That looks good to me. Your water pressure is (now) evenly distributed among your lines which would be my goal. As you observed, the pressure regulator appears to be doing nothing. I would remove it and proceed with installing your 1/4 inch lines.

MileHigh, I assume you were having troubles with the weep everywhere hose; if so you might want to check out the preformed "soaker hose" which the drip irrigation places sell. This is different than the hoses of the same name at the big box stores which weep over their entire surface. They are solid PE hose with an emitter installed at regular intervals (1' up to 3'). The emitters are pressure compensating, so you can vary the elevation of the hose and still get even coverage. I have found that this type of drip and the T-tape type works much better than the big box weeps everywhere stuff. (you will need a filter and pressure regulator with these emitter hoses) Regardless of what type of emitters/hose, you will need to calculate the flow and pressure of the hose or other water source feeding the system. You need to be sure you can feed the system with the flow it needs at the pressure it requires. Simple math if you are using the drip emitters but for the weep everywhere hoses you probably need a pressure gauge in the system that you can read to figure out how much length your source can support.

lehua, Thanks for your reply - much appreciated. I suppose I should have checked more into the forum archives prior to posting - would have prompted me to first check into my hydraulic specs. Our water does come from a municipal source, which obtains it's supply from local fresh water natural lakes/ponds and reservoirs. It is treated with chlorine and fluoride (1.0 mg/l) and has a moderate hardness of 68 to 84 mg/l. I just did a test by filling a 5 gal bucket from the freeze-proof garden bibb, timed it with my phones' stopwatch - and it took exactly 60 seconds to fill to the brim, which equates to 300 gal/hr. The main vegetable planting area consists of (6) 36"+ wide x 18 ft long beds, each naturally bermed about 6" above the 18" wide pathways - which are freshly covered in straw mulch each season. Each row slopes along its length, approx 6" in 18 ft., or 2.8%. We also have a couple of 42" x 12 ft wood-plank raised beds for strawberries, herbs and smaller rotating crops. An 8' x 5' onion patch, 10' x 4' raspberry patch and a 40' x 3' mixed use bed along the east garden fence - all with about a 1.5% slope. The soil composition is 12" to 18" of very rich humus, with a mix of loam + grey clay in the subsoil layers. I have been layering at least 3" of my own organic compost over each bed twice/season, which I first break down with my shredder/chipper. Water plumes have always spread very well when hose/pail watering in the past. Organic additives, such as bone meal, wood ash, and dried blood are added regularly, with limestone tilled in the Fall, if soil ph tests require it. Concentrated fish emulsion is mixed with water and applied by hand to each plant during the growing season. Due to some early blight occurring on our tomatoe and pepper plants, which was spread I believe from water ground splash, I'm thinking drip irrigation may minimize this from happening. I have not yet purchased the inline filter, 3/4" mains and 1/2" laterals, but have received the 3/4" ball valves and electronic water timer/valve I had ordered. The author of a Utah Co-op Extension article on the prototype PVC system (see link), recommends drilling 1/16" holes, in 2-3 hole clusters, spaced to align with individual plants. My plan was to dedicate each lateral to plants with similar needs, with all lateral and major pipe joints being separable to accommodate seasonal rotation and off-season storage. Since I have no experience with this yet, I was waiting for the time when my indoor grown seedlings are about ready for transplanting, before determining hole spacing. Drilling should be easy enough to do when that time comes by setting up a jig. Sorry for being long-winded - many thanks for your encouragement, and system endorsement . . . I feel less like a pioneer now. Best, Steve Here is a link that might be useful: PDF - Designing a Baasic PVC Home Garden Drip Irrigation System

A slight whining or high-pitched noise coming from the sprinkler valve is a sign of a small leak or slow leak. While this sound is sometimes accompanied by a telltale trickle of water, the leak may appear not in the exterior of the valve but in the valve shutoff. The sound comes from water channeled through a small hole, the way air is channeled through the stops of a whistle. A leak in the sprinkler valve, whether inside the mechanism or on its exterior, means the valve will require replacement. If a sound is present but no water is streaming out of the valve, try tightening the connectors joining the valve with the pipes before servicing. - This is what I read from a Google search. I ended up replacing it after trying the water pressure suggestion above.