I have not done anything with the ground where it will go other than check it for level. I will need to do a good bit of work to get it level. I plan on building the greenhouse in my garage. Today I bought a pair of 4.50X9" wheels with tires mounted on them I plan on designing the base so that it will be really easy to add or remove the wheels. The wheels will go on one end and the other end will be made to hook on to so my little John Deer diesel that I have can just pick up the one end and the other end will roll on the wheels. This design will allow me to build it inside near my tools and out of the weather. This will work great for me but if you don't have a tractor with hydraulic lift and big enough to pull it this idea would not be worth the effort. Where I want to put the greenhouse the zoning board would not allow it unless it is consider as a portable building. Not likely that I will move it once I have it in the location that I want but if I have it designed where I can install wheels in a few minutes then they can not argue that it is not a portable building.

Marcie, your question came at a very fortuetous time.. I just today finished installing screens on my Clearspan Prostar 12x24 Ghouse. I too was baffled on how to do so until I visited my local LOWE"S store. They have this porch creening "system" that I found fits the bill just fine. it is a plastic "profile" about inch and a half wide with two channels to hold the screening and the spline. The instructions in the link below shows an installer using wood screws to attattch to a porch BUT I had very good luck using selftapping sheet metal screws (#10-3/4") to attach the system to the aluminum frame of my intake vent( which is aluminum ) the system also includes cap strips of assorted colors to cover the screws. System also works best with the .175 inch screen spline. Here is a link that might be useful: porch screening how to at Lowes

Harbor Freight did not suggest this. Lets just say that Harbor Freights Tech support was, um Harbor Freight... I have to admit it was nice, they Cross shipped me new ones, which performed the same as the old ones. I found an overseas manufacturer of similar "budget vents", I think they were called Thermofor, who was very helpfull, and gave me a suggestion. I unscrewed the endcap that has the adjustment screw, and press the plunger till the seal almost comes out, then the oil will start to leak if you press softly on the plunger (If I pressed hard the seal comes all the way out, and you get a big mess ;) then close the whole thing and test. THrough trial and error, I now have all five of my HF openers opening between 65 and 75 degrees. Gato, I am not sure why mine did not work, and yours did, I am only 1300 feet higher than you, but I had a Total of ten from HF (The first five and the second five). Even at 38 degrees they were open five inches under load before I modified them ;) I would not recomend that anyone else try this, because I am sure it voids the warranty. (I tried it on just one first, then got bolder and tried the rest. I did spill all the oil out of one, and I replaced the oil with Cooking oil, even this one is now working ;) so I guess I will have to wait and see if opening them is gonna cause any long term ill effects.

Thanks for posting the pics, seeing the construction helps a lot. You've got some great ideas. The weather is supposed to take a drastic turn on Wednesday -- even snow predicted, so I decided to put off my HFG purchase and building until next year. Good thing is I'll have more time to compile and memorize that list of needed modifications. I see you have three roof vent openers visible -- can you choose which sections of roof should pop open, or is that predetermined? I assume they provide some kind of hinge assembly, for the fixed end of the vent -- do you need to drill any holes in the roof framing to mount them, or do you find pre-drilled holes provided? Ouch! On those spikes on the Lemon. I've sometimes snipped them off to prevent myself from being impaled. Dee