Okay. Update on removing countertop(s). We took the first (of 2) countertops off. Abbisgram, you were correct, and there were only a few screws attaching the top. All came out easily except one which was impossible to get to without disassembling the whole cabinet, so we got out the sawzall and took care of that one. Decided for several reasons not to special order countertops. We bought a sheet of 3/4" plywood (4x8), had it cut in half lengthwise, and that will do all the new countertops. Got the first one on and will need to put the tiles and edging on. Regarding the comment from the guy at Lowes: He was correct in the sense that the cabinet was very flimsy; however, it didn't 'fall apart'. The front (where the doors are attached) is pretty standard, however the sides of the cabinet are 1/8" (at most) luan, and there is no back piece at all, just a 1x2 strip fastened to the bottom of the (old) countertop, then screwed to the wall. Thankfully, the shelf inside the cabinet seemed to help keep it all together til we got the new top on it. Once the new plywood was on though, it is as sturdy as it was before ... lol. Not sure if I mentioned that this is not our full-time home, it's a mobile home that we purchased in a resort town, so we are not there to work on it every day. Hoping to go back next week and remove/replace the 2nd countertop, then cover them. Bottom line is that it wasn't nearly as scary as the Lowe's guy made it sound. And thanks, abbisgram, for the encouragement. :) As a side note, the finished countertops will end up costing under $100 for approx. 13-14 feet of countertops. I'm not the best at taking pictures, but will try to post some when we finish. This post was edited by danandcarol on Sat, Sep 27, 14 at 22:44

I definitely don't want wood, but thanks for the suggestion. I'm a little bummed tonight because I went to buy a sample of the tile backplash I liked, but the shade of the current batch has more beige brown in it and I liked the charcoal greys that were more prominent. I was too delayed in buying it! Anyway, I did some looking and decided that Corian is not an option in a darker color. Didn't like it. Can't use laminate because of the undermount sink. Lab counters don't sound like a great fit. I think they might be too dark also. Here's my options I think: 1)Honed Granite: if I want to risk the staining issues. No scratching or heat worries right? Perfect color choice. 2)Quartz: risk of chemical stains, risk of heat damage from griddles, slow cookers. No scratches, perfect color choice. 3)Stainless: No staining, heat damage, and scratches only add to the look. Not a perfect color choice. 4)Soapstone: Great color, not staining, no heat damage. Chips easily? It would appear that stainless is a great option for the durability but I really want a tile backsplash. I liked the look of marble mosaic because the pattern was small and from a distance, it would look uniform. I want to look somewhat industrial but not 100%. My floor tile looks like a rusty metal. In the daylight, depending on the angle, it is very reflective, like an old mirror. Without daylight, it has the copper/bronze color more. It is the most awesome tile!! But, I want some warmth. I will have tongue and groove ceiling painted to match the cabs. So would stainless counters be too much metallic? Would they work with a darker tile backsplash. I also like a 1x2 multicolor slate backsplash or something like these: http://www.missionstonetile.com/products/17-Tabarka/tabarka-med-10 Here's my faucet and sink too: How do these compare to each other in price. I have no idea. We supposedly are able to get less expensive AB granite here because it is quarried locally.

This discrepancy should have been caught when the countertop guys templated the countertop. Are your walls that messed up, or is it because of a flawed cabinet installation? Regardless, a 1/2" gap is ridiculous. You can have a new top properly fitted. Bingo, problem solved. Is there a backsplash to be installed? That can hide a gap, with the exception of the gap at the end of the countertop. Depends on if that edge will be visible or not. Everything else is a compromise of sorts in that you can reduce the gap in the back but you overhang in front. You can slide it back but then your cabinet overhang at the front of the cabinets will be skewed. You can scribe the countertop as is, slide the entire thing back 1/2" to close the gap on the right. That'll give you even reveal on the front overhang, but it'll be 1/2" less front cabinet overhang than you have now. Or you can do a fraction of that 1/2". Slide it back 1/4" for a 1/4" gap on the back left, and lose 1/4" of overhang at the front of the cabinets. You can notch the drywall on the back right wall and slide the top back. Same effect as the previous recommendation, but you're notching the drywall instead of scribing the countertop. Another alternative is to use mud to float out the back wall. Essentially you're making the back wall "thicker" to bring the wall forward to meet the countertop. It'd have to be done in several steps, and you'd have to feather the half-inch thickness down over the run of the wall. But that also depends on windows on the wall and how the existing window trim will be affected. There are fixes and there are band-aid repairs. Mongo

yes, and they should be different. White quartz for the bar sounds great! you didn't say what you'd be doing to the wall. eliminate the 'curb' GFI for a blender outlet, etc. I'd tile all the way to the ceiling, do some glass shelves (with lighting to enhance glassware, etc.) stainless tray, ice bucket, etc. Beautiful kitchen...