One idea I would consider if you want to do a variety of garden areas is to move the patio somewhat away from the house, or do the patio at the house but also put seating of some kind in a few other locations in the yard, What we've done is make a lower patio that is shady in summer, and an upper patio that gets more sun all year 'round. This is because we tend to be sun-seeking in spring and fall and that's when we use the sunny patio, but sun-avoiding in summer. There is also a spot in which we can specifically enjoy the morning sun for having coffee outdoors. Not all of this was preplanned, but these are the kinds of considerations that can be used to help make decisions. If you begin by assessing your sun directions and planting trees that will eventually shade certain parts of the yard, you can plan accordingly from there - your seating areas, and what you will look at from each of them, what privacy considerations you want for each of them. Start by just placing lawn chairs at these locations and sitting in them, and thinking it through from that position. KarinL

Claudia, Congrats with your new home! Glad to see you posting again. What do you mean by wet clay? Is the ground actually wet? if the soil is wet, you could plant bog plants and plants that love water and they will do fine. Just mix in a generous amount of cow compost in the clay and mulch, you should be able to plant any part sun bush or perennial plant. Just a thought, I jsut bought Liatris at HD on Saturday. I got 60 little bulbs for 14.99. They are perennial, they spread and are beautiful! Look up Liatris online and see if you like the look. Anyway, for part sun climbing hydrangea would love your yard, and it loves to climb on wood without damaging it. Cannas LOVE wet or moist soil, Bananas Love moist soils, you will have to mound it up when you plant it for drainage, but they are beautiful. Ajunga likes moist soil, any kind. Butterfly bush would do fine with manure, they can be planted in part sun, I would plant in sunnies spot tho. Iris would love your yard, if it gets at least 6 hours of sun. Well, that's all I can think of for now, I hope you have fun planning out your new yard. Congrats again,

Ditto on widening the bed (to give you more room to work and to be in better proportion with the fence), planning/planting for layers, planting in bunches or drifts, soil test (at the very least, pH, which is usually done free while you wait), and building your soil. You might also consider giving the bed edge some gentle curves rather than a straight line. The remaining trees look like some additional pruning is advisable, with some of the lower branches going off at strange angles/directions. If they are Bradford pears, consider replacing them now or in the future - they are weak-branched, prone to splitting and dropping limbs, and are invasive in some regions. While you're at the library or book store for the above-mentioned book, I highly recommend The Living Landscape, Designing for Beauty and Biodiversity in the Home Garden, by Darke & Tallamy. You might also find inspiration in The Layered Garden by David Culp. Another source of inspiration might be a botanical garden in the area. Staff is often pleased to share information about their plantings, too. Consider some of the better-behaved native plants in your region - they are usually best adapted to our environment, requiring less maintenance on your part. Redbud (all sorts of exciting cultivars), fothergilla, oakleaf hydrangea, inkberry holly (tiny rounded evergreen leaves, no sharp points!), coral bells (heuchera - also in many colors), tiarella, solomon's seal (our green native or its European cousin, the variegated, which really lights up the shade), fernleaf bleeding heart (dicentra eximia), are just some in my shady areas. If you have enough sun, baptisia, native honeysuckle (lonicera sempervirens), New England aster. I shouldn't have started :-) The dappled willow impressed me at first, then it become so common I wouldn't have it for free. Daylilies are very adaptable and will get by with about a half day's sun, and also available in an amazing range of colors, sizes, flower forms, and bloom times (early, mid and late). There are some great understory trees and shrubs that will give you color when least expected. Toad lily for fall. Our native witch hazel blooms Oct-Dec, while the Asian varieties Feb-April, depending on variety. Hellebores start blooming in February here in my NJ garden and keep going through daffodil season. Take your time, as suggested above, and try to enjoy the process of exploring the possibilities and planning. Fall and spring are good times to plant, as there is less heat stress on the plant while it is becoming established. Remember that in fall, the sun's heat is waning, but the soil is still warm enough to promote root growth. There are, however, some few plants that are slow to root, so are best transplanted in spring. That being said, I have sometimes had to move plants at the most inappropriate time and they've thrived with good site prep and attention to watering.

You should decide if the brick barbecue is an asset or a deficiency. Sometimes, they are missing parts and if properly fixed could be useful and enjoyable. Given that it's away from the house a bit, it would be useful only if you can take advantage of the campfire/firepit ambiance. A distinct disadvantage to its daytime use is the lack of protection from the sun. You have to figure out if this, with alterations, could be made useful to you. If not, demolish it and return the area to a clean slate. (If covered with a roof or pergola, directly or near, and with some paving underfoot, I could envision it with an old world, getaway, smokehouse feel for larger family gatherings. That wouldn't preclude you from also having a more convenient lounging & barbecue area directly at the back of the house for everyday and smaller gatherings.) There is plenty of space to expand the existing patio if desired. Fortunately, Arizona doesn't have a law that a pergola must be flat. It can be designed to coordinate with your existing roof line. At any rate, the patio will not really be useful until it gets some shade. You'll need to decide if this comes from plants, an architectural structure or a combination of the two. (Are there vines that grow there?) Narrowing down a budget will help guide this decision. I would consider some larger conifer type evergreens for the back, right corner of the yard in order to screen the utility poles and convergence of wires. Other trees, including palms, would be helpful in giving anyone using the back yard the feel that they are protected and sheltered. The small tree at the back of the house seems neglected. You should begin limbing it up with the goal of eventually being able to walk under it as it gets larger.