rhizo: Just in case you or any one else might be interested in the recipes that I was given for getting rid of spider mites, here is the list I was given: �Soap & Water - Mix a dilute solution of non anti-bacterial dish soap and water, and spray (fine mist) the leaves of your plant, particularly the underside where the mites like to live. May require multiple applications depending on how well you can cover each individual leaf of the plant. Make sure to rinse off the leaves with plain water 20 minutes after spraying in order to prevent the soap from clogging up the stomata on the leaves, which will stunt plant growth if not cared for. �Soap & Water Plus Version 1 - Gather 1/4 cup baking soda, 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 2 drops dish detergent & 1/4 teaspoon Epsom salt. Take one cup of hot water to dissolve Epsom salts and pour into a clean 2 liter container with the rest of the ingredients. Add water to fill to 48 ounces (a 2 liter bottle will be 3/4 full) and shake well. Put into a spray bottle and cover your soil/medium with plastic. With the lights off, mist the plant all over concentrating on the underside of leaves. Wait 20 minutes and spray off with clean fresh water, shaking as much water off the plant as you can. Solution is alkaline and rinsing is important in order to remove mites and eggs, and to prevent the solution from burning the plant leaves. Test on a small portion of the plant and wait 24 hours to observe before dousing the whole thing. If you see plant damage, dilute with more plain water and test again. �Soap & Water Plus Version 2 - Gather 1/2 cup baking soda, 1 cup vinegar, 3 tablespoons lemon juice, 2 drops dish soap, mix and dilute with plain water to 40 fluid ounces. Use in the same manner as Version 1. Shown to work both indoor and out, with success on spider mites, thrips, aphids, clover mites, grass gnats and mosquitoes. �Soap & Water Variations - Since all plants will have varying degrees of sensitivity to these sprays, you can try to create your own by mixing water with a small amount of dish soap, as well as garlic, cinnamon, clove oil and lemon juice. �Rubbing Alcohol - This poisonous liquid can kill mites and evaporate relatively quickly in order to reduce harm to plants. Varying degrees of success have been reported with solutions ranging from 1:3 (light) to 1:1 (strong) ratios of rubbing alcohol to water. �Predatory Mites - These mites do not feed on plants but on other mites. Predatory mites can be mail-ordered from a horticultural warehouse or purchased online from gardening vendors. Three of the most common mites used to kill and control spider mites include Phytoseiulus persimilis, Metaseiulus occidentalis, and Phytoseiulus longpipes. The Phytoseiulus persimilis variety is nice because these guys cannibalizes on themselves after eating the problem mites, thereby reducing their own population naturally after they've finished their work. Phytoseiulus longpipes can stand higher temperatures, so if your grow space is above 89�F, you should try to find this variety. �Miticides - When all else has failed, miticides will be one of the most effective forms of spider mite treatment. You should generally try not to use these more than necessary, as they are considerably more toxic than all of the above treatments, and can also cause resistant strains of mites if used repeatedly over time on the same population of mites. Pyrethrins are natural organic compounds that provide potent insecticidal activity. While pyrethrins are slightly toxic, they are not very dangerous to humans and have been used as an organic crop dusting agent in agricultural farming as well as indoor agriculture for some time. You can also find them in some shampoos designed to remove lice/ticks from humans and pets. Riptide 5.0% Pyrethrin is a common solution that works well. Hope these may help others, Sheila

you used a systemic... and expect it to work in 10 days ...??? you need some patience .... research.. or call bayer.. and ask how long it takes to move through the whole plant .... and become effective .... i figure.. not being properly hardened off.. putting them outside will kill them ... in my z5 .... why are they indoors?? .... next year... if the bugs don't drive you insane this year ... use the systemic.. about one month prior to bringing them in the house... so that they come in the house clean .... prevention works a whole lot better than cure .... if they will fit in the shower .... and you have a hose end sprayer ... ... you might be able to give them a good hard shower on the undersides... to wash them off .. i might go as far as bagging the pot so as to not over-saturate the soil .. the systemic will take care of whats in the pot ... BTW .. did you drench the medium .. or just spray on the leaves .... i know that bugs in the house can be maddening.. been there... dealt with that .... but please... take great care in over using chemicals in the house ... good luck ken

those bugs are the worst. I had a severe case of indoor aphids not too long ago. Tried all kinds of mixes.. I finall asked for advice on these forums, and the best thing that worked was a simple water, hand soap (mild soap, no dish washing detergents), and isopropyl alcohol mix. below is a link to the thread... http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/pepper/msg0115061527817.html?26756 no real measurements.. just a lot of water to enough soap for a mild foam, and enough alcohol so that you can smell its presence. Sprayed over night every ~3 days until i couldn't find any bugs. sprayed on top and underneath the leaves. Still have spotted the occaisional aphid, so i spray once a week now.. thinking i'm make this a regular treatment. Good Luck -H

Called leaf tip burn, cause is too much nitrogen Pot up the plant with fresh potting soil and don't fertilise for a couple months.