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Looks like there is a filler strip installed already between the two cabinets.
Flip the door and have the cabinets open opposite one another. You'll have to be careful that the door knob doesn't damage the face of the cabinet on the RH wall when open, but it's a minor inconvenience.
Remember when flying was kinda fun? Not an ordeal?
I'm so old that I remember when people would drive out to what is now ORD to park by the fence and watch the planes land and take off. Once my DM was driving home from a late RE deal and wandered onto the tarmac. We used little Midway in Chicago, where you'd be dropped off in front of the building and walk a few yards straight through it to your gate.
I have a big Simple Human trash can that I think is beautiful. I've seen other ones at malls that I thought were even prettier, but I didn't want to spend $1k on a trash can.
This whole thread is a horses for courses thing.
What I do gather from it though, is that trash cans in cabinets appear to be more work (more frequent changing) than my big can. The additional work is partly because the size of the bin in the cabinet is smaller, but the other part of the additional work is the effort to keep the garbage from stinking, whether that is layering newspaper on it and/or removing it daily. Daily trash takeout isn't going to kill me, but making life easier for me by having something that is less maintenance makes more sense to me.
Again, horses for courses.
Slimy. Totally just a way to stick it to the consumer. "They" want to make doctors post prices. Well it isnt just the medical field. This whole decorating/furnishing world is just fraught with ways to stick it to the purchaser. Let people know what things cost so they can make tradeoff decisions about what matters most to them in a project.
The drain should be centered on the floor, so between the wall and curb. The valve can go wherever you want it, and has nothing to do with the drain.
Such a small tray ceiing will only make the room feel smaller.
I love our UPS guy, Bud. And I like our USPS mail guy now, Frankie, who replaced that terrible shrew that everyone viscerally hated. They always deliver things right to our kitchen steps. And they are nice. Fed Ex is hit or miss for us. They always have different drivers on our route. They often deliver my stuff to my neighbors house. And one of their drivers in particular, perhaps frustrated by their workload, chucked 3 boxes, which contained 9 dozen candle jars, into our carport and shattered all of them. Never saw him again. They also often do not deliver the full order. More often than not, they will leave a box of candle jars or something on the truck and have to deliver it the next day. Fed Ex has it rough. Everything that is excessively heavy seems to be sent by FedEx. If I or my SO is home when they arrive we ALWAYS go help, as it is always something heavy, like the candle jars or the 60 lb blocks of wax I buy, or the new bookcase I just ordered. Tires we order always come by FedEx. They have a heavy workload. I have several truck drivers that used to work for Fed Ex and hating Chewy in particular, according to them, is in fact a sort of running joke. They have people who not only order several 50 pound bags of dog food or kitty litter or whatever, then they make demands on how to deliver them. A few of them have remarked that the customers were their main reason for leaving, because of their odd demands. Listening to them, I can understand. If you are unwilling to haul heavy items 5 extra feet for your own pets, why do you demand they do it? One of them, I remember, remarked that he thought one lady in particular, who was VERY specific on where she wanted her kitty litter delivered, complained every single delivery and was an overall whiner. He said he expected her to one day demand that he start changing her kitty litter and feeding her cats as part of his job. Of course he was being sarcastic but I understand the frustration.
I have only had something delivered by Amazon once. I was not even aware that Amazon had delivery drivers out in the sticks where we live. But it was a fairly large item. An "apartment size" fridge that I bought SO to put in his shop for Valentines Day. It is 90 pounds. I expected it to come by Fed Ex, but was surprised to see the Amazon truck on the Blink cameras. They left it at the very edge of the carport, and it poured rain later that day before I could get to it. It was okay though. I could not really expect them to bring it all the way into the carport. They delivered it, undamaged and on time sooooo.
I do think that delivering something to a closed garage door is weird. Other than something very large or heavy, one would not expect to look there for a delivery. Its a shame that UPS and fed ex cannot put small items like that into the mailbox, where it would be easily found and safe from such a fate. But their job is to deliver. That is it. They have a LOT of deliveries daily most likely do not have the time to be particular for everyone.
Let's put this into perspective, since all we see as recipients is what happens with our package at it's final destination. My DH was a FedEx delivery driver for over 20 years (stopped in 2022) and I helped him during peak times (hello holidays!) so I know what I'm talking about.
On average, his day would be comprised of 125-150 stops with 300-400 packages. His delivery range was very extensive and there were times had to drive 15 miles one way to deliver a package (30 miles round trip for one package). Some deliveries were to businesses and some to homes. His day started at 6AM and ended between 6 and 7PM. FedEx used to have a weight limit of 75 pounds but that was adjusted and he's delivered packages of 150 pounds or more. He would always do his best to deliver packages where they were sheltered from view or weather but sometimes it's just not possible. Plus he was a bit more conscientious than today's drivers (there's a story behind that but it's not relevant for this discussion).
If one requests special delivery and it takes "just 6 steps", consider there may be other special delivery instructions might be "just 15 steps" or "just around the back of the house" and so on. Multiply that by 300-400 packages at 125-150 stops. It's time and effort, which is already at a premium for people who do this job.
You know what I do when I'm expecting a delivery? I watch for my package to be out for delivery and then listen for the truck. I have a moderately long driveway and, because steps are important, I meet them at the truck for my package. If I can save them those 10-20 steps to my door, I've made their day just a little easier. I also offer water and snacks but I digress.
Amy, I can tell you having a dolly out would make your delivery person very happy.
Also - this is a high powered range with a hood that is the same width - it should be 6" wider than the range to even have a chance at collecting fumes.
Agree that the cabinets down to the counter need to go. Do these designers even cook anything? The space to either side of a range is SUPER VALUABLE for things like spices, add ins, spoons / rests, cookbooks, etc etc and they want to leave you about a 10" square immediately to the left and right? my dog would have his tongue all over everything in that space. (and my free flowing cooking style usually means he has plenty of things to choose from!)
My goodness, what are the credentials of your designer? This is for sure on him/her/them. @just_janni I'm not sure the hood is even as wide as the range, given the strange construction of the hood piece. Def redesign this whole thing... on the designer's dime.
I am so sorry - but if you cook, I feel like this is a huge design and implementation fail.
The space to the left won't ever be used / is too small / dangerous. And the space to the right appear to be in front of a ? mail sorting space? Where does everything GO?
(or am I an extremely weird cook? also possible!)
Your KD needs to fix this - and IMO it's more than just reordering the cabs to the immediate left and right
They look quite lovely and I can only imagine what you have spent on this.
Again - please hold them accountable for this error in design and execution.
I'll start with a couple of tips.
Your slab is concrete, cement is a component of concrete.
Your peak is called a gable.
For the best suggestions, it would be helpful to know more about the house and project.
What will the space be used for?
How will the existing rooms be affected?
Is the slab designed to support the addition? Is there any sort of foundation under the slab?
Have you checked with your city/town to verify this addition is allowed?
I see the slab is several steps down from the house floor. Are you planning on a new floor structure to eliminate this difference?
I don't understand how the house sits in relation to the street. A picture from further away showing the house and its surroundings will help.
This is not to scale, but it seems like a large part of the addition will function as a path to the existing front door.
Tell us more about your plans for the space, and maybe include a sketch of the existing first floor.
Such a small area with good light & exposure on 3 sides...no, I don't think it is too dark.
It didn't bother me in the past too much either. It may have changed, but I'm not sure once a pic is posted to Houzz it can be edited out by the user.
Anyone can check out your house on google maps .Waht could they possibly find out that is not on display for all to see. As for the ceiling color I like a bit lighter sky blue .
Slab style cabinets, IMO, are very boring & often cheap looking when painted. The variation of a wood grain gives the doors some interest. (One exception is high gloss laminate cabinet doors--a high end Euro look.)
I would add some pulls to those cabinets and leave them otherwise unchanged.
the countertops are solid surface white
The backsplash? Cabinets and counters are neutral--splash is one place you can use the blue or just about any other color you desire. Greens, aquas would work nicely with the wood.
It sounds like you prefer a cottage look. The slab front cabinets are modern. I don't think painting them and applying molding is going to help too much. They look old - normally I would suggest replacing the doors so you can get closer to the style you like, but I don't know that they're worth it. Be careful about putting molding on top of them. Because they're a simple style you can't put standard molding on them.
I love Shoji White too, but I would use Pure White for the trim and ceiling because Shoji White is an off white, not white. Then the next time you want to repaint you have a versatile trim color that you won't have to repaint. Shoji White will look good with those cabinets if you decide not to paint them. Maybe do all the walls first and see how you feel about the cabinets. Make sure Shoji White looks good with the countertop before proceeding. If the countertop is a white-white Shoji White may look yellow next to it. Since the picture doesn't show the countertops I don't know how it's going to look.
Is this the blue paint? https://www.farrow-ball.com/us/paint/hague-blue
Have you considered replacing just the doors, then painting the cabinets?
Faron, if you are going to quote, don't just cherry pick a phrase.
dries to the touch in as little as one hour, so you don't have to worry about leaving doors open for hours after painting due to sticking
OP needs a block resistant paint. PPG's Break Through is one. Dries very quickly so it can be a challenge to apply. Best sprayed but I managed to brush & roll it on Shaker/ style doors & drawers.
Link is to satin; also available in semi-gloss.
" These doors were painted around 2 years ago and they are still causing problems. "
I do not think putting more paint on top of this will fix it. It will just give you more have hardened paint to remove.
I agree. Sand them all down, and buy a good quality sealing bonding primer, after cleaning them well and prime and repaint, and leave the doors open for several days, so it can cure properly. Adding more to whats already there will accomplish nothing. You may check too, to see if doors are binding a bit, and if so, maybe a bit of extra sanding will take care of that problem. When I paint doors or cabinet doors, I dont fully close them for 6 weeks, and thats with the correct type paints.
I can't answer your technical questions, but I like the sample right next to the one you circled because it's a warm brown.
We need some feed back please answers to questions for sure you just use comments to carry on a discussion
Rework the support posts for the carport to eliminate the blocks. Don't enclose the carport. Screen (wood, metalwork...) the left front side of the carport for some privacy for the seating/ table area. New posts/ supports need to be integrated with the privacy screening design wise.
Would double sinks add value?
No way to know without knowing the size of the bathroom OR the size of the vanity.
AFAIC personally, two sinks would be a negative.
"Would double sinks add value? " No. Not one dime.
We are gutting the bathroom because it needs it.
My best advice to you is to make the en suite bathroom work for you in the next stage of your lives. We have been retired for many years now. Both of us were healthy and very active. My husband tore his Achilles tendon playing tennis (12 weeks in a non weight bearing boot) and four months later I suffered from long haul COVID which affected my hearing and balance. If our bathroom were not "injured/reserved" status, we both would have been in trouble.
Spend your money on making the bathroom "accessible". Hopefully, you will never need the advantages, but, if you are wishing for a long life together, something will turn up in your journey.
It need not look like a rehab bathroom...just consider the height of the toilet, a shower that has no huge curb and some grab bars.
A one-piece Corian shower base solves all your problems. Outperforms any tile in existence.
#3
Another vote for #3 and big numbers. Take your time to look for a font (style) you like. The black looks best. Make sure it’s easy to read from the curb.
People forget that the police, or an ambulance, need to know where you are if you call for help. Aesthetics are important, but visibility is vital.
As the wife of a retired police officer, he’ll be sure that no matter what we do it’s easy to see. We will also have the #’s on our mailbox at the road.
Lots of smart comments here that I appreciate.
I put in a single bowl 33" cleanup sink because it fit the exiting hole in the counter. After installing, I saw that I would be happy with a 30" sink. Workstation sinks don't appeal to me and, if you are planning a prep sink, too, I don't see any point of getting a workstation sink. (Less front to back space with a workstation sink because of the integrated ledges.) Space permitting, I think I would want a 24" prep sink to have plenty of space for veggies in the bottom with a colander/ garbage bowl/ saucepan/ Dutch oven, whatever, too.
My in-laws dislike their workstation sink. i wouldn't do it. They complained constantly of "stuff" being in the way aka the cutting boards and strainers always sitting there taking up half of the sink. because putting them away was a hassle and lugging them back out was hassle too. so the boards and racks always stayed in the sink meaning 50% of their sink was available for draining pots and washing them.
This meant that washing anything would splash water back up onto items drying on the rack and they would become re-wetted again. Is re-wetted a word? idk. basically if you wanted to dump a pot of seafood water, you'd manage to splash the gunk back up onto the chopping board that's taking up half your sink. Even if nothing it on it, you have to carry it out of your sink and then carry it back.
Oh and their dish drying rack was solid metal and rather heavy. So that's another thing. It's cumbersome to maneuver. A rollable $10 silicone one from Amazon is a lot easier to maneuver around.
And when I would visit I didn't like the idea of them serving food from off of the sink full of backsplash of god-knows-what bacteria. Probably isn't that unhygienic in the grand scheme of things but the thought of grabbing "finished" food from off of a dirty wet sink didn't feel right.
If your plan calls for a prep sink and a cleanup sink, i wouldn't bother making any of them workstation. Just make them decent sizes. Maybe 24 inch for the prep and 30" for the cleanup. Posting your layout would help
I have a work station sink and purchased the cutting board and drain rack that rolls up into a tube…just in case I did want to use them. They are handy…in narrow lower cupboard next to the sink and easy to pull out when needed….but I don’t.
Yeah. Could be more and I would replace all the shut offs with 1/4 turns while he is under there.
Get a stud finder and find the structural wall framing.
Photo of the new terracotta?
From what I can see, I would redo the hallway floor. Perhaps a square tile with less color variation--more neutral in style. Or oak to match the adjacent room. Because the staircase looks colonial and the existing floor is more rustic/ Spanish/ Mediterranean in style. If this is an entry area though, and depending on your climate, staying with tile may make sense.
All depends on what the rest of the house/ adjacent areas look like.
I think the hallway tile is awful so rip it out and then do the same for the hall and the bathroom.
I think you pretty much nailed it, Molly. The terra cotta on its own isn't that problematic, but in conjuction with the bathroom--well, then just a hard no.
My floating shelf wall brackets are like this, but some pairs actually have a bar in between. And they are set into the framing so the drywall can be mounted flush over them. So it's possible that there will be enough removal of drywall in four locations that it would just make more sense to take out one bigger piece of drywall, add the proper framing in the middle, and secure a third brass bracket in the center location. That may actually be less work.
Having wallpaper removed
Zinsser's Gardz is what I would use. Gardz locks down any residual wallpaper paste. Residual paste can play havoc with topcoats. Previous owner had painted over wallpaper paste (two story staircase and upper level hallway). Paint had crazed and was flaking off in spots. So I would never risk a paint job over wallpaper paste without using Gardz.
Gardz is a thin white (like skim milk) out of the can and dries clear. Not recommended to tint Gardz. I have used flat white paint that I had sitting around to help cover and then topcoating with the new preferred pricey stuff.
Yes.....do a couple full coats of Gardz!!! It DOES apply thinly.
OR- do a full coat of an OIL Primer, like Zinsser Coverstain.
Why did you start another post with the exact same topic and question? Delete this one and continue on the other one. You take up room on the first page of the forum from other people who also need help.
There are practical reasons for a bullnose on hardwood stairs. For one, a square edge is much more prone to splintering and damage and repair can be more involved (vs a rounded edge than can be sanded & eased to blend). A rounded edge is more comfortable ascending vs a hard square edge cutting into your foot. Also, it looks more bulky and, IMO, the build-up on these particular oak treads looks much too bulky.
If you use a runner on the stairs, it is going to wear more quickly on a square edge than on a rounded one.
That said, the red oak doesn't look bad with the stairs. If you use them, then I would use red oak in the upstairs hallway.
The vinyl treads look surprising good, at least in the photos. If you use them, then use the matching vinyl in the upstairs hallway.
I would be inclined to use the vinyl treads (even as much as I love hardwood) because the match looks so good.
Yes, you should check your state/ local code as to allowable variance in tread height. In my state (Wisconsin), up to 3/8" variance is allowed. So long as the vinyl overlay tread is 3/8" thick (or less), they would be allowed in Wisconsin.
Be very careful with the rise height. The cretin (or maybe just cheapskate) who built our house carpeted the top half of our stairs and put oak treads on the lower half.
When we bought, we had the carpet removed and replaced with oak. That contractor wasn't much brighter, and we had two risers the wrong height: in the middle and at the top.
Had to get a finish carpenter in to re-do the top half so the risers would all be the same.
Ann, yes. But the flooring upstairs is being changed so that 3/8" can be dealt with.
Where are you shopping? Links?
Are you sure there is a difference? That sink with "easy to clean commercial-grade satin" is just $400 at the Big A store. Currently, one in warehouse 'Like New' for $238.
(Kraus makes a nice sink.)
By contrast, here is a photo of an ELKAY CROSSTOWN farmhouse sink. It also has the advantageous corner drain:
Kraus makes 2 versions of the Standart Pro sink. Your choice of either a curved front apron or a flat apron front very similar to the Elkay Crosstown.
You can also get the Kraus with a corner drain. Kraus KHF410-33
Do it now, that is very reasonable. You will regret waiting
It is not a lot for that change. I'm sure you're exhausted by the all of the upcharges for various things, but this is a no brainer. Stair work is expensive because it's finish carpentry which requires skill, and it's much easier to do this at this point than later.
I would do it now.
It will not help. It was poorly planned.
Show the entire kitchen, Please. All angles
Oilychick that is another reason to use ONLY the corn chex--use one normal sized box. I make mine only at Christmas. One bag of pretzels goes in my candied pop corn and we will have some to coat in chocolate.
"Just go buy a bag or two and you are all set!!! Heck even Chex bags their own now!!!! "
Not so much.........the premade bagged mixes taste very little like the homemade version and are very, very salty. They are really a very mediocre substitute to homemade Chex mix.
Is the doll breakable? it seems like the doll could easily be knocked/bumped off the small table in either of the two table positions you show.
Do you have an alternative location that is less public/trafficked place for your collection?
What Jan said. The table is way too small.
You have some nice, albeit small, Lincoln items. Pulling them together in a larger group would give them more importance.
You’re not worried about visitors coming and going knocking into them? I would be. Personally, I’d put them in a place of honor further away from trafficways.
You cannot now as water will definitely find it's way in there and you will end up with mold. That should have been thought of and planned for in the planning stages.
A Shaker drawer doesn't pair well with any waterfall. The internet does "lie' and waterfall has a far better pairing with slab front cabinetry.
Leave it alone, and move on.
I agree, I think it all looks good and your getting hung up on the minutia and not the overall project.
How rare to see a post about countertops where the comments are not "wow, your job is F'ed up, rip it out, hire someone new." If these eagle eyed harsh critics are telling you that it looks good, I'd consider your kitchen to have passed with flying colors.
I would not want drawers flush with countertop. Though, I am surprised this conversation was not had a some point with your designer, fabricator, installer around what to do here.
andrea-
Did you ever check to see whether the reverse switch was the issue?
You obviously put side pressure on the drill,
instead of pushing straight into the bit.
You also don't realize you did that, but you
did. That's the only way a good bit could
snap off like that.
Glue won't withstand the torque that would need to be applied...
Rectangular one looks best.
I suggest you try one at a time using Command™ hooks, or leaning them on the top of the table (perhaps use an easel for the round one, maybe placed on a sturdy box, for correct height), and live with each for at least a week. That will help you decide which looks better to you—which is what really counts.
I will try that. We recently repainted so I’m trying not to make too many mistakes hanging things up.
For me the vases are blah take them away get a larger piece of art then a vase only if filled with frest flowers I think the vases rob the credenza of being the star in the space .IMO less is for sure more in this case.
Looks a bit to me, like some of the liner is still stuck to the bottom of the drawer, so no, I would never try to paint it. Just put some new lining in there. I too, like left over pieces of either formica or vinyl in mine.
Find the total lumen output of the fluorescent bulbs in the old fixture and shop for a new fixture with the same/ slightly less lumens.
Lumen output of fluorescents degrades fairly rapidly so factor that in. The actual lumen output in old/ older tubes will be less than the bulbs are rated for when new. To be safe, chose a fixture/ LED tubes that are dimmable and install a compatible LED dimmer switch if the lights seems too bright.
To avoid yellow lights in LED's, look at the color temperature, something no less than 4000K.
I like 4000K but you could do 3500K less than that and the yellow comes into play. 4000K is bright but in theright fixture you easily get to enjoy the brightness .
You need to look at the Lumens, Kelvin and CRI of any fixture you are considering.