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How about having whoever you bought it from just replace it. You don’t have to take on the repair of something that arrived damaged…
So, no disaster here...just return it to Home Depot. Then add your review with others who determined the vanity and top were sub par.
These look like the 80s cabinets we had in our condo. What we did was to put new (wood or painted wood) door fronts on the existing cabinet boxes, and with new hardware looks totally different.
don't add any hardware. those cabs are MDF and melamine. either live with it like that, or save up and replace them.
if you look up "how to paint 1980's melamine/wood kitchen cabs", you see lots of how to's.
but for all of that work, maybe just replace the cabinets? or even reface the doors/drawers?
Aren't those cabinets 40 years old? I had them in a rental where I lived in the late '80's and I don't think they were new then. They have lived a long and productive life. I realize it's expensive to replace them, but it doesn't make any sense to put a new, expensive countertop on them. Even if you paint them you can't put pulls on them because the wood edges are the pulls. Refacing can cost as much as new because the doors are the most expensive part of cabinets. Don't waste your money on halfway measures unless you really can't see ever being able to replace them. If so, look at Formica for the tops.
Hydrangeas and azaleas grow pretty big with good size root systems, and I’m not sure they are happy pot plants…? Not sure I have ever seen larger ones in pots.
Sorry, you said rhododendrons, not azaleas. Rhododendron and hydrangeas don’t have really deep root systems, but if you want them to grow to 4 to 5 ft tall, I don’t see them happy in pots. Maybe small varieties of hydrangeas in pots, but only about 3’ max.
You can very easily grow full sized hydrangeas in containers - I have several that are approx. 5'x5'. And many other BLE's are well adapted to container culture and will reach 5' tall or more, as long as they are in a container properly sized to accommodate them.
I'm more concerned about the availability of light under cover.
Fwiw I've grown rhododendrons, azaleas and hydrangeas in large pots.
not black, something light, like linen or a cotton slub.
If you have a local Benjamin Moore store, do they have a decorator? Our store has a wonderful decorator who will come to your house and help with color, based on the light. Is every room going to be painted the same color? And yes, absolutely get the floors refinished before you pick paint color(s).
If you are only changing the floor color and the wall color you need to consider the things that will stay. Kitchen cabinets, countertops, bathroom vanities, tile flooring in the bathroom. For me it included my furniture. I have MCM teak furniture throughout my home that I had no intention of replacing ever.
Do you want to paint all the trim and doors? If not, you need to consider what white is already there.
Another thing to think about is how the colors you love will work with the things that must stay. We all have a few colors that call out to us when we are shopping and say "Buy Me", :"Take me home" "You love me". . . The color shows up in art and vases and bedding and towels and pillows . . .
Pick your flooring first. It covers a huge amount of space and will influence the wall color choices.
Once you have nailed down the flooring, look at the various whites and light neutrals next to a sample of the flooring in natural daylight. In natural daylight you will see all the sins. Some whites will look pink next to the floor, some will look yellow, some green, some gray. Find the ones that works in natural daylight and you will know which color family to target and can go lighter or darker.
I generally choose a main neutral (can be white) for all the main areas of the home and add color or deeper neutrals to bedrooms and bathrooms.
Need to know your flooring and main space neutral before deciding on those colors, but sometimes we know that we love some special color for our master suite or fell in love with this great wall paper that must go into our powder room. Why paint it white if you know you really love dark green?
I'm not trying to be funny or anything, but whose going to see anything in your home from the arch above the front door. I'd be more concerned about the actual glass front door.
My preference would be to tile - higher-end look than a shower pan….
What are you thinking are the pros and cons of a shower pan vs. tile?
Corian can make a shower pan any size and shape. It is nothing like a fiberglass pan, and because the color goes all the way through, it can be refinished if it is ever needed.
We installed a Kohler cast iron shower receptor (pan) in our guest bathroom. It looks very nice, and no worries about grout cracking or becoming grungy.
We need to see the rest of the room. There is something off in this furnishings layout because a large lounge chair should not be positioned behind the sectional as you currently have it.
Right now your children's portraits are going to make a better bigger statement if you arrangement like this on a different wall. The mirror and framed items are just too small for that size wall.
See the guide to cabinet hardware in the link below:
As long as what you choose is done consistently and with intention, you can do whatever you like. Long drawers may need either longer pulls or multiple pulls. I ended up choosing one for everything with no variation. Mainly because I thought it would be more cohesive than multiple sizes when I had many different sizes nearby each other, some that would’ve warranted longer pulls and some that wouldn’t have. I wasn’t comfortable putting the same size on drawers that were 3” different but putting longer ones on a drawer that went 3” different in the other direction. I put the very same pulls upright on all my uppers as well. The same is true regarding where you place the pulls. Whatever you like, but with intention and consistency.
Or you could list the drawer widths : ) for us and how many each?
First question is what colors do you want?! Reds/pinks or blues or yellows or ?
I’m open to anything! I tend to gravitate towards lime green & purple plants
A floor plan would help! I had said you should move the dishwasher from right next to the corner sink, moving the small drawer cabinet to go in between. But then how much room do you have between the dishwasher and the island? Enough to even open the dishwasher? A floor plan would answer that. Island is too square. Looks like the island could be longer without blocking passage to the door?
I agree, a white shaker is timeless and classic. We're doing a modernish, farmhouse-ish new build. My painted cabinets are all shaker front (various colors, from BM Classic gray, neutrals, to BM Hale Navy). My wood cabinets (not painted) are all face frame slab front, which I think is very clean and modern, yet also elegantly timeless given the wood. So, mixing and matching is OK!
No to the sconces. They will not provide the quality of light needed for this room.
Yes to table lamps
Yes to floor lamps
Yes to picture lights
Yes to plant up lights
Yes to downlights in the ceiling if possible.
The sconces you selected IMO are more suited to a bathroom.
For sconces in a living area, consider sconces with shades. They project a softer light in the room.
Touch ups will all show unless the paint job has been within the last year. Better to invest in all fresh paint.
Personally I would not choose “a look” with a high maintenance profile…there are so many other things I want to do… besides cleaning…
Don’t go for the Zellige. If that’s the look you want, there are now lots of ceramic tiles available with the Zellige look. If you want tiles you get grout, not sure what all the fuss is about grout…