how to rabbit proof raised beds
ikea_gw
13 years ago
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homertherat
13 years agoanney
13 years agoRelated Discussions
rabbit proof plants, bulbs anyone...?
Comments (2)We have both rabbits and deer. Sometimes it's hard to say who ate what. Currently they are surprising me by eating the tops from winter onions. They are not supposed to do that but each animal can have individual tastes. Or it could be the voles. I have to cage most of my vegetables and many of my fruits. They especially love eating plum trees and apple trees. That's the deer. Rabbits eat the stems from my young fig trees. In my yard, they don't touch bearded irises, daffodils, anemones, helleborus, or hyancinthoides - bluebell bulbs. I think the rabbits are what ate the grape hyacinths. They eat tulips down to the ground. They usually leave alliums alone but something ate some buds from a few alliums last year. Those were the gigantic type alliums. They left the smaller ornamental alliums alone. Chives and garlic chives have very nice flowers and I plant those too. Along the edges of some raised beds, I have a row of garlic chives and anemones to deter rabbits. I don't know if they help or just make me feel better. Hope that helps. Here is a link that might be useful: rabbit resistant plants...See MoreBuilding Raised Beds Cedar or PT Wood? How Thick?
Comments (18)I thought of using cedar, but when I priced it, it was way too expensive and didn't make sense to do it. And I'm sorry to say, but if you're trying to grow as much food as you can, two 4x4 beds are not very much and I think that is a lot of money for two small beds. I have one long bed 12" high, 11ft long and 4ft wide. I have four beds 12" high, 4ft x 4ft. I made them with Pine because I had some already and didn't have to buy much more. It's actually been about 8 years since we built them and they are ready to be replaced now. Now I want to double the square footage that I can grow in. So I want to build… Two beds 12" high, 16ft long, 4ft wide Six beds 12" high, 6ft long, 4ft wide That doubles my growing space. I don't feel I need deeper beds, because vegetables are annuals and I've read somewhere recently that they don't really need 18" deep beds. 12" is just right for me and I don't mind bending and kneeling. So less wood. I priced what cedar I could find and it was going to cost me over $600. to build those beds. I called 12 lumber yards and only two had cedar and they weren't the dimensions I wanted either. Finally, one lumber yard, said he was steering people to use Eastern Hemlock rough sawn, which is very inexpensive. It is more rot resistant than Pine but less than Cedar. Estimates were 5yrs for Pine, 8-10 years for Hemlock, and 15yrs for Cedar. I priced the Hemlock and it was going to cost me $198. to build the same beds. So, if I built the hemlock and had to replace them in 10 years for another $200. It would still be $200. less than building the cedar beds, and would last me 5yrs longer....See Morehow to protect raised beds from animals and more
Comments (41)Hi, I'm new here. I have been using the square foot gardening method for the most part the last two years. I started out with four 4'x4' raised beds just off the back patio, then the next year, four 3'x8' beds arranged along the back fence where there was more sun. However, like many of you here, between the rabbits and my son's Jack Russell Terrorist (I mean terrier lol) it was a mess. I tried wrapping 3' high rabbit wire around the beds but the bindweed and everything loved to climb it on the outside, and it was too tall for me to reach over, and not very convenient to remove. I found myself not weeding or harvesting as much because it was such a pain, and that was counterproductive. The next year I drove T posts in each corner and wrapped 2' rabbit fencing around each bed so the fencing started at the top of the raised bed. That solved the problem of weeds climbing up the fencing and made it much easier to trim around the beds, but I still had trouble reaching over. Finally, this year I decided to completely fence in a 12'x16'corner of my yard. I came up with a potager-style design with 2' wide beds all around the perimeter, and a 4'x8' bed in the center. There will be an entrance/gate at one end and a bench at the opposite end, and a walkway all the way around the center bed. The rabbit fencing wraps around the entire garden, supported by 2"x2"s in the corners of the outer raised beds. I'm going to hang cattle panels along the inside of my 6' privacy fence, which forms two sides of my potager, and use that for trellising. Eventually I would like to build an arch over the entrance and an arbor over the bench to provide even more trellising opportunities and make it look more attractive. Even though this new layout is not yet complete, it is already working SO much better! The dog can't get in at all, and neither can the rabbits. Once I get the gate installed, access will be easy and convenient. The bench is a nice place to sit with a glass of iced tea and admire my accomplishments lol! I wish I had done this to start with. Here's a picture - its not finished yet, and the gate is not installed yet, but it will give you some idea. I am still using the square foot gardening method, its just in a different configuration. Shelley Here is a link that might be useful:...See MoreStructures/using a carport for a raised garden, rodent proofing
Comments (6)We converted a carport into a small high tunnel. We bought plastic from Menards to cover it. We made roll up sides on it and and a roll up door for the ends. Here are some pictures of the beginning construction. We have grown peas and cucumbers on trellis, tomatoes, egg plant, herbs in it. The carport was given to us so we converted it into a mini greenhouse with a few modifications. We have used it for 4 years now with the same plastic....See Morebejay9_10
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