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Usually, potash is applied once per year. It doesn't leach quite as easily as other nutrients. I would presume the application rate is the same for all plants. We appreciate you bringing good questions like this to the forum, and the discussion may well help others.

Thank you :)

Dan, you hit the nail on the head. 1 pound per 100 sq. ft. works out to 1/16 ounce per 1 square foot. A 1/16th of an ounce equals 4.55 grams, so I weighed 1 teaspoon of 0-0-60 (KCI) and it was about 4 1/2 to 5 grams. well done. I also weighed out a pound of KCI and it equaled 2 cups, so 2 cups per 100 sq. ft. is what you'd use if you plan to do the entire garden area.

Daleyc, 20 years ago all of this was like an alien language to me, so I took it down to the lowest factor and learned my way up to make sense of it all. One very important lesson you really need to learn is how math is used to convert numbers into something you can work with just as Dan did.

Good luck with you garden and hope it all works out for you.

Fair point. If your native soil isn't pretty acidic, it's understood to be largely a losing proposition to try to strongly acidify it. That is, you can heave sulfur on it, and it will reduce the pH slightly, but the pH will pop back up to a higher level in a year or two. It should be understood that where your soil is alkaline, your water (probably ground water) is going to be alkaline as well, so just watering de-acidifies. My soil pH is 7.9, but my water pH is over 9! My lake water is 8.0, but they bump the pH up to remove minerals. Growing blueberries for me in the ground is hopeless, and I suspect growing them in containers wouldn't be much easier.

Thanks guys! I do suspect it will "revert back" if left alone. I will get it tested but not every year. It is only for blueberry bushes so only a localized area. I was also guessing 2x a year was overkill so will reduce it to once a year. I will watch my blueberry harvest, if it is bad then i will test the soil for sure.

Thanks again everyone!!!!!!!!!!

It seems very suspicious that they are not giving me the info.....................

Hmmm. They seem reluctant to admit that something might have happened to the seeds between the time they left their site, and when they ended up in your hands, and seem to want to presume that you did something wrong. They also conspicuously did not reassure you that their germination tests for that lot didn't show anything wrong.

Actually, if you're interested in soil temps, Syngenta does it for you. https://www.greencastonline.com/tools/soil-temperature. NIce resource for looking at historical soil temperatures as well. Click on the date range and it will give you choices. Very handy. I assume they do this by averaging over measured air temperatures.

Hostas are out, soil temp is 60 at 4" down. As long as I keep a close eye on them worse case I just add some more heaters. I have a lot of elec heaters of all sizes.

I put tom's and peppers in and built a few more cold frames. Covered now with light bulbs in them to add a little heat. I am able to keep air temps 10 degrees higher than outside. Soil temps 4" down are 55 in AM and 60 during the day. I am sure this will increase with cold frames built yesterday. Lowest forecast is 32 so I should not get below 40 air temps (and only at 40 for a couple hours).

I feel confident air temps will always be over 40 and soil over 57 (most times 60 or more).

I think this should be good. We have a cold week ahead then a big warm up. After next week most likely no more temps below 40 until fall.

Interesting that people are recommending specific pesticides to control allium borers (leaf miners), and quoting respectable sources. As I noted a few days ago, it has also been claimed that no residential pesticides are available that will work. See https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/allium-leaf-miner. So I guess there is some disagreement in the community. Though it is true that spinosad, for example, is banned in several states and some countries. Permethrin is also mentioned here, but that is not approved for residential use.

daninthedirt, that was also my understanding. An exceedlingly difficult pest to deal with.

Perhaps if I were younger I'd try some of the suggestions. But at nearly 80, I can't take on more garden set ups than I've already got. So, probably gilroy garlic from now on.

Just FYI, fungicide is a preventative. Once you have symptoms of a fungus infection, fungicide won't necessarily kill it. You might be seeing bacterial leaf spot. MIght just remove tha affected leaves. But protection for other uninfected foliage can be achieved with copper or chlorothalonil.

Growing inside 100% temps 68-78 watered from bottom. I planted from seeds. No fertilizer until 2 days ago (miracle grow potting soil).

Dan good point about not stopping it, I keep forgetting that. I pitched the 1 plant seemed like a no brainer - I had a few extra. Most mature leaves had it bad. Going to trim other leaves and spray immunox then in a few days daconcil.