i think the short answer is no .... as i presume you have no grafting ability.. nor any understock hanging around ... and the odds are low that they will root .. without perfect timing and a greenhouse with perfect variables .... i dont know off hand.. but whatever small odds there might be in rooting.. the process most likely does NOT involve old wood after winter ... and if my guess is wrong.. i will defer and stand corrected ... in the alternative.. stick a couple in a small pot.. with damp media.. and cover it with a one gallon baggie.. and put it in the shade somewhere.. and check back in sept ... who knows.. weirder things have happened .... ken

Your basement was likely too warm, encouraging the early emergence from dormancy. Temps should remain around 45F or lower (but above freezing) to maintain dormancy. If you keep the trees indoor at the current heat, you will need to provide some light but it would be preferable to lower the temperature if possible. Light is not a factor if the trees remain in full dormancy (no budding of foliage) and that requires cold. And I agree that once they have begun to emerge from dormancy, they need to remain in a protected environment until safe to plant outside.

When was the tree planted? And how much sun is it in? Do you know the cultivar name? The questions regarding sun and cultivar of JM can have a bearing on how well that particular type retains leaf color - some red leafed forms lose redness in strong sun: others will lose redness in much shade. But It all depends on type :-) FYI - red foliage is only one of many colors JM's come in - many are green, some more of a gold and a bunch more have leaves that include numerous colors or shading. And all varieties go though a series of leaf color depending on season.......they are not just red!! The wilted leaves could be a concern. They could be an early indication of a root rot. Or it could reflect some damage to that particular branch/stem. I would trim off behind the wilted portions with sterilized pruners (sterilize between every cut!) and wait to see if it will releaf. I would also trim off the black stem sticking up through the center - it is dead. And unless this is a very dwarf form - which it doesn't appear to be from appearance - it is planted far too close to the side of the house. Even dwarfs should be planted at least 5' away from any structures - they may not get particularly tall but virtually all JM's get wide. Also, in the future you may want to post questions like this in the Maples forum. This forum gets very little traffic and the Maples forum is frequented by a number of very knowledgeable JM aficionados :-)

Thanks for the info, I thought it was strange to see this on the same plant in two different locations after a cool moist spring so far. As that had me thinking something other than traditional burn vs something with the overwintering o the fall harvest. But has HM4E mentioned I found something that said plants may do this after it warms up after a cool moist period. Still surprised to see this on a native selected cultivar that is to supposed to be resistant to this even if it is a new planting. Couple that with the fact there are much more sensitive plants (new plantings as well) in the area without issue. Wonder what these trees are going to do with a full summer ahead of them. Time will only tell! Thanks for the responses.