You would like new floor tile, and a new sink top / light fixture. You don't have a major issue with commode privacy but you would like to keep a tub and a larger shower. Here's a new option - this isn't an expensive exchange as it keeps all the wall plumbing EXCEPT you would run the tub service over to the opposite wall and use the sink service for the tub - your tub will fit in the recess next to toilet . . that exchange should be painless $ comparatively and the result is spacious AND a true master bath . . use existing shower valves and heads but rework floorpan and curb . did a quick shape insert so obviously shower goes all the way to the wall but it can be quite wide 42" w at head and tapering back to 32 or so . . maintains good length this way, gets you back to code and lets the light in. ..you don't have to do a glass separation between tub and toilet, but it offers more privacy and you could frost shower to halfway mark to do more but still get light in . .
A separate bath and shower will always be superior, and the corner is not a good place for a long counter which is what you need for a master sink cabinet. Yes, baths are expensive but if you reuse some of the plumbing fixtures you have you can cut that down a lot . .so I get that the tub is not your thing, but replacing that and new fixture for it will be a cool $1500 min - some people will pay extra for your house with them - you can reuse the cabinet and shower head / valves - also worth hundreds . . you would be replacing the least expensive things - faucet, sink, tile. You want this bath to be a sales tool for your house when you sell . . this layout would do it. .
Thank you for this. I don't know how much something like this would cost, but I think it would be the best use of our space and change the bath from something people have to get past to something that adds value to our home when we are ready to sell. Plus it would be a great bathroom to use while we have it. I do have one last question...the wall that you are suggesting we put the sink on currently has our baseboard for heat on it. It ends before the tub would become an issue, but I assume I could just mount a sink on the back side and use feet for the front and run the baseboard under the sink space? Also, if I am already spending the kind of money that it would take to pull up the floor and tile a whole bath, would you still still with the claw foot we have or would you go with something more modern, like the Broadmoor pic? Or would you keep the claw foot and go with the mix of modern and classic? Thanks again, you have me looking at the space in a whole new way.
If i knew what the front of your home looked like, I could tell you about the claw foot - is your home of an era where in the 40's it might have had a claw foot? then yes. keep it, but otherwise, don't go quite as far as the broadmoor as the drop in will require a tile or slab deck and face . . get a tub with a skirt and its own deck and let them just bring the wall tile along the back . . do a recess in the wall (like you see on showers) right at the height of the tub so you have a shelf that is deep enough for something you use or at least a place to drop your head further . . . .
due to the window size and trim, i assumed that yes, you had a house that was claw foot era. The cast iron tubs can be painted on the outside - you might select an accent color like soft bm williamsburg wythe blue and keep everything else white and the wood color of the vanity but paint the outside of the claw foot that shade . . it can be a different kind of asset. Since the recess is narrow and the claw foot is narrow, it helps the room work since your door is so big. Most tubs require more depth which isn't great for you here . . you will have to build a header wall and so on . . so for budget reasons alone i think keeping the claw foot is good. If you / your wife LOVEs a soaker bath, splurge on a deep soaking tub, move the door to outside the room with special cane hardware on the inner leading side (since the doorway is so wide, it doesn't have to slide totally free of it when open) and slide the sink cabinet down.
Thank you for this. I don't know how much something like this would cost, but I think it would be the best use of our space and change the bath from something people have to get past to something that adds value to our home when we are ready to sell. Plus it would be a great bathroom to use while we have it. I do have one last question...the wall that you are suggesting we put the sink on currently has our baseboard for heat on it. It ends before the tub would become an issue, but I assume I could just mount a sink on the back side and use feet for the front and run the baseboard under the sink space? Also, if I am already spending the kind of money that it would take to pull up the floor and tile a whole bath, would you still still with the claw foot we have or would you go with something more modern, like the Broadmoor pic? Or would you keep the claw foot and go with the mix of modern and classic? Thanks again, you have me looking at the space in a whole new way.
due to the window size and trim, i assumed that yes, you had a house that was claw foot era. The cast iron tubs can be painted on the outside - you might select an accent color like soft bm williamsburg wythe blue and keep everything else white and the wood color of the vanity but paint the outside of the claw foot that shade . . it can be a different kind of asset. Since the recess is narrow and the claw foot is narrow, it helps the room work since your door is so big. Most tubs require more depth which isn't great for you here . . you will have to build a header wall and so on . . so for budget reasons alone i think keeping the claw foot is good. If you / your wife LOVEs a soaker bath, splurge on a deep soaking tub, move the door to outside the room with special cane hardware on the inner leading side (since the doorway is so wide, it doesn't have to slide totally free of it when open) and slide the sink cabinet down.