Perhaps I should add that, with exception of the main vent pipe, which would not have a 180 degree turn in it, each of the fixtures, sinks, shower, and commode need an air draw to protect water in the p-trap from being siphoned out. They make a one-way vent that may be used when there is no way to vent to the outside. I am not a fan of those so my concept is largely, if not entirely, an air draw source and only the main (common) vent pipe would vent gases from the sewer system.....since it would be open to the septic tank and open to the outside vent stack. I should have created a diagram I suppose.

Several people have been very clear with you - and I'll add to the chorus: You clearly don't understand the purpose of plumbing codes, and rather than do it properly, you are trying to get us to go along with this nonsense. No. No responsible person on here should have any part of that.

Hire someone to do the job properly - to code - even if there won't be a code inspector there. There is a really good reason to do it according to code - it's not there just to make your life difficult.

What's more - anyone who lives in this dwelling, and anyone who purchases this property in the future, has the expectation that the work that's hidden behind the walls and under the floor was done properly and will not make them sick.

Ok! Perfect! Thank you!

" This is our first time ever redoing anything so not sure which route to take."

You do not want to hire individual tasks out. That's the route to a train wreck in slow motion - not to mention the added costs of marriage counseling. Try that with a kitchen remodel and you are looking at divorce - seriously...not kidding. I've seen couples who knew what they were doing and have been together for 25 years almost end it over kitchen remodels.

Your general can do "as-built" floorplans - no problem. We did them all the time for an entire house. If nothing is really changing, they may not even need to do that. They should do to a tile layout to show how floor / wall tile will go - it avoids a lot of surprises. Same with an elevation showing a bathroom sink / vanity if that's changing.

Drawings can communicate a lot of information that avoid assumptions. If there are changes being made, don't be afraid to ask for a scale drawing - even if it's with a pencil and an architect scale on grid paper.

Thanks for all of the information. I asked this question initially because a relative of mine (plumbing apprentice of sorts) told me that ABS was of inferior quality and morever that it was very loud when water was traveling through it as opposed to PVC which muffled the sound much more effectively. Any truth to this?

I would go to an actual plumbing supply store. Tell them what functions, finish, and budget and they will assemble you a system. You could do that in any brand from moen on up. I’ve never sold signature hardware so can’t comment on it.

FYI, if you are in CA you can not operate more than one shower fixture at a time. You will need a diverter to direct water to one fixture or the other.

Hard "no" to draining into the sink if you are re-doing the room. Different if you had no other option - but you do. Code calls for a 2" drain to the stack - not a 3" as was suggested by someone else. A 3" drain is completely unnecessary.

Sink in middle of washer/dryer would make me angry every time I used the machines.

A floor plan of the room and an elevation of that wall would be super helpful.

Depending on the height of the window, you can use front loaders on a custom built platform so you get them off the floor, but don't block the window (as much). Another plan would be stacking a front loading set on one side of the window - but that puts the washer on the floor. Not a great place as far as bending over to move clothes from washer to dryer but still better than a sink in the middle.

I think your suggestion to move the W&D to the far right and have the utility sink with its cutting board to the left of the washer is the best option. Stackable W&D units are not ideal, in my opinion -- hard to service, some of them have the dryer controls and clothes drum too high to reach, etc. Better to keep them side by side since you do have space. I might consider putting a pocket door between the laundry room and the family room; I always prefer pocket doors unless there is a compelling reason to have a swing door (like for an exterior door). Or maybe you already just have a doorway there and no door at all? The tall built-in cabinets are a great use of the space by the garage door. Good luck and keep us posted so we can see the final result.

Thanks, yes we planned on at least a modern "barn" door b/c we have a vent there we can't do a true pocket. That will help conceal any built up laundry/mess, however we do want this to be designed well as we've redone our entire home so far and this is one of the last rooms. I want it to be as functional as possible but also look nice.

@Jpap You are responding to a post that's 11 years old.

Thus his suggestion to use the Wayback machine...

@Jake The Wonderdog, I'm aware of that. ;-) This thread comes up in Google search for sizing a gas line. There's so little information out there (especially with information specific to PG&E) that I wanted to contribute in a way that hopefully makes this thread more useful for others who also need to size a gas line.

Good, I think you will be happy with that system.

About the rabbit hole of pure water: Presumably none of us are a large team of epidemiologists, chemists, biologists, medical doctors, with access to large data sets, peer review, etc. that we would need to really weigh the risk / cost / benefit of various chemicals. And you CERTAINLY won't find that on a website selling water treatment. Those people exist in universities, the EPA, Health Departments, etc.

People are very bad about weighing relative risk: I once had a co-worker who was going on about residual chemicals on the apple I was about to eat. Of course I had washed the apple off, and I do recognize that we want to minimize exposure to that - but this co-worker was a smoker.

Her smoking was hundreds of times worse for her than whatever was left on that apple.

Same with the automobile example: That "new car smell" is off-gassing from dozens of chemicals from the plastics, foam, paint, fabrics, sealants, coatings etc. The interior of a new car is a "huffing bag" with a stereo and comfy seats. Actually driving someplace is statistically very dangerous. And lord help us on a motorcycle.

We tend to downplay the risks where we think we have control, such as driving. We also downplay risks based on their reward. We accept the risk of driving because it gets us to work and the grocery store. We elevate risks we don't understand - such as chemical residue.

There are very boring things that we can do to dramatically improve our health and live a long active life: Stop smoking, lose weight, be more active, improve our diets, dramatically reduce alcohol use, and get guns out of your home - particularly if you have children, young adults or middle age or older men in the home. Fluoride in the water is not on the list anywhere... but that, and things like it, is what distracts our attention from the real risks.

Jake, very well said (last paragraph) about the things we can control in our lives that improve our health and wellbeing.