Hi Adam and everyone, Hmm. So it was not just me having little success with Minnow. Someone had problem with his Thalia earlier this year. I forgot where he got it from. Sun Disc/Sundisc didn't live long for me either. Just too crowded in my garden. Craigford is a mid season bloomer. Much earlier than Geranium. Looks almost like Geranium. Smells good too. re Leucojum. LOL. Amanda is right. Way too many leaves. Stay green longer than narcissi too. :-P But I love them. Planted only 25 the first year. Loved it so much I added 100 the next year. A mistake, because they multiply like rabbits. :-) I suggest that you plant no more than 25-30 and quite far apart, say 2' to give them room to increase. I like mine right in front of the border between Alchemilla mollis so I can admire its delicate beauty and Alchemilla can hide the Leucojum later in the season. Since it is white, it goes well with everything. I have clay soil. I learned that large size narcissi don't mind it one bit, but miniatures don't like it at all. I planted a couple hundred of N. bulbocodium on my lawn that had not really been cultivated hoping to get a drift of it. Didn't work. Only one bloomed then totally disappeared. Nell's reading suggestion is good. My soil is heavy clay. I have amended it over the years. In fact, I add leaves in the planting hole as I go. Here is what I actually do when I plant blulbs: Dig a deep hole, place a handfull of leaves and a pinch of bone meal at the bottom- a bit of soil-large bulb-a bit of soil & bone meal-a handful of leaves-a bit of soil with bone meal-minor or small bulb-soil-leaves-soil-another bulb-soil-leaves and a bit of soil. I call it composting in situ. LOL. My own invention. Works like charm. My garden beds is quite loamy now. Still rather heavy, though. I may plant 2 or 3 bulbs in one hole, depending on what I have. When I have mulch and/or compost I dump the whole thing on top of the beds whenever I clean them up.

Thanks to all who responded. The mediterranean bells have been spoken for but still up for trade are the 3 varieties of daffodils, as the offers I got I already had, or the items were not hardy in my zone. Please see my original wish list in the original post here, or at this point, I would also trade 3 bulbs of one variety for a single fan of a named iris. Anyone? Sue

Usually, it's approached the other way around - you plant the bulbs around the existing perennials :-) As the bulbs begin to fade in late spring, the foliage of the emerging perennials hides the unsightliness while the bulb foliage ripens and dries. If you want the spring bulbs to perennialize (return) well, you need to plant them in an area that doesn't get excessive summer irrigation. And of course with excellent drainage, which virtually ALL bulbs require. So that may make planting alongside hydrangeas problematic. Some great perennials to use to disguise the ripening bulb foliage are daylilies, oriental poppies and nepeta (cat mint) - all produce either large leaves or an abundance of foliage to hide the bulbs and will tolerate quite dry summer conditions. But there are various other perennials that will work also - just pick your perennials, plant and then arrange the bulbs around these plants in groups or clusters.

The 6 week rule is generally the rule I tend to keep in mind in other areas where I am waiting for brownout or at least the minimum time I can cut the foliage out. Granted the crocus bulb is so small....I'm sure it will be fine cutting them, since I have cut other bulbs while in the green. Mine are planted in flower beds so I just leave brown out naturally since they arean't in my way of other plantings. I gave the lawn a wake up cut the other day. Let me see how long it will get if I leave it alone for a month and a half to decide......never have done the crocus field cause I know I am generally out before then cutting the turf. And MyBrownThumb made a good point which I wasn't even looking at - the height of Cut , may not even affect the foliage to some degree