No, citrus can not be wintered in a dark garage. They need the right combination of potting soil, fertilizer, watering, temperature, and light. Many struggle to find that combination. Then there are the pests; aphids, scale, and spider mites can be problems inside and out. They do great in my greenhouse. Pretty easy to grow with only aphids and mites to fight. I had scale at one time but completely eradicated them and things have been pretty easy since. I do have the right spider mite control, organic isn't easy for them. The Fruitnut

They prefer and do best in afternoon shade, Gina1962. An east exposure is best although my roof extends north enough to where I can grow them there too. The cement under the house can leech minerals and make the soil alkaline so plant them a few feet away from the foundation if you decide on that setting. If your soil is alkaline (nearby local nurseries can usually tell you or you can get a soil pH test kit) then you may need to ammend the soil in Spring and perhaps once-twice more to prevent the leaves from turning yellow, except for the leaf veins. If planted under trees, just consult with someone to determine if the tree's root will grow near the surface and compete with the hydrangea's roots. I cannot plant them in the open here because the leaves fry under our rough summer sun but, in the northeast, they can do just fine because the sun is weaker in the summer months. They also do well in full shade where the shade is "bright shade". Macrophyllas, usually called mopheads or lacecaps, will do fine -usually- through Zone 6 but there are a few sensitive ones that are only hardy thru Zone 7 so it pays to look at the plant label or info on web pages to confirm. These come in reblooming and non-reblooming versions. Invisible flower buds develop in July-August and open in the Spring. Then the rebloomers bloom again several more times depending the length of the growing season. Deadheading the blooms of the rebloomers encourages new bloomage faster. Oakleaf hydrangeas (their leaves look like oak leaves) are also hardy but I always mention not to place them where their root will get wet feet. If they do, they can catch root rot and die quickly. Paniculatas and arborescens also do well. They are very, very hardy. Paniculatas tend to produce panicle shaped white blooms and the shrub is hardy to Zone 3 or so. Arborescens produced usually mophead blooms (white or pink aft first) but sometimes a lacecap bloom and is hardy to Zone 4 or so. Luis

Check out Picea omorika 'Pendula Bruns', it's green and blue, and will stay vertical without training, unlike 'The Blues' which originated as side sport on Picea pungens 'Glauca Pendula' that wants to grow at a 45 degree angle, or even horizontal. It will eventually stop growing vertically and exit your 6' width. If you could find a Picea pungens 'Glauca Pendula' that would seemingly be your best option, as it will stay mostly vertical, regardless of training, but it's quite the difficult specimen to find... whereas 'The Blues' can be found at most quality nurseries these days. Keep in mind Picea pungens prefers a very arid environment if you live in a zone 6 that has a lot of humidity such as my NJ zone 6.

Here I am running late with a few suggestions (just what you need--more roses on your list). Frederic Mistral is a wonderful cut flower for bouquets and has an exquisite scent. He is a Romantica from Meilland and a large hybrid tea. FM is a bit on the cold tender side. I think Love Song is the very best lavender out there, but she doesn't have much scent. Angel Face is wonderful unless you have black spot problems. I agree about Evelyn and her glorious scent and look. Diane Evelyn with Sarah Bernhardt peoniesFrederic MistralEvelyn in late November with much darker coloration due to the cold.