Dear Lucy: Can't tell you how much I appreciate your interest with these questions. Yes, prune in late fall/early winter. In NYC that can be difficult to determine, because temp's. can be very warmish until the beginning of January, and then they can suddenly take a nose dive until March. Your instructions imply that pruning is OK after trees go into dormancy, .... correct? Size of tree will roughly be, give or take a few inches, almost the same size as the basic framework of the tree after the initial trunk-chop, and bending up one of the side branches to form a new, narrower "trunk" section, and some new "branches" to fill out the basic design. This will be trained in the "BUNJIN/LITERATI" style, so, the basic framework will be very stark, and will only consist of the main trunk: 28" high, then, one of the existing major side branches will be trained to form a continuation of the trunkline, and then, a new apex and some side branches. I plan on planting this tree into a large tub, or a training bed so that the tree could recover from the major surgery/wiring quickly, and to ultimately put out some new branch growth to fill out the existing branches. I don't want, or need, branches to sprout out from, or along the tall, branchless, trunk bottom. This section of the tree will remain branchless for this design, however, I do want to encourage new growth on the already existing branches, and needle bundles. The only major pruning this tree will get, is really, the trunk-chop. The rest of the "tree" is basically there, ... it just has to be wired, bent, and trained into the "Bunjin" style. The main reason I picked out this tree, is that, most of what I will be training has already grown. I'll have a tall, tapering trunk, secondary trunk, and, major branches, to complete the basic design of the final tree. Sort of an "instant" bonsai. I'm 58 years old, so, I need most things to be "instant"!!! The mechanics of how to form this tree were not my problem, but WHEN to do the major work was not clear to me. Wish I could show you some photos, and/or sketches of this tree, and the design that I had in mind, but, sorry to admit, I'm not at all, computer "savy". Perhaps, if, and when, I work on this tree, I might be able to post some before and after pictures ... with the help of my friends. Thanks again for all your interest, and for your helpful suggestions. Cordially yours, Frank DV

Select just 3 or 4 of all the branches and leaders, and train them down so they spread out, and prune off all the others. If you like where the lower ones are already, just prune out all the tall spindly ones. Personally I'd rather get rid of those spindly ones and keep the ones that have the most leaves on them. Then 3 or 4 times per year, continue to prune out any new leaders or branches that shade the center of the tree. Search YouTube for Dave Wilson Nurseries and you'll find dozens of videos that show exactly how to do this. There's really no right or wrong way to prune. Or should I say, the right way to do it is the way YOU want it. If you want an open center, then prune to maintain an open center. Simple as that, really.

Hi T, I received some interesting info from Enerson.. He thinks it could be something that he has been searching for a name for his tree as well for several years, I friend had some trees but he passed and he thinks my bloom that was labeled IR is maybe one of his. He calls it Emerson's Beauty. somme have said they think it is Via Verde (dewaine mentioned that one too!) Thanks to everyone.. If i find the name, it could be the same as yours.. looks at the star in yours too. that is whar Emerson said about mine. Does your have a fragrance? Very Interesting.. Thanks T bothe are rooting.. I guess the tag is coming off of the IR LOL... George, I knew that it wasnt an Intense rainbow.. we had been tring to id this beauty.. I waited for three years for it to bloom. Surprise!!! LOL Take care, Laura

For deer, I think you need to use either fencing or tree tubes (5' tall either way). If you are talking 40+ trees, tubes may be your best bet. Tubes are more of a "backyard" solution IMO, and they do give you "spindly" initial growth that takes a while to correct itself. If I want to fence a smaller number of trees in key areas, I buy the 8' deer fence rolls you can find at Home Depot or on Amazon, and fold them over to 5'. Then plant four tomato stakes around the tree and zip-tie the fencing to it. Even though the fencing is very thin and you could push through it without too much force, deer do not test it in my experience. And I get 5 or 6 visitors every night after dusk. They are more likely to bowl over a tree protected by a tube than the fenced ones.