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Try "recessed finger pull" and "cutout cabinet pull" In the meantime, you can swap one of the less used four with the busted one.
This may be helpful https://www.remodelista.com/posts/remodeling-101-cutout-cabinet-pulls/
I'd remove all, paint carefully inside!!! the hole in gloss black : ), Stick a finger in. done.
Are you set on LVF or would you consider new carpet? The LVF may not look as high in quality as your kitchen's tile floor.
I think wood could really look nice in your space with that fireplace.
Can you do engineered hardwood?
If LVP is your only option it certainly is better than carpet. And there are many colors out there. I agree with @deegw in some neighborhoods LVP is very popular.
@grapefruit1_ar Tile is not my favorite at all!
Thanks for additional photos of your space.
If you love or like the set and you have happy memories associated with it, bring it home. It looks like good quality. If it is difficult for you to make decisions right now, bring the whole set home. You can decide about the chairs later. It can take quite a while to find a new set of chairs.
The cane backs can be repaired with new cane if you like the chair style.
If you have the option of bringing home the crystal chandelier, it could add a beautiful sparkle to your dining room.
Do you have a separate dining area or dining room? It looks like the one near the kitchen is already nicely furnished.
Edited to add: is the room with the two sofas a flex room that would be a formal dining room if you brought the set home?
I’m kind of fond of china cabinets as dust- protection for lots of things— dusting is increasingly no fun! . As pictured above, I have books in one along with some favorite decor items. Yes, I still have open bookshelves with books & other stuff.
I like the streamlined style ( though mine are not). I do think it’s all a matter of what you really want, need and will use. Sentiment is great if it’s good memories but not enough to let things take over your space.
I have also eventually passed along furniture initially taken from downsizing or departed loved ones because I couldn’t decide in the timeframe given. Or had some decor ideas that just didn’t work out. And also later downsized myself. Nothing of great value, it would have just been donated anyway. I’m not suggesting you get sucked back in if you already have decided to let it go, and just saying that sometimes it’s hard. But also can be hard to get something carted off from your house later.
OTOH I have strong reactions to certain colors or shapes or just stuff— both yay and nay- and can walk away from someone else’s cherished item if I just don’t like the color, or treasure some little dinky thing that meant little to them if I love how it looks.
I think the set is beautiful. Especially the China cabinet, which might be coming back in. I agree it’s great to display anything, minus the dust!
I wouldn’t paint that wood! If you hate it dark, you could strip and stain it. Even bleach it.
The table looks quality too.
Try to get quality furniture nowadays without spending a years salary. And then it still can be questionable.
If the chairs are good, fix them up.
The style of everything seems timeless to me, and could fit into most decors.
Does your area require a garage for every house? Check local rules at city hall.
It's done frequently where I live, especially in my neighborhood of small 1950s houses. So many sad rooms with large windows "views" of parked cars. If possible, put the bathroom on the front (driveway) side of the space. If the bedroom has to go on the front side, see if you can install an attractive tiny courtyard, screened by an attractive wood fence, between the driveway and the bedroom wall.
Location dependent, the slab will not be insulated & waterproofed. Garage's in many areas are framed in 2x4's with minimal insulation, and house walls with 2x6's and much denser insulation.
Will a 36 x 36 inch chair fit through your door? A smaller chair such as a rocking chair may be better.
Where is your changing table going to be?
This is all super helpful! Here was the other option.
The bookshelf and wall shelf can go next to the crib.
The door is standard, so 36inches.
Changing table will be a pad on the top of the dresser.
As drawn, the door opens in a triangle with an acute angle. It's getting the 36 by 36 " chair through that skinny open triangle that needs to be looked at. Take a 36 inch square of cardboard and see if it fits. The approach area from the hallway may generous enough to position the chair well.
Most houses weren't designed with offices and playrooms, so you can try some other ideas out as they get older.
1- How old are your kids now?
2- How many hours do you spend online in school every day? Or is it the older kid who is online in school?
Currently, the nook off the kitchen is being used for plants. All the windows on the first floor go almost to the floor. Is it okay to put furniture in front of the windows?
My personal rule for "interior design" at your life stage is that it's ok to do pretty much anything that makes daily life function well. Your family's needs change so frequently at this stage of life. You just move stuff around between rooms, acquire Goodwill and Ikea items as needed, discard as needed, until all kids are in school 6 hours a day, the toys are much smaller and easy to store, and your lifestyle and furniture needs become more stable.
Try out your idea: move all the stuff and shoes to the back entry. Wait a month. If shoes and stuff have reappeared in the front hall, you will need closed-door storage.
Thanks guys! These ideas are exactly what Pinterest helped me to decide, I’ve ordered my table and am looking for a mirror and nice accents will post here when I’m done in about a week!
@maureen that is my style!!! Thanks
It's useful to explore ideas on your own before talking to an architect. Have you already torn it down to the studs? Do you have a floor plan as it is now? Have you settled on a budget?
Try google's Sketch Up for making floor plans with measurements.
ARCHITECT. Stat.
A LOT of wasted space and poor planning with hallways in ALL of your plans. You need someone more qualified as others have said. Set up a part of your budget for a good architect. Even though keeping the existing plumbing wall may be a cost savings you is it costing you the best design. You may want to pursue other options as this could be hindering the best design or NOT? Who knows without proper analysis of what you have and what could be. Stop wasting your time and money and get some pro help.
Remove closet rod, its supports, and everything on the shelf.
Move the shelf down to about 6 or 10 inches above your wine rack. Give it a fresh coat of paint. It's for setting wine bottles on while you are choosing or displaying a couple of bottles temporarily.
If you have a light in the closet, hang a vineyard or travel poster above the relocated shelf.
If you do not have a light, hang a large mirror above the relocated shelf.
Add a thermometer/hygrometer in the closet to monitor temperature and humidity
A closet is not the right place to store wine.
Either have a temperature-controlled space for it, or admit you want to show off the wine you have. In that case, several wine display racks can be considered and they can be mounted directly to the wall.
I have a few questions...
What are the dimensions on the interior of the closet? width x depth x height
Are you willing to match the height of the adjoining door?
How many wine bottles will be stored?
Do you want to store anything other wine related items in the closet?
Will you be keeping the greige siding color or repainting the trim and siding both?
It's April and shrubs are about to bloom through May. I suggest pruning and transplanting after you see what blooms that you like. Cut some flowering branches to bring inside.
The overgrown juniper could be removed immediately.
If you must repaint the railing soon, try using the same greige as the siding. The railing will be far less visible.
Thanks for that tip, Patricia!
I would clean up entrance from bushes to make it more open and inviting.
Great lamp. Boxerpal shows several excellent choices in the right shape and size. Please post an update when you are ready.
Walmart...2 shades for $32 click on link
The listing now says "under contract". Did they get it?
On the other hand, looking at the map, the power station is awfully close. I image you can hear it from the house. and its closeness probably has something to do with the pricing.
Something was up with the pricing, something wrong with the house? Looking at other listings in the area, they are not as nice, their lots aren’t as nice, but they are priced over $50k more. At least one has been ”flipped” which I would take with a grain of salt. I’m kind of curious now.
In this market you can be serious about buying and take 2 years to buy. I have a niece and a nephew that bought homes in the past year and they both took 2 years to find the right home. My niece actually found the "right" home on her first viewing, but didn't know it. Then looked for 2 years a bought a home in the same neighborhood and was quite similar to the first one she looked at.
You have a lovely formal room with traditional style. Pillows with corded edges or fringe will look much better than the casual style without corded edges. For colors, try one of the oranges or a reddish brown from the colorful fabric on the chair. Two per sofa is enough.
Ps- Patricia, I think there was a typo in the first line. You wrote the “very light tel”. I was unclear what that meant. (Also the throw blanket on the seating is just for our dog during the day, it gets removed when anyone comes over).
& ps#2: Or maybe you meant the throw blanket on the footstool in front of the chair? Sorry, I should have clarified. That is just temporary. We are going to get it slipcovered. :)
Bring the biscuit sink home and take a look. If you are changing your lighting, Do that first since the colors will look different.
I see the logo in a rectangular, but not in the oval.
If undermounting and if the drain is centered in the bowl, perhaps you can rotate the sink 180 degrees so the logo is towards the front and less in your face?
Otherwise, I would go with Patricia's suggestion to replace the toilet and get a logo-less sink.
Although you want to avoid it, re-tiling the whole shower is the only way to make it waterproof. Re-tiling is vastly less expensive than repairing water damage later.
For new tiles, look at Daltile and American Olean. They make several shades of white in several sizes with all the trim pieces.
Hmm. I'd think seriously about ripping out all the shower tile and replacing it with a solid surface surround in white.
I think you could use the tile you have on your floor if they are suitable material for shower....it's a choice that doesn't add an additional color to your room. If you are able, redo the entire shower area but sounds like you already said that's not in the budget. As an intermediate, can you at least remove another row of tile so your shower tile color transition is at the same height as your color tile row in your tub area? I can't see well enough to tell where the next row of tile in your tub area ends.
Flat panel, similar to the originals. They were probably not painted originally. Do test for lead on the painted wood trim, too, if you haven't already done so.
Are you doing an Ikea kitchen? If so, please let me live vicariously through you and install the Stensund cabinet doors/drawers! We also have a 1950's traditional home (although not a ranch) - if our space wasn't wonky and requiring of custom cabinets, I would have totally gone with the Stensund design - to me, they strike that balance between sleek/modern/simple with a bit of style that leans into the traditional. Just a thought!
I think most shaker doors are going to be a veneered recessed panel.
Seven out of ten have white sofas. All ten rooms have higher than average ceilings.
It's a brilliant selection! The last few ones are definitely my favorite. TYSM for sharing this.
I have the same issue with wanting a display like this without the fireplace. We’re planning on doing this same look but with a long shelf running under the tv for display.
Will you show the rest of the room? You might be able to shop your space as well as rearrange but it's hard to say without seeing the rest of the room.
You should be able to find some inexpensive pillow covers for your sofa pillows. Get a pattern with brown, blue and green or just a plain bright blue or green. It will help the eye tie the sofa and the art together. Lowering the art and collage, as mentioned above, will also help as well.
If you don't have the money for a frame. you could start a gallery ledge with your painting as an anchor. Fill the ledge with other pieces when you can afford them. In the meantime, you could put a few succulents on it.
You can wrap your sofa cushions with polyester quilt batting from JoAnn's, clean the covers, then put the covers back on. They may need two full/double size quilt battings. They will look much better when filled out and plump.
A long rug in the hallway and large rugs everywhere else will reduce echoing. Rugs will add color and texture to the bland gray furniture. You also need large artwork, at least poster-size 24 by 36 inches.
The slight color mismatch between the floor marble and the top marble will be much less noticeable (and no one will care) once you have added rugs and artwork with character and style.
You are creating a beautiful space and you stopped into Houzz because you know the marble mix is off. How important is it to you? Can you live with it? For me, I might live with it for a while, cover the marble with lights and Nick knacks and maybe the mismatch would fade in my mind. But, and i think you know, it is probably bothering you. Could you eventually recover those tables with walnut? Something warm and wonderful in your glorious space?
Look how the walnut just merges with the marble. It is a true match
You’re judging your choices too soon. I love the soft colors. Here’s a little mash up with the addition of a rug.
Use your guitars again: Sign up for weekly half-hour guitar lessons. Many teachers will work with you by Zoom or Facetime.
You can move your furniture to get a better view of the lake (see L-desk swap above). No need to borrow money to put in a window for the next owner.
Worn vinyl flooring can often be improved in appearance by cleaning thoroughly, using vinyl repair glue to fix seams and peeling areas ($7 obtain at hardware stores, online, flooring stores), and then giving a couple coats of an acrylic floor polish (do this when you can keep the windows open in the spring). If you can't find acrylic floor polish, good old Mop N Glo will work well after the floor has been thoroughly scrubbed. Worn vinyl flooring is a piece of cake to wash clean after it gets a couple coats of polish.
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@Steve A
This is very helpful... You must love music and of course your guitars. Don't sell them and don't borrow money. Don't worry about the floors. Together the gang on Houzz can give you tips and help you fix everything else and the floors will be background noise. You want your space to be about creating memories and comfort for you, your daughter, your dog and your cat.
One fun idea for color is to take your guitar and use it as a template. Take a pencil and have your daughter hold the guitar on the wall while you take a pencil and trace the guitar. Later find some paint and paint the inside of the drawing shape of the guitar on the wall.
No need to paint the wall.. Just the inside of the guitar shape would add some art to your space
Or hang your guitars on the wall.
And yes start with one room at a time if that feels easier. But.. I recommend you choose two colors to focus on.
Wishing you luck on your space
Put up a new soffit. It is impossible to make waste pipes look attractive in a home situation, especially in a food preparation area. Add sound insulation in the soffit.
Carry it all the way across and paint the same color as the walls. Over time, you will never look at it again. Just have it built as small as possible.
This kitchen had that kind of pipe halfway above the slider and it carried across to the cabinet on the right side of the stove hood! Soffit was very overbuilt so we were bale to make it much smaller.
I like Boxerpals idea to make the soffit look like cabinets. If you could use more storage, continuing the cabinets down either side of the sliding door might be very useful. I couldn’t find closed upper cabinets for the mock-up, but this is the general concept. I’ve left open wall space beside the doors for stacked drapes.
Are these your own clothes you are selling?
Are all the closets are full of your own clothes?
The important thing: What is your question?
If you need help organizing, you can go the DIY route with books and videos, or you can hire a professional organizer to help you. I’ve done both. I’m very proud of what I did the first way, and I learned a lot that has stood me in good stead. But also took two years to get my home in order. With the help of a personal organizer, it would likely have taken less than a month; maybe only a couple of weeks. And the organizer didn’t make decisions for me. She made it easy for me to make my own decisions. Which do you need to save more of: Money? Or time?
The console is the star. Move the distracting small things elsewhere, then add a rug you love. With the recliner sofa, use side tables with lamps.
@lawsonch19 if I remove the flowers from vase what do I put in it?
Vases can be assembled as just vases. They don't require flowers.
Are you furnishing the house from scratch to live there yourself? Do you have a budget range in mind?
Settling on a paint color in advance can save time but it means that the upholstered furniture has to coordinate with the walls rather than vice versa. Paint color trends have changed to much lighter shades in the last few years. Have you considered priming the walls in white, selecting new upholstered pieces, and then finalizing your paint choice?
@apple pie order: What a great idea to prime the walls in white then making the furniture decisions, then choosing the final wall color--filing away that good tip. I do believe with all those trees out there, this room will be on the dark side when trees are leafed out and dark, matching floors are installed. Because the fireplace dominates the room colorwise, it should be a huge factor in deciding on painT. Going a light warm white would be a better way to go. Maybe call in a color consultant after the floors go in? It's money very well spent when moving into a new house.
I was once so attached to Benjamin Moore's warm and creamy Navajo White in a previous home that I foolishly insisted on it in a different house. But the new house had a different light orientation, different furnishings, etc. Unfortunately, in the new house, Navajo White looked yellow and somewhat dreary, not warm and glowing as it had in our old house. A house's natural light, the amount of it coming in, plus furniture choices are huge factors in determining wall paint choice.
Back to the trapdoor idea. Is it possible to flip a switch from one set of speakers to another If you installed a duplicate pair of speakers (near the trapdoor's electronics) in the room below? Or do the two 180-pound amplifiers have to be within a foot or so of the speakers?
My first wife never liked my Magneplanar speakers.
What about the second and third wives?
I hope someone else lends a hand with advice. Someone with direct experience growing roses in the Bay Area, and/or having delayed or hastened blooming to coordinate with a special event. I don't even grow Austin's anymore, sorry.
Moses
You could ask the David Austin Roses company.
What zone or geographic area are you in? Annuals or perennials? Maximum height one foot, six inches or a couple inches?
Start with pressure washing the hardscape to make it look fresh and clean.
We are in Zone 5. We get all 4 seasons. We would like low lying perennials. Would like them 6” tall is all. And colorful.. I would consider doing some annuals in a few places. Would like a few flagstone.
Thanks for info. Your zone is way outside my expertise. Would you consider cross posting in the "Perennials" discussion area? I think you can add another discussion area to "Design Dilemma" by editing your post. You may also be able to add "Perennials for Zone 5" to your title since Houzz software lets you edit for some while.
That being said, adding some color with short "species tulips" and miniature daffodils could work for spring. IIRC, the bulbs need to go in the ground before Thanksgiving, before hard freezes. The dirt will need to be renewed with loads of compost and some fertilizer for best results after having spent shrubs removed. The photo shows larger varieties, but conveys the idea beautifully.
What kind of image do you want to project as a financial advisor? Are your clients wealthy or middle class? Professional landscaping and cleaning up the parking area would give a good first impression. A decorator or designer would be useful in turning a dentist's office into a professional financial advisor's office.
What looks the sorriest to me is the asphalt. I'd find some pavers or brick to replace the front walkway section. I'd think about how much parking you really need and replace some of it with some greenery, if you don't need it all. If not, find some places to put planters.
I'd powerwash the brick. If you need to replace the roof, I'd go with a brown (not that reddish color) but not if you don't need to. I would not paint the brick.
Some pavers would work very well! Update that, it would make a big difference
Hang a shower squeegee inside the shower. Show guests what will happen to the water when they open the door, and explain that squeegeeing the shower door before opening it is necessary. If they can't manage a squeegee, hang a small towel over the door for them to mop off the door.
It's not just the door swing, it's any and all water remaining on the shower floor : ( when the out swing door is opened..
When folks shower, the want out when finished, and they want a darn towel!
Fix it with a slide, or just be glad it is only guest space.
Thank you for the suggestion of the door slide. I didn't even know that was a thing, but seems to make a lot of sense and would fix the issue. Yes, (lol) I am thankful it is a guest space. I use it to wash my dogs! They don't care if water is on the floor anywhere - ha!
A basket of dog toys and the tv remote control. There are enough decorative items elsewhere that show well.
I love your space. It's beautiful! I love the dark painted built in with the white accent pieces. The little blue item while sweet doesn't fit well. I would also take the planter away and maybe use large coffee table books.
Less is more.
I agree with @Boxerpal - love your space - your furniture pieces seem MCM era to me. I like the touches of yellow / gold / white throughout. Does that vintage pattern chevron afghan live on sofa? Yes, please! Love the circle lamp on console table. I agree the small Wedgewood pedestal dish doesn’t fit coffee table & the planter too. I mentally rearranged some pieces - more than what you asked I know but I do it in my own home a lot. It gives me a fresh perspective on my treasures. The 2 pretty white vases on console table - vintage I think. They would look great on console in dining area & show up much better - one on each end framing the art. There’s too much going on behind the sofa with them & lamp & also with the lovely collection in the china cabinet. Removing the vases makes items in cabinet grab the eye instead of stopping at the 2 tall vases which show up better on their own & with a wall behind them & the overhead lighting you have. On coffee table, leave the tray & place the gold ”balloon” dog that’s on TV console in the tray with the coasters & TV remote & something else that fits with dog figurine. The horse on dining console would be great on TV console against its black color & it would show up more too. I thought the balls of twine in covered jar would be great as centerpiece on dining table. The texture & colors would be nice with those great chairs.
A combination gray and brown roof would look better than plain gray. "Weathered Wood" is a very popular choice that goes with many houses' brick and siding colors. Choose a fascia board paint that's gray-brown to blend with the roof or a color that blends with the powerwashed bricks. Test ochre (reddish brown) and chocolate brown for other trim.
I suggest you start with replacing the roof then match the paint colour and test before proceeding. I suggest a darker roof than the pale grey which is being considered for contrast with the beige bricks. Your windows look dark but hard to tell the colour, I would paint them black. The house doesn't have any architectural elements so improving the landscaping and creating a nice entrance way will contribute to a new fresh modern look. Install large black sconces and street numbers.
I would ask to pick the roof color. A light to medium gray is not a good color for the roof. A brown roof would go much nicer with your brick. Make sure you get someone to power wash the brick, that actually knows how to do brick, so it doesnt get damaged. Nice house.
Edgecomb Gray, the one on the right.
Given your preferences for a tan/taupe color scheme, consider exploring warm, neutral tones with a low to mid-range Light Reflectance Value to complement the existing elements and make the trim pop. Colors like Sherwin-Williams Accessible Beige or Benjamin Moore Revere Pewter could be great options to harmonize with the Carrera Deluxe countertop.
Thank you so much. This site, and the people on it, are really just awesome! I so appreciate everyone’s “eye” which I do not have!
Have a piece of black marble the thickness of the lip cut to fit the bottom. Then fit it in place and caulk around it. Use a bit of shelf liner on top, the no-slide rubbery kind that's mostly holes, to keep things from falling out. Wash it every week.
A border could look look like a pasted-on afterthought compared to the nice edges the niche already has.
Looks like an edging was used - it was just turned so that the thick part is flat inside the niche - the thin part was faced out along the sides.
The niche should be waterproofed - if schluter used + prefab (assuming correct install install). I think adding a solid surface to the bottom of niche (Corian or quartz?) + pitched correctly would be the least invasive (as suggested by @joseph_corlett above). Silicone the inside part of where the solid surface bottom shelf meets the back wall tile + pitch it correctly.
OR
Have it torn out and redone with the correct pitch (as it should have been originally). You have the right to expect that it was constructed correctly.
I just don’t know how you tear it out without compromising the waterproofing on the walls. I assume that it can be done using the correct Schluter products???
Your installer could actually then custom size (enlarge) the niche to line up with your tiles - based upon my research (a lot of time over on John Bridge Tile Forum) - installers with the most experience/qualifications build their own niches - they don’t use pre made ones.
You also could get rid of the thick divider - and instead use the same solid surface for your shelf + sides of niche (totally eliminating the need of using Schluter trim - I’m not a fan of it - except the way Beth H used it in her niche - looks really nice).
Here’s how this niche was installed.
These are lovely rooms with beautiful countertops and attractive furniture. You don't need a chandelier. Choose a simple solution: Have the electrician install another recessed light in the hole. If a must-have chandelier miraculously appears in the next few years, you can change out the recessed light easily.
When your eye is tired of seeing the same decor, the thing to do is remove the decor. Pretend you are going to paint and take down everything smaller than a basketball. Buy some fresh daffodils to fill a vase. Give yourself a chance to feel the warmth and colors of spring in an uncrowded room.
Do you like the gold color of the rug in the tv area? It could be a cue to a new wall paint color.
To see how thick the panelling is, simply unscrew a light switch cover and take a look. I suspect you have real boards, not just 4 by 8 foot thin panelling. You can post an additional photo here to get opinions.
Yes, having a professional contractor paint two coats of paint is not cheap.
Gray floors are not in fashion in many areas. Gray has been trending down in popularity. It is better to buy a trend on the way up or to buy a classic floor such as a natural wood. For a gym with exercise equipment, a mix of flooring will be best, just like in commercial gyms.
Can you also post pics of your kitchen? Am I correct that you are going to be using the same flooring in there too? You can't make these decisions in isolation.
You can put enough paint on those walls to change the color, but the texture will remain, which is why I suggested changing to drywall.
My parents built a house in 1977, when paneling was all the rage. When she tired of the paneling, she painted over it - below you can easily see the wood grain (which was not nearly as pronounced as in your basement)
This is a good size space for a washer/dryer pair. There's enough room for laundry supplies but probably not long term storage for other things. The floor tile looks fine, nice and neutral.
A few questions:
1- Do you currently dry things on the line near the ceiling?
2- Would you like to dry things on hangers on a closet rod, say above the dryer?
3- Do you use the ironing board in the bathroom or take it somewhere else to do ironing? If you use it here, plan for a place for the hot iron to cool off.
A pair of closed-door cabinets would be useful. If you'd like to hang shirts to dry, adding a short closet rod between the cabinet side and the wall would fit.
Try clearing out everything above the washer and dryer. Use up the unfavorite detergents and sort through any clutter. You can replace the laundry basket with one that fits in your new cabinets, perhaps a rectangular plastic "milk crate" style would fit.
Thanks for info. Since the laundry basket is used a lot, I suggest using a skinny one on the floor next to the washer instead of putting a laundry basket with dirty clothes in a closed cabinet. My guess is that you could scoot the machines over enough for a 10"-12" wide basket like this one: https://www.containerstore.com/s/closet/hampers-carts/sterilite-sorting-hamper/12d?productId=11001622 for $13. That means moving the ironing board out of the bath room.
Target makes a skinny basket just under 14" wide, too for $8.
For $8 or $13, it would be easy to try out the skinny laundry basket to see if it works for you.
Also, if the base of the basket is skinnier than the top while the top is just an inch or so too wide, you can sometimes drop the basket in place so that its top lip sits on the edge of the washer. The base won't hit the ground, but that's okay, it's easier to fish things out or empty it when raised up high.
Something like this….
My bathroom measures 56”wide( just enough to accomodate a washer and dryer) by 10 feet. same set up as yours. Wall to wall Ikea cabinets over the w/d. l used to have wire shelving, but cabinets are a much cleaner look. For years a friend thought there was a shower behind the curtains. i keep them closed.
Here is a beautiful colonial green house with darker green around the front door: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/first-snow--633387424605530/
IMO the area could benefit by replacing the modern steel screen/storm door with a vintage wood door with replacement glass/screens.
Where are the grids on the windows. They appear foreign to this home.
Take out the overgrown evergreens and come up with a new landscaping plan for the front of your home.
https://www.vintagedoors.com/tscreenstorm.html
Wow - thank you so very much everyone!
If you like the wood, consider panelling the wall with pantry, fridge and cabinet with wood that matches the cabinets. It will look intentional, not make-do. Not much wood would be needed.
And..doors a good idea,of course
Also in that location..doors that open from the bottom..and lift up ….would make the most sense
If you are doing the other two bathrooms first in a current style, you may find that the master bathroom looks less current in comparison. That may affect your shower remodelling decision.
With a room that is so style-specific, I would not keep any remnants of the existing bathroom. You're just rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic.
Gut it and create a refined timeless bathroom. Either contemporary or traditional, but classic.
Here are two photos from your wishlist. If you want your rooms to have some similar aspects, start with very large artwork on the walls (the middle of the artwork should be at your nose level) and large, light colored rugs on the floors. Slightly patterned or textured white rugs are much easier to keep clean-looking than the plain white rugs shown in the designer rooms.
Your rooms have a lot of small artwork and curios scattered around. Try grouping the small artwork together. The curios don't need to all be displayed at the same time- try displaying a third of or half of them, then change them out when the seasons change.
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You need to rearrange your furniture in the living room - for starters.
In my area, lava rock fireplaces are built over a brick structure. You can have it removed. If it makes you more comfortable to keep historic features of the house, you can reuse the rock in a garden wall.
Yes, your living room looks like a natural history museum. I expect dinosaurs to come out of the fireplace.
I don't think painting this rock will help because of how 3D the projections are and how porous the texture is. I'd talk to contractors about removal and starting over with a something you like.
Start by removing a small area to see what is behind and what you are getting in to.
The ivory background of the rug or the limestone color of the fireplace would be good to try. Or you could try patterned curtains - check Anthropologie's website for some unusual prints and woven patterns.
If you are on selection #12, think neutral, blah curtains blending into walls might be your best choice.
Instead of white or gray, you might be better off with natural linen or flax color.
A slant sided magazine rack may work. A wood one can have a hole drilled for the cord if there are no open slats.
BeverlyFLADeziner, I haven't seen the flat extension cords before, something to consider. Apple_pie_order; the slant side magazine rack is a good idea!
You will need two or three coats of primer.
Primer won't come in different sheens. There are different primers that are available, some that are really good at sealing knots in wood so you don't get the little round orange spots on your trim (called tannin bleed), some that will seal wallpaper glue so it doesn't bleed through and cause yellow staining on your walls, some that do a really good job at sealing new drywall.
Zinsser 123 is my go to primer when I don't have any unusual issues, but it probably isn't a lot different than the SW multi purpose primer and you can buy that at the SW store and have them tint it for you. Lori and Faron may have other suggestions.
If you have 8' walls and 150 sf room (400 sf of wall less windows and doors) it should take 1 gallon of primer+2 gallons of paint cover smooth walls.
I have not used SW Cashmere, but have used Duration and Emerald. The price difference is minimal and each level up you go in quality gives you better coverage and you shouldn't have to repaint as often.
with the current 15% discount
Emerald is $65 / gallon
Duration $60 / gallon and
Cashmere is $55 / gallon
You can get their highest quality paint for $10 more per gallon and have a much lower risk of it taking 3 coats to get good coverage. I would spend the extra $20 on two gallons of Emerald.
The issues I have seen with poor coverage generally are one of 2 root causes. 1 - the paint is spread too thin or 2 - the paint isn't a high quality product.
When you roll the paint don't let the roller get too the point where you have to push it against the wall to get the paint from the roller onto the wall and don't make it so wet that it slips without turning when you roll, the paint should glide onto the wall without needing pressure.
Hope this helps. If you still have questions try sending me a private message and I will send you my phone number.
I’m just trying to save on top paint with best sheen.
Cashmere low lustre is one of my favorites.
SW isn’t much help, saying flat, matte, or eggshell for “Cashmere” line.
Likely they're only talking top coats, not even thinking about a primer because Cashmere over BenM eggshell walls that are clean and no issues doesn't need a primer in their opinion.
You're not going to get consensus about whether you need to prime over eggshell for adhesion reasons - not gonna happen.
In terms of color, Pewter Cast in Cashmere low lustre should hide in 2. It's about 2 3/4 Munsell Value steps from Wrought Iron. Difference in LRV doesn't tell you anything useful in this case.
Urbane Bronze will look gloomy inside, it is better as an exterior accent.
Will you be replacing the football print bedding with something more suitable to older teens or is it fine for now? It's often easy to pick new paint colors using bedding colors as a guide.
Why do you want to steer him towards Iron Ore? Because you think it’s more grey ? If anything, the Urbane Bronze works better with his wood tones. But the main issue is that is his room...
OUr lokdest son painted a album cover on his bedroom wall it was mostly black . We sold thta house and the deal was we would reapit that wall since the buyers were using it for a nursery . I took 5 coats to cover it so be aware of that and just do one wall IMO. That space lloks really tight is there no way to remove those dressers and add better storage in the closet .
You have a contemporary painted brick house, not suited to board and batten add-ons. Cleaning or repairing the two stained areas on the garage, then repainting will go a long way.
What are your goals? Curb appeal? More welcoming look? More light and ventilation inside? What is your budget range for current changes?
Thank you so much for this Beverly! I needed some input like this! Built in 1977!
And we are in central Texas!
Buy twice as many pansies and petunias. Group them by color for more impact.
I'd celebrate the brick with a complimentary wall color. Teacup Rose 2170-50 | Benjamin Moore 2024 Colr Trends. And paint the white trim to match the bricks.
Plant larger shrubs to visually ground this area from a distance and cover the brick. If you like flowers, place a large pot between the downspout and hose and on the right side of the walkway in the front corner of the soil garden area. Plant big blossoming flowers there to punctuate the shrubs with a bit of color and floral interest.
You must do a floor plan so we can understand what you want to do.
If you want to make it cozy, don't make it taller. You can remove the doors, then expand the closet sideways. Add a sconce for a reading lamp. Make the new closet opening a standard size so you can put new doors on it. A 26 inch wide bench is much shallower than a sofa- kids may sprawl there but not adults. For inspiration, look at photos of window seats. You can use wallpaper or a stained glass photo mural for a "magic casement".
See photos here: https://www.houzz.com/magazine/8-tips-to-turn-your-attic-into-a-snug-reading-nook-stsetivw-vs~4048704
Do you have a photo of a test sample showing what you actually want? You may need another half a dozen test samples on your own floor.
Do you like the variation in the wood, or are you trying to make it more uniform? If the latter, I think a darker stain might be the best approach.
Wow, you have a true white and red oak floor mix. I would use Bona Natural seal and Traffic HD extra matte or something similar like Aqua choice natural white and ceramic star ultra matte.
The blue sample is not quite right. Take a look at these two plates to see some blue and green options. Or search for "Majorica pottery" or "Mallorica pottery". https://www.etsy.com/listing/1703102099/2-antique-griffen-smith-hill-etruscan
Buying an inspiration piece is often a great way to obtain color choices made by a professional designer.
Be sure to have the floor professionally cleaned before making final paint choices. It could be a lot lighter and brighter than it currently appears.
mnmamax3 thanks for the feedback! im not fully convinced either on the periwinkle, but i did notice in the paint store that it was considered a similar shade to the gustavian blue, just lighter but similar undertones. in the render it looks light but in the actual space, it reads richer cause the kitchen faces a building inner courtyard and does not get a lot of sun. The dark blue im considering in the large entryway room. that room does not have a lot of sun either so it looks super dark and moody.
I hope you find a blue you love and that you'll post pictures of it after you paint. Love the other floor pics too. Great to see homes that are so different than what's common in North American.
Three comments:
1- The more corners, the more expensive. Dormers add corners. They also have complicated acoustics.
2- Cost of digging a basement space depends a lot on local conditions (soil, drainage, etc.) In my area, you'd have to blast out the granite, so there aren't any basements.
3- You may want to consult a pro before designing the recording studio. Good acoustics and sound insulation are best designed in advance, not retrofitted.
I do have the necessary skills to do the vast majority of the work. I've been turning properties for years now, but never new construction (well, I helped build my teenage home, but like a typical teen, I didn't pay attention to my Dad and older brother so I didn't learn much).
@apple_pie_order There are 4 corners not including windows and exterior doors. I'll test a lot before purchasing it to confirm we can do a basement. Basements are very common here so I don't expect this to be a big issue, though there are places here that are very rocky.
A music friend of mine is a pro studio design engineer. We're going to exchange services so that the cost of design is reasonable otherwise I cound't afford it. We've already discussed ceiling height, room shape and angles, decoupling with materials and placement of sound absorption, sound diffusion, traps, monitors, etc. so that's already taken care of and ready to go since we'll be doing it in the basement. We just have to adjust a bit for the basement ceiling height disparity vs. our original plans. We would like 14 ft. ceilings, but will have to settle for 10 ft and adjust accordingly. Once the basement design is done, he and I will finalize the plans before building.
I have several close friends who are plumbers, electricians, framers, and my best friend is a GC. He'll be guiding me through the process and helping me as needed. I'm building debt free so I'm giving myself an 18 month to two year window to complete. It's 1340 ft2 main level and unsure still on the basement size. It will Likely be around 800 ft2, but maybe the full 1340 ft2. It all depends on cost and I have a specific budget I'm trying to stay under.
We'll quickly build a garage with an in-law apartment above and live on site while the house is built. My friends and I are getting together to build the garage quickly. I've helped them out over the years and they're repaying the favor. His wife (architect) will be approving my plan ideas, and helping me if needed. I'm pretty anal about quality work and no shortcuts so that's another reason I'm doing most of the work. I just don't like the shoddy work I see others do.
My friend's costs are $145/ft2 here for spec build minus property costs (about $30 - 50k for a nicer acre lot, cleared, etc.). That's with them subbing out several things. I'll be doing most of the work myself. I forgot to mention that I'll sub out roofing as I'm getting too old to do that any longer and want it up fast. I don't want to risk falling or hurting myself. I'll let the younger guys do that. We also going to do ICF so I'm taking an onsite course to get certified in ICF in a couple of months. I'll have a small crew of friends helping. Once the lot is prepared and basement slab is poured, cured a couple of weeks, we'll do the basement walls ICF vs. traditional poured. Let that set a few weeks and then pour the main level ICFs. I expenses quoted out and is reasonable for 6 in ICF.
Minardi mentioned $350/ft2 and beyond. We're in a smaller town (40k people) middle Tennessee an hour outside of Nashville so even the most extravagantly designed homes are much, much less than $350. I'll hopefully be between $135 - 160/ft2 not including lot costs and prep work. I could see that expense in some places in the US. and, I believe your idea of simple and mine are grossly different. When I say simple I do really mean simple so board and baton fiber cement siding mid-grade flooring, fixtures, etc. There will be some things like coffered ceiling, arts and crafts trim, etc. but I do that all myself and I have access to a lot of wholesalers in my area of the country so materials are less here than many places in the US. The windows are larger so those costs are more, but everything like the roof is 8/12 gable, 4 sides rectangle, three slide out doors and 13 windows. No bay windows. Roof will hopefully be stainless steal, but it will depend on costs. It does have a wrap around porch so that's an added cost, but not that much. Our budget is our budget. I'm not an emotional person and my wife is practical so we value nice, but simple. We're not buying a $4k refrigerator when a $1,8K one will do. We'll have a $100 ceiling fan vs. $450 ceiling fan, a $150 kitchen faucet vs. $600 faucet. I hand make my railing, newel posts, trim and plan on making the front entry doors, etc. We're designing for efficiency, with an arts and crafts look. It will look very nice on the inside, but I'm custom doing all the woodwork, trim, casing so it may look like it was expensive, but the cost is just in time/labor. With no construction loan, time doesn't hurt me. It's a smaller house to retire in when we retire an a few years that's large enough to have family over. Since we've decided on a basement, I'm working on the plans so the software can generate a materials list. I'll then price out every item to get a detailed cost analysis.
You have a lot of resources. The structure is a box. Start drawing on graph paper. Post some layouts of interior rooms. Let us know the location for climate. Directional orientation. Lot size. When you have nailed down the design, Draw it to scale using STAEDTLER 18" x 24" Vellum Paper With Title Block (10 ct) Delivery or Pickup Near Me - Instacart You can get prints and show it to your friend's wife. I'd go with the basement version.
Have you looked at exterior solar shades?
You install solar shades inside to control the heat and UV they work really well , they let you keep the view and more important do not screw up the exterior look of the house . I do not like tinted windows since I often roll my solar shades up on a cloudy day .. I think maybe you just got the wrong solar shades I have never found them not to work. If you have single paned windows my suggestion would be change those too. I ise 10% dark colored solar shades so either bronze or charcoal depending on your color scheme and where ever I have put them the temp inside the space drops dramatically .
^^ In Canada.
J, have you searched ’modern awnings for windows’ or similar terms? I did; quite a few came up that might work with your house (great-looking house, btw).
Or maybe have a pro come look and give you ideas?
I did see this retractable type that might work, and you could retract it in cool months:
I’m in D/FW and have found wood blinds to help better than solar shades with heat … and we get weeks upon weeks of triple digits and scorching sun. Plus, you can control better how much light comes in.
ETA: A Crape Myrtle that gets to tree size might be worth considering on the right hand side. They grow fast.
It's refreshing to see a colorful room in Houzz posts. The harlequin curtains posted by S M are perfect.
Thank you! I’ve been trying to find a spot for this giant dream catcher and just can’t seem to place it correctly.
There’s not much I can do about the ceiling without having a huge remodel project, our builder was really insistent that we have the odd tray shape/moulding to add depth to the room but I agree it looks out of place. Maybe a few years down the road we can do something else with it.
Chairs moved forward really helps, thank you!
Could the dream catcher and the picture grouping on the other side of the white door (on the same wall) trade places?
I would take those pictures, the only of the other side of the TV, and the ones on the sliding glass door wall and arrange them around the TV so that both sides look balanced.
I know you are just starting out so smaller pictures are easiest but this article about placing art might help with the room feeling more pulled together. (Or something to keep in mind as you add to your collection. Also my husband and I starting writing where we bought an art piece and the year/event on the back. It’s a fun memory walk and we would never remember otherwise!)
https://stylebyemilyhenderson.com/blog/design-mistake-how-to-hang-art-on-all-your-walls
Thanks for window photos. It looks like the windows have various conditions, not all falling apart simultaneously.
Please post an update when you have quotes for various options.
Beautiful house! Do you have DIY skills at all? My husband and I are rehabbing our casement windows one at a time. It’s time intensive but not hard. We learned everything from online resources.
We got an estimate for replacing one large picture window and it was 8 grand for an equivalent of the wood frame original.
I found a company that rehabs old windows and doors -- that's all they do. I wanted to maintain as many of the original features of my 1928 English cottage as possible so I hired them and am glad I did. For me the alternative would have been VERY expensive new windows because I couldn't stand the thought of most of the products on the market.
Walking around my neighborhood of older homes, the ones that have the most charm still have original windows and doors. Old houses are definitely a labor of love (and not cheap to own). Enjoy your new home - it's gorgeous!
Nice small powder room, it looks spotless and well kept.
If you can take a couple more photos without panorama mode, it would be easier to figure out the shape of the vanity and mirrors.
Also, do you think a simple wall mounted toilet paper holder would fit near the front end of the toilet?
Have you talked to an agent already about what is worth doing in your market?
@shirllpp , you have sharp eyes to spot the edge of the tub!
Paint the vanity the pink of the counter, using a semi-gloss finish. The walls are white, so add a chair rail around the room and wallpaper above it.
Mirror is very big for the space, but replacing it might run you into money. Take it down and remove the crown molding so it just the frames around mirror are left. Paint it the pink of the vanity...same finish.
If you were to change out the vanity, how hard/$$ would it be to put in a normal, narrow vanity or pedestal sink? Even if it is narrow, I’d rather not stand kitty-corner to the toilet while brushing my teeth; back up wrong and you hit the commode?