MY back is degenerated. We have Mannington stone look laminate installed over "hush step" pad which is about 1/4" thick. Ours cleans up with water, and nothing sticks to it so I don't have to spend a lot of time cleaning it. Nice on the feets and knees and back.

You need to watch for putting too much of the design in the actual contract. You'll be bound to that decision which could end up being a problem if you later change your mind. On the other hand, if you're exactly positive then it could be a good thing. I hired an architect first (or a KD could do the same) who specified high-level what was needed, for purposes of a quote. That included preliminary decisions around appliances, just for pricing purposes (they weren't what we picked in the end.) The estimate came in based on that document. I then attached my initial spec in as an Appendix, then had some wording talking about how to negotiate changes to the preliminary scope. To me things like where to put electrical wall switches, etc. shouldn't go in without some proviso saying you're free to make final determinations later. Do you want to be bound now to the decision you make in these cases before you start the work? It's important to work though changes in scope and impact on cost. Unless your design is really complete or unless you've done this before a few times, it's unlikely your final price will be what you're quoted now unless they come in with a fixed bid (which I'd argue isn't in your best interest unless you have no ability at all to go beyond your set price limit). If your planned interaction with the GC will be minimal (e.g. you won't be in the building or need to rely on specs to communicate decisions) then I'd put the specificity in specs and refer to the spec documents. Permitting, code compliance, etc. are all very good things to have in the contract -- for me they were drawn up in my architect (or KD) initial drawing / spec. Payment plan is also important (at what milestones do you release portions of payment). Also, I'd include the prime / sub contractor relationship (or say that all payments go only to the prime) and ensure that you'll have lien waivers to protect you in the future. This post was edited by calumin on Mon, Jun 24, 13 at 16:10

If you've not done so already, try Dawn dish soap. I've used it for lots of stains and it works wonders for many. I'd apply it straight, lightly scrub it in with a brush, and let it sit for awhile. Not sure what kind of soap you used. Did you try a laundry soap? Maybe something like Tide with bleach? Concrete and stone are porous so you will have to rinse it off a lot and blot the cleaner/water up. If that doesn't work, head to the nearest hardware store for a concrete stain remover.

I would NOT put anything dark on the floor of a room that already heats up due to sun exposure. A dark floor will only make the room HOTTER. Imagine a hot room with black flooring...wow! That's going to get several degrees hotter than it is now. BTW: are you LOOKING to keep the room 'hot'? Or were you hoping for a room that will be cooler than it is now? What is the purpose of the room? Is it for planks and nothing else? Is it a sitting room where you want to feel comfortable while sitting and enjoying the view?