I'm going to have to say fir. Based on the first pic I could have also gone with white pine, but the pic with it stained is the giveaway. I wouldn't recommend staining it without conditioner or sealer, or its going to look more or less like the last pic, IOW awful. IMO. Unless you like the zebra look. Casey

I would have unfinished oak flooring installed, random widths if possible, and then work with the installers to create a stain color on site that you like. I am not fond of really red looking floors, and would probably go lighter than your cabinets, but be careful not to go toward orange.

Site finished hardwoods are the gold standard. Using a lower grade in multiple widths will allow some savings...but not as much as you think. The concern I have would be the substrate. Is it concrete slab or is it wood joist? Hardwood over concrete is a bit trickier as it takes a LOT of technical knowledge to get it to work as a glue down install. If this is over concrete then the engineered hardwood (that's what it is called) is a better option because most of these can be floated. Traditionally the engineered hardwoods have beveled edges (the valleys between the planks) to ensure a nicer look when installed (they are not sanded like site finished which means the edges can have issues 'lining up' which makes the bevel a benefit to the installer). I prefer a lighter hardwood but your inspiration photo has a medium reddish brown finish/stain used. It creates a very rich look. I would not go any darker than the inspiration photos. And remember: a lower grade wood with multiple widths (such as your inspiration photo) will look a snick more rustic/organic than a higher grade floor with uniform width. A bit more about your substrate will help us figure out what is *better for your situation...and PLEASE tell me you are using a professional wood flooring installer and not the GC's 'guy' who does framing, drywall AND floors.

As Patricia points out, a white oak stained to a colour you like is a really good option. Traditionally bathrooms are allowed to be 'stand alone' design elements. Yes it is nice to be coordinated but it isn't entirely necessary. One thing I will caution you about re: carpet to hardwood is this: Carpets hide the WORST subfloors in the world. Builders LOVE working with carpet because it hides every 'builder's sin' you can think of. Because of the horrible subfloors you will need to prepare yourself for 'sticker shock'. Subfloor preparation costs will be a factor in your budget. I tell my clients to budget $2-$4 per square foot for subfloor costs when removing carpet and laying hardwood. What does that mean? It means you need to work BACKWARDS from your TOTAL money available for the job (the price you have to stick to once all the bills are paid and the furniture is put back). An example of this is: 1000sf of flooring = $12,000 budget. This sounds simple until you realize your subfloor prep is going to eat $2K - $4K of that. Labour for installation of the wood = $2-$4/sf (depending on what you purchase and what your location is re: economy). That means another $2500 - $4000 is going to 'work'. This leaves you with a maximum amount of $4000 for the wood itself. That means you have a product budget of $4/sf. This scenario is 'worst case scenario' but it does exist. Please make sure your flooring professional (not a GC) offers you a quote once the carpet has been removed (removal and disposal of carpet can be $1/sf....just saying). A subfloor quote is never accurate. It is always a 'range' like I've given you. I don't want to frighten you...but you will want to be aware of the hidden costs. If your flooring pro does NOT offer a quote for subfloor prep you will want to do one of two things: 1. Ask WHY there is no subfloor prep quoted (many are afraid to add this because they lose business when homeowners aren't aware of these added costs), or 2. Find another pro who will offer a more complete project quote. Labout