John, I would suggest avoiding using these types of products. In practice I have found that they have little effect - unless it is a negative effect. It is better to practice good watering habits. I just got done repotting a Jasmine plant that I had repotted last year, inadvertently in a Miracle Grow Moisture Control mix. It was chlorotic. I suspect, from the amount of goo I washed out of the roots, that the mix had settled in shipping, or had been improperly mixed at the factory - maybe it was bagged out of the bottom of the bin or something. At any rate there was clearly an overabundance of "moisture crystals". However, I had also used this MGMC in some containers for garden plants, and they did fine. Tomatoes, in particular, did well in this mix. Well, A tomato, at any rate. They didn't do any better - but they didn't do noticeably worse, either. So while I would not purposefully buy this mix again, I will finish using it up in my outdoor containers this year. But I won't be buying any more of it. I'm a little concerned about what it might do in my compost bin as that gel breaks down. I would not use it in anything that will be in the pot for more than a single growing season, however. Especially avoid using it in a "self-watering" container - another gadget I would recommend avoiding.

If the LLs are newly planted, they will be sensitive to our summer temperatures a lot on Year 1 but the leaves should recover by nightfall or early morning if the soil is moist. If the leaves stay wilted 24/7, give them water if the soil is dry. However, if the soil is not dry and they remain wilted by the next morning, root rot may have set in or vole damage may have happened. To prepare my LL and the other hydrangeas for the daily rounds of 100-degree temps thru September, I set my drip to give 1 to 1.5 gallons of water per watering in the summer, make sure they have 3-4" of organic mulch and I try to keep all hydrangeas shaded by 11am to 12pm. Because drip does not effectively moisten the top 4" of the soil in the summer, I sometimes also water by hand when it has been dry.

I suppose everyone has their own ways, but for the way I do it... First, I wouldn't use 'soil', instead 'seed starter', or germination mix is usually a better choice. Soil is too heavy for consistent results. Besides which, seed starter also contains ingredients with moisture retaining properties. Next, moisten the medium prior to filling the trays/cells. The proper moisture is found with experience, but I like to use a spray bottle to overly moisten, let it soak up as much as it wants, then let it dry out (mixing/loosening it periodically) until it is a consistent wetness, but just beginning to dry. It will then be adequately moist, but also light and fluffy. Gently load it into the cells/trays to the top, then pick the tray up 3" - 4" and drop it on the work bench. That will firm it just enough. The level should drop down about 1/4", and the medium is ready to sow. Sow your seed, then cover with more of the medium. Use a mister to moisten the surface slightly, and place your dome on top. Especially for peppers, place the tray on the heat mat (or warm surface) to keep the temp. of the medium at about 80 F. As soon as you see the sprouts breaking the surface, take it off the heat, and give it good lighting. Take the dome off if it seems too moist, and either fill the trays with 1/2" water (for bottom watering,) or use a mister to keep the surface moist. Try to find a balance for the moisture. Too dry, and the tender seedlings wither. Too wet, and fungi could cause them to die from damping off. A fan can help to control the humidity and moisture, and a mister is an easy, delicate way to keep the soil moist. The dome can help if you have to leave them for an extended time. There are 'wicking' trays which allow for an even, and more controlled bottom watering, but without the wick and reservoir, you'll need to pay good attention to them at these stages. As soon as the seedlings form some 'true leaves' it's time to put them into a soil, or growing medium. At this point, they will need fertilizer of some sort.

It may be a case of soil moisture issues and transplant shock. Our temps have climbed into the mid to upper 80s with plenty of drying winds blowing and making allergy sufferers reach for the meds. This scenario makes the soil dry quickly so try to provide water the night before windy days, make sure they get shade starting around 11am on summer days when the sun is straight on top of us, maintain 3-4" of mulch and check the soil moisture by inserting a finger into the nearby soil to a depth of 4". If the soil feels dry or almost dry then water. You can add about 1 gallon of water per watering but plan to increase that (1.5 gallons per watering) in May when temps normally hit the 90s thru September. The shrubs are not used to being in your garden so the transplant shock makes the leaves droop easily in year one; in future years, the plants will do better but expect some droopiness once we start long strings of daily 100s. New hydrangeas will droop often then. If you see them drooping, use the finger method to test the soil and add maybe 1/2 gallon of water if the soil feels dry or if the wilting episode looks extreme. If the soil feels moist or wet, leave it alone and let it recover on its own by nightfall or by the next morning. I normally use drip irrigation twice a week but, once temps get hot, I water with a hose also/instead. Like I said earlier, the winds we have had lately make the leaves loose moisture faster than the roots can absorb. But as long as the soil is as evenly moist -not wet- as you can make it, the shrub's leaves should look fine in the early daytime hours and all should be well. Meaning, try to prevent periods of dry soil, moist soil and back to dry soil. Do be careful not to over-water as that can start a slippery slide into the world of root rot.Hydrangeas can get root rot if they get too much water and the soil does not drain well. Clay soil in our area is therefore a problem but adding some organic compost helps. If a plant gets root rot, its leaves will appear wilted 24/7, including after you water it. And when watering, water the soil early in the morning hours (5-6am) instead of watering the leaves; this prevents fungal infections on the leaves (powdery mildew for example). I am watering about twice a week now. Consider a different spot for the plants if the area turns out to be too windy. Since almost all of our area has alkaline soil, make plans to amend the soil to prevent iron chlorosis episodes. This is when the leaves turn yellow, except for the leaf veins which remain dark green. In Spring, I usually add whatever I have handy: garden Sulphur, iron sulfate, aluminum sulfate, greensand, iron-chelated liquid compounds. On some years, I also have to add an extra dosage in the Fall. Which hydrangeas did you get? Lowe's usually has Merrit on stock in March-April. Luis