OMG! The reading of this thread was funny and full of good advice. I too have wondered the same thing about grout versus using a linoleum without any seam issues. MONGOCT, you said it! THANKS!!!! Well said!!! My handicapped sister will wait too long after her adult diaper is already wet, thus making a rather large flow hit the floor. She lives with mother and her young adult son. My older brother is replacing all the floors and has mentioned ceramic tile on her bedroom floor. That's why the search that landed me here. For a puddle, large puddle that might have been there for several hours (get my drift), easier clean up and less porous; linoleum might be better than grout, right? Please offer suggestions, thanks so much!!!

Sandy Slade, I am interested in your project as a Marmoleum owner whose dog's bowl sat on a carpet square on our linoleum. We did not know that as he was drinking, at the end of his life, he often also peed on the square of carpet. His urine was so dilute that it never smelled. So the carpet square remained damp. After his death, we picked up the square and learned about the wetness. It had actually caused the linoleum to mold. It smelled pretty bad and discolored the flooring. I was able to make the smell go away over time, but the stain remains. This is real linoleum - the natural product made of jute, wood dust, cork, pigment and linseed oil. Not vinyl flooring, which is often called linoleum by the general population, but is actually plastic and other things. I had a luxury sheet vinyl applied to our bathroom floor in our last house. It was thick and did not bend well. We had leftovers and they were rolled up and put into the basement. It became brittle in just a few years, or the weight of the thick roll flattened it down upon itself and it cracked and split because it was bending, not staying in a roll when it fell or was set on its side instead if sitting on end. I could not imagine it going around the corners of a shower, so there would have to be seams there. My solid surface shower has seams at the corners, but it also came with sealant and corner cove molding to cover the seams. I believe that Swanstone and or Corian solid surface showers have these corner moldings available. These might be helpful for your experiment with a vinyl shower (I really do not think you meant real linoleum, but are planning to use vinyl).

"Who's dissing linoleum?! Someone alert house vixen!" A belated chuckle, AtHomeDad! Lmarks, I'm one of the big lino fans around here...I don't think I've heard of a residential customer regretting his/her choice in the more than two years I've been lurking and posting. Speaking of two years...that's about how long we've had our kitchen sheet lino. It's Armstrong's Marmorette in Cream, bought at a discount flooring warehouse place that has a mostly commercial customer base, and it does not get babied one whit. We have a mutt of a kitchen (e.g. not a period reno) and lino is our little black dress--it goes with all the elements. Additionally, it's easy on the joints, bare feet-friendly, antistatic, hypoallergenic and just plain fun. Now, I had to *seriously* restrain myself from going with a vibrant shade, but there are so many fantastic neutrals that it wasn't too much of a hardship. Even though I have one of the lightest shades out there, it doesn't have that dirty/grimy look my various light/white vinyls always seemed to have. [It helps that one of my "swirl" colors is a medium brown, of course!] In short, I'd definitely consider lino for your place. If your budget allows, installers can do amazing things with contrasting insets/borders (ours is just the one color). I'll link to photos, but I swear lino is rather bland looking in 2-D. [Event the manufacturer sites don't do this product justice unless we're talking about the close-ups.] Best of luck in your search. Here is a link that might be useful: Vix's House o' Lino Luv

I found this on https://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/113602 Removing Linoleum Adhesive From FloorsProcedure code:965001SSource:Ohj - Shirley Maxwell & James C. Massey, 9/30/92Division:FinishesSection:Resilient FlooringLast Modified:08/02/2016 REMOVING LINOLEUM ADHESIVE FROM FLOORS PART 1---GENERAL 1.01 SUMMARY This procedure includes guidance on removing the mastic adhesive left behind when linoleum flooring has been removed. Linoleum flooring was very popular from 1863 to 1974. It was used historically as an original floor treatment in some GSA buildings. Linoleum's chief ingredient was linseed oil, pressed from flax seed, which became a tough, elastic material when exposed to air. The process essentially consisted of mixing linseed oil and gum with ground cork or wood flour, and pressing it onto burlap or canvas. It was then glued down to concrete or wood floors using a mastic cement. See "General Project Guidelines" for general project guidelines to be used along with this procedureThese guidelines cover the following sections: Historic Structures Precautions Submittals Quality Assurance Delivery, Storage and Handling Project/Site Conditions Sequencing and Scheduling General Protection (Surface and Surrounding) These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing this procedure and should be followed along with recommendations from the Regional Historic Preservation Officer (RHPO). PART 2---PRODUCTS 2.01 MATERIALS Clean, potable water Vinegar Citrus degreasing solvent such as "Limo Sol", or approved equal. Dry ice Chemical solvent such as isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, xylol, lacquer thinner, or paint stripper. 2.02 EQUIPMENT Heat lamp or hot-air gun Putty knife or scraper PART 3---EXECUTION 3.01 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION NOTE: A waterproof glue is usually applied at the edges and seams of the linoleum; the center of the felt layers is usually attached with a water soluble paste. Soak the mastic area in hot water for 20-60 minutes or until soft.\ If this is not effective, try adding vinegar or high-strength citrus degreasing solvent to the water and then soak for 20-60 minutes until soft. If mastic still will not soften, try applying heat to the surface using a lamp or hot-air gun. -OR- Try freezing the mastic with dry ice to break the bond with the substrate. If no other methods are effective in softening the mastic, test a chemical solvent on the area. NOTE: Be sure to test in an inconspicuous area to determine appropriate chemicals and strengths before proceeding with cleaning. Scrape away the softened mastic using a putty knife or garden edger. END OF SECTION interesting................