Test bump.

Well, about the innoculant, I have never used it and always have vigorous pole beans that are abundant producers. But maybe they would have been even better if I had used it?

I planted bush beans 9/sf last year and they seemed to do fine. I plant about 3" apart to allow for space between plants in adjacent squares. I'm planting more beans this year, so I may try a test to see if there's much difference in the production.

I never thin my beans, I plant them at the spacing I want and what few don't germinate, I replant. JMO.

I've never used innoculant before, so I can't help you there.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bean photos (scroll down)

Innoculant is a waste of money. Each species of legume requires a very specific species of Rhizobium bacteria to fix nitrogen from the air on the roots.

Most innoculants are sold as being suitable for peas and garden beans (of which there are many species). These are too general/generic to be of much use.

Just plant your beans and provide a little nitrogen in the first year. After that back off and see how they do in the same soil. You can dig up the roots at the end of the season and look for nodules on the roots (little balls).

If present, the appropriate bacteria are also present.

I agree with the above advise - just say no to the inoculant.

Beans like to be close together. I plant my beans about 3-4 inches apart in every direction and never thin them. Make the blocks about 1'-3' deep so that they are easy to reach. If you can access the block on both sides, 3' is about right.

Kay.

Hi! We plant tons of beans every year on our farm and one year we tried the inoculant - bad year. Beans have been good for us most every year except for the deer, but now we have an electric fence. We do give give them nitrogen and magnesium mixed in as we are planting. Spacing is not critical, the closer the better. If you can give them lots of sun and weed free soil, beans, no matter how close will thrive!

I did not know that innoculants were specific. I have always been told to use it but I think I only used it once on peas and did not notice any difference. My soil is rather average going from a lot of clay to a mix of clay and some soil with a much finer tilth. I grew beans in some sandy soil at a place we have by the river and they did fine there with no extra fertilizer. Won't fertilizers too high in nitrogen cause rampant green growth at the expense of beans? If one were to side-dress with well rotted cow, goat or donkey manure would that be enough? I'm planting a boatload of beans and peas this year and I had a small packet of innoculant left. I'm not doubting the facts I guess I'm just naïve because the innoculant has been recommended to me by the guys I with whom I did business at a farm store and I guess I just trusted their counsel? It's good to know I don't need the innoculant! I learn so much on this site. Thanx!

It's true that for each legume species, there is a species (or a strain) of bacteria that evolved to colonize its roots. Most of the inoculant sold in garden stores is a "combo", a mixture of strains for the most common legumes - including beans & peas. You can buy specific strains for just one vegetable, but only a few companies sell them.

As to their effectiveness... there's not much proof to back the claims. Maybe on first year ground, or in poor soil, they might help. My own experience parallels the opinions already expressed - inoculants are not necessary for beans & peas. I grew rows of beans both with & without inoculant, compared the weight of the dry beans, and found no difference.

Of the several legume species I tested both with- and without inoculant, only cowpeas showed an improvement. I highly recommend treating yardlong beans (which are botanically cowpeas), but the "combos" don't contain the proper strain. You would need the one designed to treat cowpeas.