I am not sure where you are getting your info from but it is not precisely correct. "In general, fertilizers formulated for flowering and fruiting plants would contain amounts of nitrogen less than or equal to the amounts of phosphorus (i.e. 10-10-10 or 5-10-15) This is because phosphorus encourages flowering and fruiting. Too much nitrogen will stimulate leafy green growth at the expense of flowers and fruit production. (emphasis mine) Also, the recommendations are made for granular fertilizer formulations. These will generally supply nutrients to the plants for about 6-8 weeks. During periods of frequent rainfall or frequent irrigation, the nutrients can be leached out of the soil and fertilizer may need to be reapplied." "A common recommendation for vegetables is to apply 1 pound of a 10-10-10 fertilizer or 2 pounds of a 5-10-5 (or 5-10-10) fertilizer per 100 feet of row. The first number is the percentage by weight of nitrogen, the second the percentage by weight of phosphorus and the third number is the percentage by weight of potassium in the fertilizer product. Thus, 100 pounds of a 5-10-10 fertilizer contains 5 pounds of nitrogen, 10 pounds of phosphorus and 10 pounds of potassium. As already mentioned, applying nutrients not needed can cause problems with the vegetables you are growing. When an excess amount of nitrogen is applied to fruit crops such as tomatoes and squash, it is common to have all vines and no fruit. With corn, missing a nitrogen fertilizer application as the corn starts to tassel can result in poor ear production. When excessive amounts of nitrogen are applied to root crops such as turnip, carrot and parsnips, you may end up with many leaves and small roots." (emphasis mine) Both of these statements come directly form extension service publications, which were initially established to assist home gardeners. The same information will be contained in virtually any other vegetable growing resource. It is a widely accepted and common horticultural convention

Thanks for the responses, everyone. I'll have to check out my nearest feed store. As an aside on that, do any of you have a strong preference of alfalfa pellets, soybean meal or cotton meal? I guess if nothing else I'll see what's available and go from there. As for my soil, the soil in general around here isn't good. Before putting down new sod in my backyard this spring I did till in a number of yards of compost. While my yard looks ok, the color and growth are uneven. I'd like to give things a little boost. I do mulch mow my lawn.

Miracle Grow makes a 3 month, slow release fertilizer called Shake n' Feed, Rose and Bloom, 10-18-9 that you can pick up at Lowe's in a 4.5# can for about $13.00. This will be my first year giving it a try. One application now, and a second one in July should do it for my short growing season. Looks like the right procedure in my zone 5/6 garden. In my case a late fall application of a generous feeding of composted pigeon manure (from my loft), feeds my roses from spring through to summer. They don't need any spring fertilization because of the manure. Then I plan to put down the Miracle Grow in early July to bring them through the rest of the season. In years past I gave liquid feedings of a bloom booster type formula every two weeks from early July until the end of September. The one time application in July of Shake n' Feed will be done instead. My judgment, such as it is, leads me to expect good results from the switch.

I also have great soil, dig an appropriately enriched planting hole for new clems and therefore do not fertilize newly planted ones, just like I do not fertilize any other newly planted plants of any type. Typically, the stress of planting and the need to get established negates the need for any fertilizer at this time. I would certainly fertilize next season and Rose Tone is a perfectly decent fertilizer to use on clematis.