Newbie with 15 yr. old F. benjamina var. in water....

17 years ago

My healthy 15 year old variegated Ficus benjamina cutting is growing in water. I would like to try transfering it to soil with the idea of turning it into a bonsai experiment. Is there a safe way to do this? Should I add soil gradually so that the roots will acclimate to the change in environment? Is this a good idea or might it be pretty challenging? The cutting is app. 15 inches long with a lot of roots.

Thanks!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (5)

lucy
17 years ago
Hi, what do you mean by a bonsai experiment? Plants that have been growing in water generally have weaker roots than those in soil, so doing a switch might be a bit iffy, though if it survives a few wks, should be ok. The type of soil will matter... how much do you know about bonsai (from personal experience) etc.? Benjamina are not the best subjects BTW, microcarpa varieties are better.
wobur
Original Author
17 years ago
By "experiment" I meant something I could practice with...
I know it is not the best choice of subject...but I have it and it's age gives it some character. I know that the roots are different, though, when growing in water and I would hate to take a chance on losing it after 15 years. I thought if I started replacing the evaporated water with potting soil or perlite they might adapt, but I am hoping for some confirmation that this could work.

I have read several books on bonsai and only have one five year old dwarf pomegrate that I have done a little work on. I am definately new to bonsai and need to keep reading.

Thanks for your help, Lucy. My standard poodle's name is Lucy. :-)
Related Discussions
One and 7 yr blueberry growth with pictures
Q
Comments (50)
Nooba: The AS isn't 2.5 teaspoons per week per plant if that's what you're thinking. Put that on a plant and it will be dead. You mix 1 teaspoon per gallon of water and apply enough each week to wet the media. Then in between apply plain water. You could instead use an organic fertilizer if your media pH is low enough. The AS lowers pH and it can go too low if you aren't careful. I've also used a complete fertilizer both water soluable and controlled release. That includes all the other elements. All work but don't use all at once at full strength. If you use only pine bark and peat then a complete fertilizer might help. Probably not essential. Make sure the fertilizer is flushed out at least once a week so salts don't build up and burn the plant.
...See More
Question about newbies
Q
Comments (151)
Welcome to GW, ruvin!! May I be the first to congratulate you on your wise decision to join us. Y'know, we're all a little 'nuts', and some more than others, depending on how much we appreciate 'dirt therapy'. You'll soon learn who the real 'whacko's' are - there's a bunch of us on here, and some with a better sense of humor than others, so don't be offended as we 'jerk chains' ocassionally...I'm learning it just "goes with the territory. We agree to disagree, and everybody's welcome to express their own opinion. My advice? Provide lots of information when posting a question, and read your submission a couple of times before you click the "Submit" button. Had a guy tell me the other day, that he lost respect for me when I said that shoveling poop to make compost, was good therapy. Oh well...You find out who your friends are. Hope you'll tell us more about yourself by posting some info on your GW Member Profile, and what your favorite kinds of 'therapy' are. There's no limits imposed - reckon you saw the link to 'peter peppers'? And that's just for 'starters'... Robert
...See More
Organic Monthly Schedule for Organic Newbie
Q
Comments (22)
WindMountain, you can use basically the same schedule for Zone 5 KBG. The CGM application would occur in early April (52F-58F average soil temp). Also, the last soybean meal application would be moved to mid October. Many people can reduce the amount of grains used after the first year of an organic program. It depends on the amount of organic material in your soil, the depth of your topsoil, and your microbe activity level. You can try reducing the amount of SBM by a few pounds per 1,000 sq ft each year of your organic program but don't apply less than 10 lbs per 1,000 sq ft. If your lawn begins to loose its color between applications, you'll know that you need more grain than you applied. Simply adjust your next application. Regarding IBDU, other forum members had great success with urea 46-0-0 so I experimented with it instead of IBDU. I applied the urea in early November (after top growth stopped but before dormancy) and my lawn stayed dark green all winter. At this point, I'm planning to continue the late application of urea for at least two more years. Good Luck! -Deerslayer
...See More
Newbie. Hardy Passionflowers? (USDA z8)
Q
Comments (13)
>>For some reason, I mistakenly believed the Seattle-area winters were milder than they apparently are Most people think the other way around--that it must be about as cold as northern Maine because of the latitude. The mountain ranges block most of the coldest interior weather, and the water offshore is warmed by the Japan current. My lows are probably higher than yours BUT...of longer duration! You probably get frosty nights followed by warmish days. We can get a week and a half of freezing weather here. The real problem tho is that the peak of our rainy season is late autumn early winter, meaning that a lot of plants have tissues that are saturated with water when the cold hits. I did have a look at Mr. Irvine's website. He's got descriptions of a lot of the newer hybrids, which is how I found it when I googled their names. You're right; the climate here is close enough to that of the UK that anything that does there does well here, and vice versa, with a few exceptions. My climate is slightly warmer but also slightly less equable, and the rainfall here is very seasonal, like a cooler version of a Mediterranean climate. I read your bio. Fruit and nut trees, eh? Well, I live in the city but I have a good-sized lot as city lots go, and I have squeezed in a mini-orchard. I'd love to grow nuts, too, but those are usually big trees, except for the Hazelnut/Filbert. It would be fun to grow a Gevuina--Chilean substitute for Macadamia nuts (same family, but a hardier Chilean version)--but I can't find any cultivars selected for big nuts and the default is hardly as big as a cherry pit. My fruits are Peaches, a Nectarine, an Apricot, a sweet Cherry, Strawberries (including a wild native, F. chilensis), Raspberries, Blackberries (including "Marionberries"), Black Currents, Gooseberries, and Arctic Beauty type Kiwis (they're better than the fuzzy kiwis, which also grow here). I technically have a "Pineapple Guava" (Feijoa sellowiana aka Acca sellowiana) but it got a bad case of Phythophthora last year and might not live much longer. Ugni molinae ("Strawberry Guavas" aka "Chilean Guavas") also got the Phyto and will need to be replaced. I think Passionfruits are probably a dream up here, but we'll see what I can come up with. P. carulea produces its fruits with abandon but they don't have enough pulp to bother with. Yes, it's too bad about the Tacsonias because I've heard they have the tastiest fruits. Judging from the posts I take it that a lot of the contributors here are amateur lepidoterists (sp?). I'm too far north for those kinds of butterflies; all we get here are common ones like Swallowtails, Angel Zephyrwings, and Cosmopolitans. Hmmm...I followed one link to another link and discovered we have another common interest. Pleased to "virtually meet" you.
...See More
gnome_in_pa
17 years ago
Wobur,

Just curious, do I understand correctly that you have kept this plant in water for 15 years? What is the volume of roots? What is the size of the container? Have you ever root pruned it? I may have an idea to ease the transition.

Acquire two plastic containers, one that fits inside the other. Drill/poke holes in the smaller container. Put the smaller one inside the larger and then put your plant into the inner pot and refill with water. Now you can begin to gradually add a gritty bonsai mix. After the roots are covered you can begin to let the water evaporate slowly until the transition is complete. Finally remove the inner pot from the outer.

If you have ever root pruned this plant there may be an advantage in doing so again before you begin this process. In this way you will be starting out with fresh roots.

I have never been in this situation before but I seem to remember reading about a process similar to this.

Norm
bonsai_audge
17 years ago
I'm not too sure if you should be so concerned about the transition from growing in water to growing in soil. So much so, that is, to have such a lengthy transition phase. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you could probably just plant it into soil directly. As Lucy said, water-grown cuttings have weaker roots, so the main concern would be keeping the roots intact as opposed to the change in growing mediums.

-Audric
wobur
Original Author
17 years ago
Hi Gnome,

Yes, I just stuck some cuttings in water 15 years ago. I believe Ficus b. will live in water indefinately? It spent most it's life in a 1 pint ceramic vase and I transferred it to a 2 pint glass pitcher with some rocks in it about a year ago. I haven't ever root pruned it, but that sounds like a good idea. I am also going to try your two container suggestion.

Of course it may transplant well directly in to soil, Audric, I just want to maximize my chances for success.

Thanks for the help!

Newbie with 15 yr. old F. benjamina var. in water....

Comments (5)

lucy

wobur
Original Author

Related Discussions

gnome_in_pa

bonsai_audge

wobur
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Newbie with 15 yr. old F. benjamina var. in water....

Comments (5)

lucy

woburOriginal Author

Related Discussions

gnome_in_pa

bonsai_audge

woburOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

wobur
Original Author

wobur
Original Author