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That is going to look fabulous! I am persnickety about gallery walls and generally want them to be really well designed like this with coordinating frames. I hope you'll share the final project becase this looks great.
Gallery walls have several aesthetic elements. The prints themselves, the matting, the frames, and the wall as background. The entire concept is based on the how it looks as a whole.
By its nature, then, a gallery wall deemphasizes the subejcts of the photos. If my number one priority were to be able to see the photos, I might have chosen less of them and made them very large with little matting. It was not. I was looking for a decorative item to fill wall space. I specifically wanted lots of white and gold since the wall is a dark olive. And I wanted as many photos as possible within reason.
That said, it is a small room, and these are right above a sofa. They will be pretty visible I think.
Those look exceptional, and the price is almost unbelievable for the number of frames/prints and quality.
Wow it's beautiful! Can you share details about the tile and the countertops?
Just lovely, and a dream tub too!
Very nicely done! The time you took in planning really paid off. And I love the warm touch the vanity adds to the room. Enjoy!
I heard about this, but I guess I really don't know the names of famous architects. So I wasn't really clear on how disappointing this is. I do understand why someone might be inclined to raze a house in favor of building just what they want on a lot in a preferred area. But it is sad if it was architecturally significant and to be replaced by a boring generic house following the current fad.
I find it sad that several of the homes in my neighborhood have been spray painted white (including over stone, brick, etc) and painted with black trim. I think that look can be nice if planned, but when done poorly the homes look so bad.
I am thinking about both sides of this, because there is some discussion surrounding turning my neighborhood into a historic district. There are already many historic designations within the neighborhood, but no blanket designation of the neighborhood.
As with most things, this could be good, and it could be bad. On the one hand it could stop people from doing overbuilds or hideous modifications of their houses, or from tearing something down. On the other hand there could be a great deal of trouble if you want to replace windows.
So often in this city this seems to play out that a lowly homeowner can be requested to remove and replace a brand new but non-complying basement window, but if you are a developer with enough influence, you can be granted permission to tear down an entire row of 18th c. buildings by claiming it would be a hardship to redevelop them in a historically sensitive way.
This is the outcome when you have the filthy rich who can have it all. Why would they care about anything beyond their own wants?
When I look at the homes that were built in the early 1900s in my home town it is so obvious what an economy where you had great income disparity looks like.
Here is the house owned by the founder of the steel mill
13,588 sqft
Then we have what became known as Mansion Row - The upper management housing.
Each home between 3500 sf - 5000 sf.
And then we have hundreds of the homes built for the workers 1000-1200 sf boxes. There are basically 2 floorplans. You walk in the front door - stairs are ahead of you. To the left is a living room, that either leads directly to the kitchen or may have a small dining room between the living room and kitchen. Go up the stairs and at the top of the stairs is the bathroom, beside the stairs there are either one or two smaller bedrooms and at the front of the house over the living room is the master bedroom.
And we used to have hundreds of even smaller - 720 SF 2 br 1 ba boxes. Most of those have been torn down and replaced with apartment buildings or small business complexes.
My mom lived in the one that is now boarded up when she first got married in 1938.
After the WWs the town grew around the existing town, the middle class thrived and lovely developments were built with homes with yards centered around elementary schools. Two shopping centers were built. There were still some rich, and some poor, but most lived in typical typical middle class neighborhoods instead of the masses living in the boxed row homes.
Sadly, our economy looks much more like the economy of the 20s than the 60s.
Good luck, SueB20! Hope it works out.
Pricklypearcactus, I am very familiar with Kevin Hall's work with the NIH on obesity. I've seen several talks and webinars from him. He also studied the Biggest Loser contestants. Right, once you develop the obesity pathophysiology the body just really fights reversing it. That's why the medications work so well in general, but even then, people might hit a plateau on weight loss. Also, with lifestyle treatments even in these intense interventions, many people stop at about 10% of body weight, and most of the weight is lost in the first 6 months. This is study after study. Some people are able to blow past that, but that is way less common.
Still grading, early in the morning. I think I can finish up one class today. Yay! Much more to go!
In a wet room, the entire floor needs to slope to the drain at a rate of minimum 1/4" per foot or maximum 1/2" per foot. You would need to think how you would accomplish that slope within your existing flooring structure which is flat. A shower curb and/or shower pan allows the 2" above the drain to be built into just the shower area, which you won't be able to do if you do a full wet room.
It would certainly be feasible to waterproof the floor under tile using something like one of the Schluter systems regardless if you make the whole room wet room with full slope to the drain. This would help protect against water damage, though would probably still require cleanup to address standing water.
One concern I would have is that if you have elderly people going into a tiled bathroom where water is not well contained into the shower area, you're creating additional slip and fall hazard. Someone takes a shower and then an elderly person comes in to use the toilet and may slip and fall. Even if the entire floor slopes so the water isn't pooling, wet tile itself can still be somewhat slippery even if it's small format and/or high friction.
All of the things mentioned this is a complicated job and open to many issues. IMO with people using it that have disabilities an out swing door is a must BTW since no possibility of a pocket door. Is you daugeter in wheelchair or soon to be ? You need a tile setter who has done wet rooms this is not a job for your friend who does tile . I think if a wheelchair is something needed to be planned for this whole space is too small for that . IMO a low curb if at all pssible just a much better idea. in this small space . BTW a to scale plan is a much more helpful drawing . Easy to just make each square on graph paper 6" . Post the new drawing here in a comment all things related to this dilemma now dealt with here in comments .
Thanks. I don't need wheelchair access--just want an open floor around the toilet, and want to use a shower curtain instead of doors. There is no room for outswing doors, and the current glass slider shower doors make for a very cramped shower entrance. Trying to make this more useable for adult guests--daughter is a tiny little person who navigates the room just fine (but splashes water everywhere for the fun of it).
It is a conventional foundation with floor joists. So probably too complicated to be worth it. That was the info I needed. Thanks.
It's an empress perfect paw. And obviously you aren't being a good hooman servant by the photos :) Sassy pretty thing she is.
But yeah, try to find out if there is an owner. Girls aren't as easy to tell as boys about if they have been fixed or not. She might turn into empress mommy paws.
You can definitely have a towel bar below a light switch. Measure your towels folded so that you know how much height you need up from the floor. The last thing you'll want is towels dragging on the floor when hung up. I measured mine on my towel bar and they hang down about 28".
This is the room all ripped apart....
We used a Panasonic switch for the fan and light to have the two use the same switch plate, which I especially like because the fan button starts a 30-minute timer. (The light button below it is just on/off.) Our particular model also has a humidity sensor because our local code requires it, but they make the same switch with just the two stacked controls.
I do agree on moving the outlet next to the toilet to be behind it so that it could potentially be used for a bidet but still be accessible for things like vacuums. Ours is in that top corner to the left of the toilet and works well for those uses. I think two outlets is fine for the sinks, though. We only have one outlet for a single sink and find that to be plenty for a master bath. The one thing I wish we had considered was also building one into the recessed medicine cabinet to be able to have electric toothbrushes charge inside the cabinet instead of sitting out on the counter, but that isn't a huge deal since they only get charged once a month or so.
You need a better design. A 36” island will be too tight for your aisles, for the way you want to use this.
Replacing all the floors is a given at this level of change project. Along with everything else. You are talking a 150K+ renovation here. You need actual professional kitchen designer help.
If the tile does not run under the peninsula and leaves a flooring hole when you change your cabinets, then it would be best to replace all of the flooring. What type of flooring you choose will depend on your cabinet selection and what you like. If you do real wood you'll need to worry about how that will look next to faux wood tile.
It sounds like you have a good contractor! It is important to have proper slope to the drain in a shower (typically 1/4"-1/2" per foot I believe) in order to make certain the water goes into the drain and doesn't just pool on the floor. Probably even more important in your case where you have a curbless entry. Because of that slope and obviously tiles being rigid, you need the tiles to be small enough to conform to that slope without creating lippage between the tiles.
This older thread has a great comment from MongoCT talking about it.
https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2268601/maximum-tile-size-for-shower-floor
If you were doing square tiles, your contractor could cut them down into smaller pieces within the shower. Not sure that's feasible with octagonal tiles. As Mongo says in that thread, if the shower slope has defined breaks, sometimes larger tiles can be used and cut along those breaks. If I were you, I'd ask the contractor what size is needed in the shower. Then either go with that size tile for the whole floor, or find one that has a smaller matching option for the shower area, or one that can be cut down into that size for the shower area.
Permabase and Ditra is a giant joke. This guy is clueless. As is the project manager/GC. Rot fest within 18 months.
Yikes. Is this something that is just a preference or is this not legally allowed by code??
It's much easier to coordinate dark brown furniture pieces than to try to match a whitewashed finish later on. If you buy a full suite of bedroom furniture now, the color won't matter unless something gets damaged and needs replacement.
I much prefer the dark that you have. Like Patricia said, the light sample looks like an unintended miss since it's so close to the carpet color.
I am making an assumption that the photos of the dining room table and chairs and china cabinet are in OP's mother's home. And the photos of the room with the chandelier and the sofa is OP's room where the dining set could go.
I think it looks like a nice dining set and I am partial to stained wood rather than painted, especially in stains similar to the one of the dining set. So I personally would not paint it. Or I would at least try it in the room without painting.
Whether it's worth repairing the chairs really depends on whether the chairs are comfortable and you like them. If you do, I'd consider having the caning repaired and maybe the seats reupholstered in a fabric of your choosing that fits with the colors in your home. As for the china cabinet, you can also store anything you want in there, china or otherwise. Art, collectibles, etc. It's essentially just a glass front cabinet and you can use it how you choose. Or if you feel like it's too big or you don't have things you want to display, you can always break up the set and part with whatever isn't working for you (china cabinet or chairs, etc).
worthyvess, my comment was directed to all the many pronouncements of what is or is not "on trend," "dated," "out," "passe," and all the other dicta that the design world adopts.
My philosophy is that instead of worrying about what is in or out, decide for yourself what you like and need and can afford. You'll be happier in the long run if you just go with your gut. I've always tried to get the best quality I could afford and keep it for the long haul. I'm sure that someone coming into my house right now would turn up their nose at the 18th century reproduction cherry furniture with cabriole legs and broken pediments, raised paneled fireplace mantels, pumpkin pine flooring and trim, lots of color, swag and jabot curtains, toile and floral fabrics, shirred bedskirts, etc. But it is all high quality and I loved it back when I bought it and I still love it now.
The biggest issue, however, is if you like something that has been determined to be "out" it is more difficult to find in the marketplace. So then you go to ebay, estate sales and thrift stores and get a great deal on what everyone is throwing out!
Totally agree Diana!
With the plus that if it is old, it is many times higher quality!
"Holy moly salt in the wound." Yes, such an unhelpful and mean comment. Seems impossible for her to be kind.
What about some low flowering groundcover or flower bulbs? They might be able to grow in tight spaces. (Not sure about the impact from heat of road and the house though.) I do like the idea of a railing and window box with trailing plants.
While my house is beside a road it's a private drive for me and a handful of neighbors only. Not many pedestrians really.
I was under the impression this was a street but If it's a private drive I would think plantations (grass, shrubs, vines, or etc,) would be possible with a proper irrigation system.
Why not just build the deck and pergola to the side of the tree instead of trying to build it around the tree? It doesn't seem like you'll be gaining much useable space (just a few feet) to encompass the tree. Perhaps you can draw a layout of the space with exact dimensions to see what you gain by building around the tree vs adjacent to the tree.
I am not an arborist, but I do think your tree is beautiful. I hope it's safe for you to keep it as it seems to be a lovely feature in the yard that likely provides wonderful shade in the summer. If you do keep it, I would want to make sure the deck is built very carefully so as not to damage the roots to risk losing the tree.
There goes any and all money for the veranda expansion. Taking a tree down of that size will be $$$$$$$. Looming trees like this one are scattered all over neighborhoods. Statistically you are more likely to slip in your shower than you are to have it fall. The county came through and 'umbrella' cut a beautiful blue spruce we had on the edge of our property. It looks ridiculous. The tree will survive. Do you have a pole saw? It's a pretty easy job.
That tree is far too large to move and the OP has no intention of cutting it down.
Nicole you have such a lovely property and house. That's so sweet that you are looking for a dog that needs you and doesn't have someone else who needs the specific dog more than you do. I'm positive you'll find one that can stay with you. I hope the next time it's a much better experience for you.
Salvona, I bet you are right that the owners have considered breeding the dogs for money. I've met some (not great) people in the past who did the same.
As you're scanning the online profiles, look for a beached whale. He's been the best!!
And I know his toenails are a little long. We need a vet visit for that.
OK. Beached Whale. GOT IT! ❤️❤️❤️
I love his spotted tummy! He looks like a character. Hanging out ..... enjoying life.
I started using vitamin C serum and a night cream (sometimes) in addition to daily moisturizer.
I am a very active outdoor person so I do wear sunscreen if I'll be out in the sun an hour or longer in a high SPF. But to be honest, that's not to say I'm always using sun protection. I do spend shorter times in the sun regularly without sunscreen as well, usually in the morning or evening. Maybe I will regret it, but I do think our bodies are meant to get some sunshine.
I also started doing intermittent fasting (on the recommendation of my doctor) and I noticed a few improvements with that. Losing some weight helped me decrease the amount of thyroid medication I needed and oddly seems to have helped make my face look a little younger. Additionally I somewhat regularly (usually weekly or ever other week) do a 36 hour fast (example: stop eating Sunday evening and resume eating Tuesday morning) and it has significantly helped my digestive system and every time makes my skin look better.
Fasting is weird and honestly a few years ago I didn't think I could do it either. First, I started smaller and worked my way up to 36 hours. But the strange thing for me is if I don't eat anything, I feel less hungry than if I were to eat or drink small amounts of calories. I drink water, black coffee, tea sometimes, and sparkling water (La Croix, Bubly, etc) but no broth or anything like that. Keeping myself busy helps a lot. But, some days I'll start out with a plan to fast 36 hours and realize by the end of the day that my body just isn't up for it and I'll eat a small meal in the evening and only do about a 24 hour fast. I won't say it's easy, but it's not nearly as hard as it sounds. The next morning I'm sometimes low energy but during the day of fasting I'm usually high energy and will do all of my normal exercise (lifting weights, swimming, running, etc).
PS I am thinking the disposable eye patches would be used for special occasions when I want to look good. Definitely not a daily thing.
Today is my botox consult! Ironically also the day I see my dentist about the crown that partially broke thanks to teeth grinding. I definitely want the botox for the grinding/TMJ but I could be convinced to do a tiny bit around my eyes…curious to see what she recommends.
@Kswl one of the eye masks I looked at contained caffeine, niacinamides, and some other stuff, most of which is in theEmogene eye serum I already use. I think the masks are substantially the same as using eye cream and plastic wrap. 😆 I think I’ll pass.
I did not realize the Emogene eye serum I use also contains bakuchiol!
The PA I saw yesterday had just had microneedling done the day before. Her skin is gorgeous and she does not wear make-up. I meant to ask her about microneedling for me and forgot.
I am loving my new end table aka desk in our sitting room. (On the left under the windows.) Solid vintage oak. $75.
(The little stool under the front window was also a deal at $25 a couple of years ago.)
From the FB listing:
I was shopping in the produce section of Kroger the other day and was looking over the potatoes. I was trying to find the best bag when the grocery guy came up to me and told me he had some new bags he could get me. I said okay, and then he asked if I needed onions because the cart he was unloading had huge white and yellow onions on them. I sometimes choose them over bags because the ones in the bags are usually already rotting. I told him the last time I bought a bag of onions there they were half rotten already. He asked me which ones I wanted and I picked three huge onions out. He bagged them in netting and put a .99 label on them for me. I'm pretty sure they would normally cost me $5 or more for those three onions.
There is really no insult for a straight white male which isn't actually an insult to someone who is not a straight white male, because almost any insult to a straight white male is calling him something that is not a straight white male, as if being something other or "less" than his straight white maleness is a really terrible thing.
Holy smokes!!! This really makes me want to take some of my vintage furniture into a refinisher. I have several items that I still enjoy but have a lot of small nicks and other damage. What a beautiful result!
Gorgeous. Now you'll have to figure out where to put all the stuff that was covering it!
Edited to add - Hope the refinisher doesn't have too many Insta followers thinking it was you that trashed that nice table!
Wow, that's amazing!
I wish I knew of or could find a good refinsher. I have a large burl wood coffee table with inlay that I just adore. It's my favorite piece of furniture. I would love to have it refinished to fix some small mishaps but I am afraid of it being ruined.
A LA is a good idea in such a tricky situation. Tell him or her your goals, especially low maintenance, and get a plan. Grass on a slope is dangerous and difficult to cut and is by "border" you mean a flower border, it will require ongoing maintenance(weeding, mulching etc.) as well.
I'd say no opinion is the same as "if you don't have something nice to say..."
it's a negative. Almost anyone will want to remove it (same with jacuzzis now) and that is costly as well as implicating the entire bathroom. Lowball.
I would think in nearly all cases it would detract from the value of the property. Most people would likely see that and have to think about how they will replace it with a normal tub. The only exception I could think of would be a location/property that specifically appeals to people of an age or physical condition to need a walk-in tub, which is a small portion of the poplulation.
I love them together!
Do u have a link to that light fixture?
It is also a Visual Comfort I found at lumens, but I imagine it is available from different sources. This should bring you to the site
Openwork Vanity Light
by Studio VC for Visual Comfort Signature
You mention you have a limited budget. Have you identified and budgeted how much it will cost you to rehab these houses? I am not a flipper or real estate investor, but both houses look like they will take a substantial amount of money to flip. A lot of buyers with intentions to remodel (whether to flip or simply update) end up way in over their heads when they realize the actual cost and the required time investment. For example, others mentioned potentially galvanized plumbing that would need to be replaced. And to me it looks like the roofs are sagging and need replacement.
No! And No Again! Are you aware of the price of building supplies at this particular time? They are through the roof, which it looks like you'd need. Run!
OMG. No.
I 2nd Pricklypearcactus. That's my cheap solution...and it's not ugly....or dangerous....
We use "Post & Rail" fencing around here. It's cheap. It's sturdy. No cement. Will last 20 years. Do you have a "Big R", ranch supply store? It's about $16 for a post, $13 for a rail. I maintain about 3 miles of it.