Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA's photo

Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: ROSES in UK/Europe.. 2024.. Spring/Summer
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Fire, Houzz goes back at least into the 1990's. If my memory serves me well, there was a sale of the original forum which was administered by a fellow who went by the name, 'Spider,' (I went by the forum name,'Shovelprone,' then). It was sold to Houzz and has been under its jurisdiction for about 20 or so years, I recon. If I am wrong, please correct me.

Marlorena, as much as I loved Bolero, a rarity being short and large flowered for a short rose, fragrant and white bloomed, it was eliminated as I revamped all the roses in my bed over to black spot proof/resistant roses so that I would no longer have to spray a fungicide. Bolero got the boot. Bolero also had weak necks in my garden, a trait I have trouble abiding.

Quietness will get some black spot on its very lowest, oldest leaves in September when the growing season is winding down. This minimal amount of black spot does not weaken the bush nor inhibit its following year's performance.

Moses

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Fire zone 8, north London, UK

@showa_omori Is the yellow pic Ghislaine? x

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showa_omori

Sorry @Fire I should have named them.

First one is Fragrant Delight, next is Boscobel, the yellow is Goldfinch (parent of Ghislaine isn’t it?), and lastly Royal Jubilee / Desdemona / Gertrude Jekyll / Deep Secret.

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Can you help judge iffy growth - I'm not objective about RRD anymore
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Cynthia, Pillar Extraordinaire of the Roses Forum, how my heart goes out to you. I want to say the right thing that would give you relief, if not freedom from the RRD dilemma you have so bravely faced. What is staring me in the face is that in spite of the valiant irradication you undertook, there is no guarantee that RRD will no rear its ugly head in your garden again.

All you can do is be vigilant, but please train your mind to not obsess... just go gently and relaxed with flow of growing our marvelous love of growing roses. Take it easy, stand back and peacefully let things unfold, good or bad, because along with the good, bad will surely follow.

We are at the front line in the battle against RRD, an enemy so wickedly sly in its destructive behavior to seem almost to become a personal foe. Don't let RRD overwhelm you. Try to detach yourself emotionally from the situation, relax, do what has to be done on a day by day basis and place yourself above the circumstances.

🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹

I think it is too soon to tell if the stems you photographed for us are RRD infected. I would isolate the suspected bushes, give all the roses a regimen of a good miticide, and unwind your thoughts, taking things as they come, going with the flow. There are things beyond our control that we should relax and let God intervene, and see what happens next.

Moses

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stillanntn6b

Something more to learn about roses:

when a cane emerges from another cane, there are lots of new buds close to the point of emergence. Often they are so small, you won't notice them. As the cane matures, some of them will just be overgrown by bark. One or two might grow. When you see this happening, you will see the buds not just on the upwards facing side, but all around that base.

Farther out on the cane, the buds are different in their distribution. A single bud has two much smaller backup.s Loose the big one, and a second will grow (unless a spreading canker took the first) Loose the first two, and there is a third. Sometimes two will grow. BUT when RRD takes control of the growth, each of those three may have three more and so on. The worst I ever saw was in the Royal Botanical Garden in Burlington Ontario where a short vigorously growing Floribunda had up two twenty (yes, I counted them) buds breaking from a single site, not just once but all up and down several canes.


On kinky canes, it's more wavy and that's because one side of the cane is growing faster than the other. When first infected the virus moves down rather than around or up.


Also, watch your prickles. Right now they look good in your photos.


Right now, relax, but keep vigilant.


Ann

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Rosefolly

I agree with the general consensus. They look normal, but keep ane eye on them.

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Home Depot getting serious about good offerings?
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Got my Bliss the other day. They were comparable in size to the ones posted. Oh Happy Day is due in next week. It throws lots of split blooms, but is still a nice looking, black spot resistant rose. It's an ADR winner, so that means a lot. First Crush also threw lots of split blooms....I think it has fallen out of popularity, possibly for this very reason. Will keep the bare roots as cold as possible to hold back candle making since I will not plant out in ground until early May or thereabout.

Moses

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Jena Ithaca, NY 6a/6b

I know what you mean about Oh Happy Day—it wouldn’t be my first choice of rose, but it’s beautiful, and at $13 for a healthy bareroot? Including shipping?! The house/land I bought last year has no gardens, so it’s wonderful to be able to build them up with some inexpensive options from HD as well as some beloved choices from High Country, DA, and rogue’s valley.

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Jena,

I'm in Pittsburgh, right in an old city neighborhood of postage stamp back yards ( mine is 16'x18' total of growing space!), technically zone 6b, but if any plant of any kind is not spot on hardy to zone 5a it limps along or just dies outright within no time at all. Butterfly Bush, Buddleia davidii varieties, are a perfect example. The short varieties are annuals here and the big boys are case by case, mostly goners.

BTW, the Michelangelo are really nice looking. They look like they are grafted?

Moses

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Desperation! Please help.
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Pocket Gophers inhabit Georgia. Males are 6", females, 5", including tails. Sandy soil is their habitat. Voles and Gophers are residents of Georgia.

Moses

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Artist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA

Dear all,

At this point I am completely adrift, no longer knowing what I am doing. Some updates:

I repotted LOS shown above to rescue her, as Sheila instructed. She was still in good shape overall, just chomped at the roots and is now trying to grow back in a 5 gal pot, protected perched on my deck.



I also pulled out Munstead Wood because it was clearly not thriving, not growing, stunted, as shown in picture below. Barely any leaves growing.


Interestingly enough, this one was NOT munched, but still mysteriously not growing. At this point, I can only blame the fierce competition with the tree roots in the area. That rose bed will probably never do OK (except somehow the Drifts), not as long as that tall oak is there.


I am soaking it too and will replant in a large pot for the long term. After all DA-s do well in pots and my Olivia Rose has been one of my best performers in a pot. In fact, so far I have done way better with roses in pots than in the ground. I guess whatever ground I have, it's not good.



I also went to the remaining forest area surrounding our property and saw Savannah lying in the leaves where I had ditched her. I had thrown it away over a week ago but it had rained. After the discussion here it dawned on me that it may still be barely alive and I could maybe try to save her. I picked her up, brought her back and soaked her too. When I cut a stem, the inner part is still white fresh with a touch of green, so maybe there's hope.

This will be the great Save Savannah operation. Maybe a miracle will happen and she will eventually come back.



On an other mysterious note, I have a Double Pink Knock Out at the mailbox where there is no competition with any tree...and that rose too is failing to grow. Stunted despite adding manure, fertilizing, watering...the W9Y. I have NO idea what is going on at this point.

I am optimistic about LoS, not so much about Savannah.

Munstead needs to find a home in a large pot and live there on my deck.


Thank you all for any other tips on how to recoup these beauties and stimulate maximum root growth this year. No expectations of bloom of course, just recovery of the plant. Maybe roses for me are meant to grow in pots after all, or at least as long as we live on this property with impossible clay, tons of tree roots and weird creatures underground.

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Sheila z8a Rogue Valley OR

I would bet on Savannah making it too, Artist. That is pretty much what happened to me with Alnwick rose when I found it tipped over and rootless I threw it into the grass and only later realized it needed the ICU. It came back beautifully.

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Hedge roses for small front lawn - please?
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Garden Mist

Hi Feiy, Your roses are all so beautiful. For my garden, I think your ice cap would be a perfect choice for me. I love the 'white' - Thank you so much for sharing your lovely photos.

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

You can grow just about anything you want to that is the height you want and the color, too, that you prefer. I would stick to larger bloomed, bushy varieties to minimize the amount of deadheading time needed to keep the hedge looking sharp.

The Drift roses and similar small blooming roses would be my last choice because to keep a hedge of them at a major visual point of interest as at the front of your house, unless slavishly dead headed would look unkempt. As much as I like my Drifts, spent blooms always nag me to nip them, almost obsessively. Don't let this happen to you.

Moses

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Are all these buds dead?
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

YIKES! Put your pruners on hold! The growth should bounce back in a couple days like nothing hit them. 28°F here is taken in stride...although the duration of the freeze is the main factor. Your roses should bounce back in great form.

Moses

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dianela7analabama

@Sheila z8a Rogue Valley OR

Sheila thank you for your post. I am glad you mentioned the once bloomers. I just started getting some once blooming varieties (Charles de Mills, Tuscany Superb, Allegra and Marianne ). If these varieties have tiny buds and they get zapped do you lose all your blooms for that season? Are they able to produce new ones if they never got to actually bloom?

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Sheila z8a Rogue Valley OR

The OGR European roses wait to leaf out and show buds later and never get zapped, Dianela.

My frost zapping is only the warm climate roses. In California the year round growth would be safe, but not here.

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Your favorite cl roses
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Lily, it would have to be Quicksilver for me. Lots of blooms of incredible durability...like plastic roses. The canes though, need to be carefully approached, not being supple at all, but very rigid. Its vigor is impressive.

Moses

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Lilyfinch z9a Murrieta Ca

Wow!! These are some fabulous photos everyone . Thank you so much for sharing!

I totally forgot compassion was on my wish list so that one is definitely one I want to try .

I’m already growing quicksilver , and Renea so I know they are good too ! I definitely am ordering a Mel’s heritage and I think I want to try Blossomtime again . This area may still not be 100 percent full sun but it’s much improved. I do have teasing Georgia back there already and it seems to be happy in its spot .

I’m going to look up high flier . Thank you for mentioning it judith . And I do have wollerton and strawberry hill planted elsewhere too!

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susan9santabarbara

I forgot to mention Altissimo in my previous post. It's in a weird spot, and I noticed a bloom today when I was working in the yard. Meant to take a pic for you, but got distracted. Single, red perfect gorgeous blooms. Also forgot Lamarque, which is blooming too, but it's in the process of being eaten by my wisteria :-(

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Bought my first “body bags”
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Sam, go to YouTube and research both roses. Overdevest Nursery, Bridgeton, NJ, has an Irish fellow that goes into a pretty accurate assessment of the True Bloom Line of roses, on an individual basis.

I have True Inspiration and True Passion. They both did very well their first year, 2023. Looking for further praise for the two. They do have high vigor and want to bloom a lot.

Moses

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Sam CO z5

moses, i watched a couple of those and they seem like nice roses. Im excited to try them. one of my bags actually had two nice plants in it. i got them all potted up since theyre already growing and then theyll be ready for the ground once the hard freezes are done.


SY inUSA- sounds like you got some nice ones! i have angel face (new to me last year) and america (I love this one!)

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Cool photo of pinks
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

IMHO, SAVANNAH has the nicest bloom to look down upon, but in profile, it is pancake flat and what it had from a crow's perspective it diminished from an Alfred Hitchcock's view.

For all around bloom beauty it's a toss up between Abe Darby and Eden.

Moses

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judijunebugarizonazn8

No, Sarah, I don’t grow Alnwick. I hope to someday though. Your photo of that cupped bloom looks just like I would want it to look in my garden if I should grow it!

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sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)

Bliss can get big fluffy 3D blooms! Mine is more apricot or peach fading to cream in hotter weather. I dont see a lot of pink unless the weather is very cool like early spring. I really like it apricot and blush.

Bliss






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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Should I attempt to fertilize rugosa roses?
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Yes they should be fed, but nothing applied upon their foliage...NOTHING, or serious burn results. That goes for fungicides and insecticides sprayed upon their foliage, don't do it or burn, the foliage most certainly will.

Granular fertilizer, organic or conventional, applied to the soil that targets acid loving plants is the way to go. Of course , manure that's aged is always good. Milorganite....worth a try. If you liquid feed, use a fertilizer for acid loving plants and apply it only to the soil, even just a little splashed upon the foliage will burn.

Hybrid Rugosas are pretty tough and rarely need any fungicide or insect problems addressed. However, they are very acid loving like azaleas and rhododendrons. Chlorotic foliage is frequently seen on HRs. Fix it with acidic fertilizers.

Moses

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Nancy R z5 Chicagoland

Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experiences. Currently, I have two Dwarf Pavements, three Purple Pavements, and one brand new Snow Pavement still in the pot. (I also had a Therese Bugnet for a few years, but for various reasons, she didn't work out.)

I had previously read about their leaf sensitivities, so never deliberately gave them any foliar fertilizer. However, one time I was spraying a serviceberry with Miracid (because yes, chlorosis can be a challenge around here) and a small new Purple Pavement accidentally got hit with some overspray. Voila, it was a pathetic denuded bunch of twigs for the rest of the season. Taught me a lesson!

Ken, what state are you in? I see the rest of you are out east. In the first couple of years, I gave the Dwarf Pavements some fertilizer in the ground (I don't remember what kind) and some of the new leaves looked odd and seemed chlorotic. Last year, I decided as a test not to fertilize them at all, and this didn't happen. So I think there was a connection. And so I'm considering something more like a little composted manure.

As an aside, I know about your acidic soil, because I remember seeing my father sprinkling lime on our lawn when I was a child in Connecticut. Here, I have the opposite problem.

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Ken Wilkinson

I live in N.E.GA., at the feet of the Smokie Mts

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Help with Climbing Rose please? "Florentine" - (Photos)
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Nice canes there. You should have a spectacular first flush and excellent following bloom, but climbers for the most part are less generous with flowers after the spring show.

I see you used zip tie downs. They can cut into a cane as it gets weighty with new growth, so fastening them loosely is the way to go. It looks like yours are a bit tight.

You have 6 canes going left and 4 going right. The left half of Florentine is a bit congested. I would lower the farthest cane on the right at least to the same distance from the ground as the lowest cane on the left. Then refasten the next canes in line in a nicely spaced distance from each other until cane #5 from the right is pointing straight up. The canes on the left of the bush are/will be perfectly distanced from one another needing no adjusting.

All things considered, you have a fantastic framework there.

Moses

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

P.S. Those canes are the envy of many a climbing rose enthusiast.

Moses

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Vaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley

Those are some fabulous looking roses! I use Old nylons, Leggings,,Et cetera. Anything that has elastic and is thin And the correct color that I want.It blends in, Last for years It's easy to take on and off And also Expands as needed.. Twist ties also work But not as well as the stretchy materials. Once you start looking for them You will get creativeUseful.

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Garden Mist

Thank you Vaporvac. I never would have thought of nylon. What a great idea! Thanks for this fabulous tip.

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Favorite weeding tools ?
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

The wild white morning glory

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floraluk2

I'd use a fork as party music suggests. I've never gardened on soil where persistent perennial weeds could be pulled by hand. Roots break off and leave fragments in the ground which just grow back.

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BlueberryBundtcake - 6a/5b MA

Dandelion tool for dandelions and other simple taproots. 3-tined cultivator and hand pulling for matting weeds like grass and clover. Grab and yank for larger vining things like bittersweet (be prepared for the root to disturb surrounding pants and also move sharp objects so you don't fall on them if the root snaps). Shovel for trees.

For really nefarious plants (I'm looking at you creeping bellflower), take the desired plants out, pretty much bareroot them to assure no weed roots, then sift the dirt and dispose of anything that might be weed root (in the trash). You will need to dig and sift deeper and wider than you think to get rid of all the root tendrils.

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA started a discussion: White Drift...new to me. Any pics you took of yours?
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Jadae

There are two official White Drift roses. The original looks like a miniature version of Rosa wichurana. The newer one is more complex.

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dianela7analabama

@Jadae I can’t find the original white you mentioned on their line up so I am assuming it has been completely replaced? Just for reference the one I am talking about and intend to try is the following.

I think the reference to the pink shading means it may indeed be a sport of sweet drift



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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Disease or just damage?
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

I think the stem got an injury at the site which got infected with a benign pathogen which killed the growth beyond the point of injury making that juncture easily snapped off. The gall like growth was the result of infected sap oozing forth and solidifying, attaching itself to the upper stem part but did not infiltrate into the rest of the bush.

Just go with the flow, as the Hippies frequently said, and see what happens next. Don't worry yourself. If it is crown gall, you will find out in due time, and then .proceed as is customary. Bushes are generally removed if so, and the immediate soil to the volume of about three gallons worth is removed, and discarded off site.

Moses

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chris209 (LI, NY Z7a)

Thanks for the insights!

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Is my new rose diseased? I’m freaking out!
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Boy, can I understand your angst. I was hit with Rose Rosette Disease for the first time in 2022. It only hit two, but much beloved, venerable old friends, my Lady Ashe and one of my Quietness bushes. It was a hard gut punch, but you pick yourself up, pray a lot, and renew the battle to grow from the experience.

RRD did not rear its ugly head in 2023, thank God, so perhaps it was a one time event, which due to the nature of the virus and its means of transmission by the insidious mite is unlikely, unfortunately.

If you do indeed have RRD, you will shortly know very quickly. Keep us posted. Rose growing presents a myriad of challenges, but the battles fought and victories won make it worthwhile.

Moses

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Paul Barden

I'm 95% confident in saying that this is either herbicide drift damage or RRD. You may not have used an herbicide yourself, but if you have immediate neighbors and they used Roundup on a breezy day, it could easily drift onto your garden and cause this kind of damage.

As this new growth isn't dark red and hyper-thorny, it's more likely herbicide damage, which it will likely grow out of. You can see that new growth started out looking quite normal and then suddenly, it started to grow abnormally. This suggests that something changed, suddenly - like an herbicide event. As your neighbors.

I suggest you leave it to grow and watch for the development of more definite signs of RRD (red growth, unusually abundant thorns), and if you see any of that, post new pics and get advice.

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: Keep this rose or throw away?
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Doesn't look diseased to me, just gnarly. Give it TLC, everything the best you can, then if it limps along, give it the boot, but wait at least until fall.

Moses

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Paul Barden

Diane's advice is excellent. The only thing worse than throwing away $5 on a rose that's not performing well is throwing away a year of your life, trying to coax an unwilling/unhealthy plant into doing what it clearly has no intention of doing. Spend more, get a better plant and replace the sad one.

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Kristine LeGault 8a pnw

Lol Paul, thats my thinking as well. I have but a few good years ( hopefully) and I have no time to wait it out

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: A season of pruning experimentation
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Very hard pruning inmimild

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Sheila z8a Rogue Valley OR

A1an, no that is not the universal pruning answer. If you have HTs and Floribundas it sounds OK. There are many other types of roses however where it would be totally wrong.

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erasmus_gw

I don't prune nearly that hard. But every year it occurs to me in summer that I have done it again... pruned too little. This year I'm cutting some back much more than usual but it's certainly not all of them or the majority. I like my plants to get big. Sometimes I'd like them a bit smaller or bushier. So I am pruning some boldly, hoping to get good shrubby plants. If they branch out the way I want, I would not cut them back so hard the following year as they'd be pleasing to me as they were. Some plants resent too much pruning so I don't take off more than 1/4 or 1/3 . In zone 7, NC, winter die back is not a big problem. Some plants just need a minor trim. Some are ok not pruned. I thought the new thinking on ht's was to prune to hip high. But even that you ignore if you have to . I like getting rid of gangly growth and neatening them up. I pruned Golden Celebration pretty hard a couple of years ago, hoping to rejuvenate it and it didn't respond very well. It grew, but didn't really renew itself. I cut back my Knockout very hard this year. It'll be interesting to see how the hard pruned ones do.

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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA updated discussion
Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA commented on a discussion: When is it too late for bare roots?
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA

Sufficient watering during settling in is the primary concern. Second, heat that can be minimized by shading during the same period, will allow you to plant bare roots into May, I recon.

Then a good layer of mulch to keep the soil as cool as possible, and you should do fine. Remove the shade item, some kind of plywood board graduated every couple days until full sun is tolerated well, then you should be done.

Moses

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Kristine LeGault 8a pnw

I have done bare root as late as June when Jackson and Perkins gave away left overs to the employees. It was already hot but I shaded them and gave them lots of water. oyr of the 30 plus roses I managed yo save them all.

It can definetly be done with care.

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