@brianrye I chose a 4 x 12 subway tile for our backsplash....kept it simple. Still needing pulls and/or knobs on cabinets and glass in the upper cabinets in the background. Not sure what glass to do AND not sure if I want pulls or knobs on my upper cabinets!!! Definitely doing pulls on lowers. What do you prefer? As for beams, I am trying to recall the color. I am pretty sure that Sherwin WIlliams matched the color of Benjamin Moore Arborcoat in Oxford Brown...I think!!! I would need to find the can. What I can tell you is that the painters put wood conditioner on a portion of the beam but it brought out the pink in the wood...ick! Seemed we had our success when we just sanded VERY thoroughly and stained with an oil-based stain....not water based, not modified oil!!! I can't stress that enough! Then finished it with a low sheen, water-based poly. Hope that helps!

*Note that for the blue bathroom, we plan to put washer/dryer where the bathtub is, a standing shower where the toilet is, and a new toilet/sink vanity where the current blue sink is.

The current beam is too narrow and has to be wrapped. The fan base hangs out at least and inch on each side. As far as wrapping it with a certain type of wood, it’s hard to find 16’ boards and I didn’t want to mess with seaming together multiple boards. That said, our local options are pine, Douglas fir, and cedar. We thought the grain on Douglas fir looked nice. I mainly wanted to know if staining the wood dark would be a good compliment to light colored floor. I know some people try to match the floor but I wasn’t sure I wanted to do that.

This ceiling may be attached directly to the rafters in which case there is little space between the paneling and the roof panels for mold to grow. An alternative is a scissor truss that leaves more space between the ceiling and the roof panels, but is still unlikely to pose a mold problem. For one thing the scissor truss should have venting in a gable end. Either way once the roof was replaced the leak should have ended. No more water no mold growth. Your ceiling looks to have a natural finish (no stain) so should be cleanable. It's not a simple job, but it is DIY doable. It does require some supplies and equipment. You will need: oxalic acid from a hardware store; plastic bucket; plastic or wood stir stick; sponges; a spray bottle; vinegar; stainless steel scrubber sponge; an 8 foot or taller ladder (depending on the height of the ridge) or scaffolding; plastic drop cloths; goggles, gloves, mask, old clothing. Oxalic acid is fairly mild but is still caustic, so wear old clothing that covers your skin. Protect your eyes, face and hands. Protect your flooring, counters, etc with plastic drop cloths. Open windows and use a fan to keep fresh air moving into the area. Take a break if you feel light headed. Mix the oxalic acid per the manufacturer's instructions. Do not use metal containers or utensils. Climb the ladder, dip the sponge into the acid and apply it evenly to the stain. Let the acid sit on the stain for the manufacturer's recommended time. Use a clean sponge and plain water to wipe the acid off the wood. If the stain has disappeared, mix 1 part vinegar to 2 parts water in a spray bottle and spritz the ceiling to neutralize the acid. Allow to air dry. Should the stain still be noticeable repeat the process until satisfied. Once the stain is gone and the wood is completely dry, you should lightly buff the area with a stainless steel scrubber sponge. This should remove any trace of the process and smooth the wood surface. If you want this to be a simple job, use a stain-block primer and paint.