I've enjoyed this thread. Some of our 2013 hits and misses from first time items were: Hits Mizuna: Comes up quickly from seed, produces abundantly and is a cut and come again veggie. Tokyo Bekana Grew very well here from seed in the spring and fall. We love it raw in salads as an alternative to lettuce. Fingerling potatoes: we grew five varieties and all did well and were DELICIOUS. Did very well at the farmers' market. Zephyr summer squash. These are very delicious and showed good disease resistance and yield. Safari zuchinni. It wasn't a good year for zukes for us, but these kept coming even after the others bit the dust. Red Russian kale. Produced very well. Tasty and tender. Moon and Stars Yellow Fleshed watermelons. We really enjoyed these. Not as sweet as Crimson Sweet, of course, but crispy and delicious. Fails Lemon cucumbers. Produced poorly. They taste fine but not worth the space they take up. Won't plant again. Burgundy okra. The problem with this is that the wildlife couldn't resist it. Deer and groundhogs destroyed it, while hardly bothering the Clemson Spineless. If you can keep the critters away, this would be a good choice. But we won't bother with it again. Creasy Greens (upland cress). This didn't come up at all. Surprising since it grows wild here. We won't bother trying again. Here is a link that might be useful: White Flint Farm

Those are the darkest pipevine swallowtail cats I've ever seen, Linda, and their red things are hard to see! I've never seen any that color. Mine go through a red stage in some of their early instars, but then turn black, except for the red things, can't remember what they're called. I'm sorry you're not getting any rain - 'wish I could send you some of what we're getting! Sherry P.S. I'll redo my caterpillar list here - 1 lone red admiral - the false nettle patch is declining, I think because it's getting totally shaded out. I'm going to start transplanting plants that are in dense shade to other wet but sunny areas nearby. Finding one RA nest is like eating one potato chip - it doesn't usually happen, so a revamping of my nettles should help. 5 or 6 spicebush swallowtails 2 palamedes swallowtails too many to count pipevine swallowtails (plus many chrysalides from this year's crop) 2 American ladies (plus 6 or 7 chrysalides) 1 tiger swallowtail 8 pearl crescents I'll be bringing in at least 2 red-spotted purples when they hatch. I'll look for more eggs tomorrow. Sherry This post was edited by misssherry on Wed, Apr 30, 14 at 19:50

Mike, There are many reasons. The main reason is that different varieties are not just different named versions of the same thing---they have different flavors and other different qualities. I love green beans, but I don't want to eat the same green bean all summer long. I want different flavors and textures. Some varieties do not work well at all for freezing or canning, but others do. So I can or freeze the varieties that can and freeze well, but eat fresh the varieties that don't preserve well. Some of it is a hedge against the vagaries of weather. Different varieties perform differently in various types of weather. With a lot of different varieties, you increase the odds that you'll get great production from at least some of what you plant. I rarely have a year that is a true dud with very poor production. I believe that is partly because I hedge my bets by planting so many different varieties. Different colors of produce are, to me, the spice of life. Why eat only red-fleshed watermelons when they also are available with white, pale yellow, bright yellow, pink, orange and even swirled/mixed colors? If we're having a bowl of melon balls to eat as a light dessert after dinner, why can't it include red, yellow and orange melon balls? Maybe with a cantaloupe or honeydew thrown in? It isn't just about looks of having a wide variety of harvest times, flavors and texture either. As a cancer survivor of many years, the nutritional content of what I grow is very important to me. Remember that different colors of skin, flesh, leaves, etc., come from different phytonutrients, phenols and other compounds and for the best, most well-balanced diet, nutrient-wise, we should try to eat a wide variety of foods in many different natural colors. That is one reason breeders are working to develop blue tomatoes---to help us get more anthocyanins in our diets, for example. Scientists have found that different antioxidant compounds are associated with the phenols and other compounds that produce different colors in produce. So, if you eat a wide range of different colors of produce, you're getting a wider range of natural antioxidants in your diet. I also just really enjoy having a colorful garden. For some reason I cannot explain, it gives me great joy to bring more colors of produce into the house. I am perfectly content to carry a bucket of green podded snap beans to the house. However, when I carry a bucket of mixed green, yellow, purple, pink, red and bi-color beans to the house, I am almost giddy. I feel the same way when I have a bowl of tomatoes on the counter. Red ones are fine. However, a bowl of black, purple, pink, yellow, red, orange and bicolored tomatoes is not just a bowl of tomatoes---it is a celebration of the biodiversity that is found in tomatoes. Maybe for me, that's really what it all comes down to---celebrating the biodiversity that exists in Mother Nature. When I was a kid in the 1960s and 1970s, I knew (or thought I knew) what vegetables looked like---tomatoes were red, eggplant was purple, corn was yellow or (if you grew your own, white), carrots and pumpkins were orange and celery was green. Why were they that way? It wasn't because only those colors of those vegetables existed in nature. It was because long ago the commercial growers, agricultural breeders. marketing folks and others involved in the production of and sale of produce decided that was how it was. After I began growing heirlooms and discovered that vegetables come in many colors never seen in the grocery store, I wanted to grow them all. I think that selectively choosing only certain colors of produce probably doesn't do us any good nutritionally. When I select different varieties, I always have my eye on their DTMs. For example, I don't want to choose bean varieties that all produce is 60 days. I want some that produce in 50, 55, 60, 65, 70 days, etc. Too many green beans at one time can be a problem. Spreading out the harvest over a longer period of time works better for me. As a bonus, when you have kids who might not be big fans of veggies, they can be tempted into trying yellow or red carrots, yellow or orange cherry tomatoes, purple broccoli, pink green beans, etc. It doesn't matter if the kids are your own children, grandchildren, nieces or nephews, the children of friends or whatever....if you can get them to try new veggies or fruit they normally shun because they "don't like vegetables" then you've just done them a favor. With regards to buying seeds of different varieties, I try to carefully research varieties before I buy them. I want to know that people who have tried them before me found them worth growing for some reason--flavor, disease tolerance, heavy production, drought tolerance, etc. I look for varieties known to produce well in hot summer climates and known to tolerate pretty wide swings in temperatures and moisture levels. It is very hard to know what ones to buy. When I first started gardening here, I mostly grew the same varieties I'd grown in Texas 80 miles south of where I now live. That worked out pretty well, so Willhite Seed Company has been my go-to seed supplier because it only carries seeds that do well regionally. With a lot of seed suppliers, you have to know if they are a nationally-oriented retailer or regionally-oriented. With some of the regionally-oriented suppliers, I have found that if there region is very different from ours, their varieties might not do as well here. The more I got into growing heirloom and open-pollinated varieties, the more I have gravitated towards a handful of suppliers whose varieties have repeatedly grown well here: Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, Peaceful Valley Farm Supply, Bountiful Gardens, Victory Seeds and Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds. With Baker Creek, I have to be careful because some of their tomato varieties haven't done well for me. It is the same with Tomatofest. I avoid the big retailers who have seed racks in all the stores. Why? Because their seeds are chosen because they will grown well in the majority of the USA. Well, Oklahoma's weather is not necessarily like the weather in the majority of the country, so hybrids developed to do well in the USA at large may not do well here in our hot, dry, miserable little niche. I hope this answers your question, and we can discuss it further if you have more questions or comments. One last comment, and I sure this will not surprise you....when we collect eggs from our free-range chickens, we don't just bring white eggs into the house. Over the course of the year, we will bring in eggs that are white, light brown, dark brown, brown with darker brown speckles, olive green and pale blue. Biodiversity exists in the world of chickens almost as much as it exists in the garden. You'll never find a carton filled with only white eggs in my fridge! : ) Dawn

Mike, Most beefsteak types are late to set fruit and to mature fruit. Since yours are from volunteer seedlings, you have no idea what is normal for them if you don't remember what variety they are, but it sounds like they are setting fruit late and, thus, it ripens late. Too much horse poop also could mean they are getting too much nitrogen which makes the plants stay vegetative for a long time before they flower and set fruit. If you want fruit earlier, your best bet is to start out with purchased transplants and to choose varieties that mature more quickly than the average beefsteak type. You could plant Early Girl, Bush Early Girl or Better Bush and get fairly early fruit...a couple of months after you put 6-8 week old transplants into the ground. Jetsetter or JetStar would give you fruit a couple of weeks later than those, and most standard hybrids that produce red, roundish tomatoes would give you tomatoes 75-80 days after the transplants are put into the ground. Many beefsteak types, although they produce big, luscious tomatoes, do not produce fruit well in heat and they have DTMs of 80-90 days or more so they always are going to be fairly late. It may just be that in your climate, you still won't get many ripe fruit until fall. It depends on how early you can transplant tomato plants into the ground there. When's your average last freeze date? One problem is that tomato plants mostly stop setting fruit once daytime highs are above 92 and nighttime lows are in the 70s. You have to get your plants into the ground early enough that they set fruit before that happens. They won't start setting many fruit again until the temperatures cool down. That is an issue we face a lot here in OK. Cherry tomatoes or the varieties that produce smallish slicer or salad types like Jaune Flammee' or Fourth of July will set fruit more or less all summer, except in the hottest weather, so they might be a good variety for you. I like Early Girl because not only does she set fruit early, but unlike many other early types that shut down after producing early, Early Girl will go right on setting fruit almost all summer long. Some years it still is setting fruit for me in August when it is ridiculously hot here. Hope this helps, Dawn