polymer sand vs beach sand
16 years ago
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Beach Sand topper dilemma.
Comments (3)Would decomposed granite just get covered by the sand and be a waste? well yes and no - the sand tends to get grinded into the decomposed granite when it is minimal. But when there is a huge sweep of sand that flows over the DG it can be a kind of a waste. DG is expensive in northern calif so I often weigh the cost vs. the function and value. Would gravel be a good choice as the sand would sink through it or would it just get buried? Again, it depends on how much sand flows across the area. On one project where we are right on the beach , the sand sometimes washes up threw the gravel. It is the challenge of beach side living. On the other beach side project we have used gravel effectively but it needs to be top dressed after a year or a big winter storm. Would organic mulch be better as it would eventually amend my "soil" and I could just add layers to the top if it got too muddled with the beach sand after a storm? If so, what kind of mulch? - I'd go with a bark mulch. it will break down over time and add nutient value to the sandy soil. I'm a big fan of the organic mulch that comes from the local resource recovery center. Not only is it free it is a nice dark rich color vs. the orangey color of the fresh redwood and fir bark mix. You might try calling around to see if you have such a resource. We used 50 yards of the stuff just last week on a newly planted seaside job. enclosed is a photo of the nice chocolate color and texture of the mulch. I...See MoreFlagstone patio--mortared vs. gravel/sand?????
Comments (64)I just built a quartzite patio in Reno, NV. I used the new product, polymeric sand and it worked great! I got the sand in 60 lb bags for $20 a bag from Home Depot. My patio is 9X27.5 and I used 5 bags. It looks like regular sand and sweeps into the joints. You then mist it 3-4 times waiting about 10 minutes between each misting. The water activates a weak polymer glue and locks the sand granules in place. We don't have much problems with frost heaves here, but if a stone moves you can pull up the sand in chunks and step on it or use a shovel to get it back to a granular stage, sweep it back in place and re-mist. Although the polymeric sand sets up pretty hard I don't think it would stand up to a leg from a patio chair, etc., so we plan on getting sled style chairs for the patio. It does do well with walking on it and the sand stays put! So far we are very happy with it. I'll let you know how it goes thru the winter. We get very little rain here but we do get snow....See MoreBest sand for sandboxes?
Comments (13)"actually, the best sand to use for a sand box is one that has NO dust or fine crystalline. These are known carcinogenics for children and is the primary reason you don't see sand at any playgrounds anymore. Places like Home Depot and Lowe's and even Toys-r-us carry sand that has been washed, screened and dried and is free of dust so it is the safest for your children to play in. We bought the Quikrete playsand from Lowe's and it has worked great! I wet it down before letting my kids play in it and they will generally play in it for hours! If it's an especially warm day, than I wet it down multiple times/ day. Beach sand is going to have a lot of contaminates in it and Masonry sand is going to have a lot of dust, so I wouldn't recommend either of those." http://www.quikrete.com/PDFs/MSDS-B4-Playsand.pdf educate yourself sunny_wells_comcast_net before telling people to buy products that are just as dangerous and 5x as expensive. If your supper concerned about buying from a sand pit just wash the sand before placing it in your sandbox, and wet down the sand every time they play so the partials don't become air borne. PS even though crystalline silica is dangerous i don't think any kid is going to play long enough to have serious health conditions from it unless you live where its windy all the time, and sand is all around you ex: Sahara Desert......See Moresanding / grinding silgranit (blanco)? anyone?
Comments (3)It is possible that someone knows a lot about cutting with a wet saw (stone porcelain etc) and then doesn't know anything about cutting a wood product. It is possible. rajivsab, in your previous thread, -- Working with Silgranit (Sanding/Grinding) Blanco Anthracite -- over on the kitchens forum, you asked once about how to cut wood. Nobody answered. Here is what you wrote, quoting someone else in your answer: ".... "Many people just notch out the sides of their sink cab." How does that work...? Do you simply place force and it chips off? Please provide advise on tools and procedure. Seems like a delicate operation. Thanks. ...." I think your providing that hypothesis (about squashing wood into shape) is what caused people to decline all response. In general, when working with wood, you cut with a wood-cutting saw blade. In general, when you know nothing or little about a subject, you search for information first before formulating new questions in a forum: then your next batch of questions are a higher level of interaction than just "tell me more about this." So, in your case, you go get basic information about cutting wood. In general, do not provide a possible answer if you really are unsure. Formulate the question more neutrally. I think that in construction in general, one never places forces to change the space of anything. Quite the contrary, one ensures that the pieces parts and components are all sized right, or smaller so that glues adhesives pads membranes buffers gaskets washers spacers lubricants and other thin things can occupy the remaining space and help ensure a tight seal. Sure, you can cut granite or silgranit. But why not Cut the wood if it can give you a mechanical support, a cradle to hold the sink? Making the sink into a different shape means you now have to concern yourself with adequate support to compensate for the sink's new weakness. Over the phone it would be hard to advise specifically on this support. Over the internet also. Keeping the sink the same shape is always preferable when you can instead change the shape of the sink's support structure: that is what a cabinet is. When the sink rim rests on a mechanical support, you discard the "clips" over that portion; by placing the sink weight directly on mechanical support you do not need clips there. Clips are just mechanical support. You place the sink rim on top of the support of the CUT cabinet wall with a pad (neoprene, for example) spreading the weight over surface irregularities. The cut is one you will have made to match the need: the shape of the rim. Cutting wood is done with a cutting tool. A saw is one good cutting tool. Recruit a friend who has cut wood before. Another alternative is to place the sink on the cabinet wall Without Cutting it, and place spacers on the other cabinet walls so that your kitchen counter now will have a level support across its entire area. This results in a counter 1/4" higher. In both alternatives you need clips to support the sink rim on the two sides that do not sit on the cabinet walls. HTH -david Here is a link that might be useful: Working with Silgranit (Sanding / Grinding) ......See MoreRelated Professionals
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