will head after overwintering but I don't see why not so I'm protecting them as well. Next week ill start the rest of the lettuces and then cauliflower, di cicco broccoli and a few others indoors. Those will all get transplanted out under double. Cover end of Jan/early Feb at which time ill also direct sow beets and spinach and more carrots. I still have a couple frames to construct so I need to get a move on. I'll be starting time, peppers.and eggplants end of Jan also. All my cucurbits ill start in Feb for may transplant. Hopefully all my nightshades can go out in April assuming I got spring stuff in early enough. Peas will also direct sow in feb, which will then hopefully be done in time for may/early June beans. I can't wait for.it to be march! Hope to be getting my first harvests by then!

That is a good shot Beegood. Dutch Growers defines Regina as 2b Konrad. From your pictures last year your season starts up about a week earlier in Edmonton and we frost hard somewhere on the 10th-12th of Sept. So our season ends sooner. The bottom pic is a Pembina Plum. 2nd from the bottom was a 4" plug from the U of S 2 summers ago. If memory serves me correctly it was called Ivanofka plum. Same goes for the hazel nuts except they are one summer old. They were were spendy at 10 dollars ea. though. The pears are John and Thomas from Little Tree Nursery in Martinsville I picked up in the fall. I heeled them in near a shed but couldn't place them permanently last year. The good news is all the plums are blossoming within a few days of each other. Here is the Toka plum I was recommended as a pollinator for the Pembina. I can't believe that the last plant to remain in stasis is my hybrid apricot, also from the U of S. When or if it starts up I may throw it in as well if it is okay with Beegood.

Excellent. Thanks OldDutch! I had made the assumption that it was too late for chilling to do any good (so why bother); glad to hear that even a little may help. :) Regarding the soil... yeah, we live in the midst of an area of farmland (literally, we're rural) known locally as the sure crop district. Even in bad years, most farmers here will get a descent crop (barring total destruction via hail, etc.). That said, you really have to handle it like clay or you're screwed, we've found. It's strange stuff. Extremely alkaline. Eats compost for breakfast, like you never put it on (unless you do so in HUGE quantities at first). It's taking a long time to improve the tilth, but it's coming along... slowly but surly. :) Thanks again!