“Oversized” Clothing: Yea or Nay?
Kswl
11 days ago
last modified: 10 days ago
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Space heating only - yea or nay?
Comments (14)That's a great shame that the electric price is skewed that way, but I still don't know if you have AC or not. If yes, when it craps out, it's easy to convert to a heat pump. Meantime gas furnace is the way to go. Choose high efficiency (you may not have the choice anyway) - even in a retro there is ALWAYS a way to make the vents work. Plug in heaters? You probably have aluminium house wiring. Don't risk overloading it. It will cost you as much or more than the electric furnace in the end, as well as burning your house down. I think our gas bill here in central British Columbia is around $60cdn or a little more monthly in winter. You will spend much, much less. Our gas rate might be a little cheaper of course. If the electric rate was better, a heat pump will work efficiently right down to 0ÃÂ C/32ÃÂF. Some even lower. What you are perceiving as cold is probably dampness. Consider getting one or two dehumidifiers, and run them in the occupied areas (and maybe move them around) - you will find the place feels much warmer, and you won't need to turn up the heat so much anyway. The forced air you have now is not really removing that humidity. NZ and Australia I referenced earlier are now tending to recommend dehumidifiers commonly now, for that reason. It rarely gets to freezing and more commonly sits in the double digit Celcius range, but parts can be damp. That's the chilly part....See MoreHelp me replace our crown molding with contemporary
Comments (16)I also agree: keep the molding and paint it the same color as the walls. I've seen examples of contemporary or modern furniture & decor working beautifully with that kind of treatment. I can't recall where exactly, but I'm pretty sure it was in one of Donald Kaufman's and Taffy Dahl's books on color/paint. The books are packed away somewhere, so I am relying on memory -- of an elaborate traditional room in a house in San Fransisco. The moldings were extremely ornate, and the whole room, walls + molding, was done in a soft grey or soft beige I think. The effect was stunning, and the room was a beautiful backdrop to the decor. Not only that, you'd be removing a valuable architectural part of your house (and an expensive one, as hosenemesis has pointed out) and, given the price of materials today, probably replacing it with molding of lesser-quality. Our former house was an Italianate Victorian, and the former owner "modernized" some rooms in it. Every time we priced out the cost of millwork to replace the missing or damaged molding and trim, I wanted to track down the former owner and bop him over the head with a two-by-four. We eventually sold that house, in a down market for full price, and one of the elements that the buyers found so appealing was the original trim. You simply cannot replace that kind of architectural element today. Well, you can, but it's going to cost you -- to really, really cost you....See MoreIkea butcher block countertops
Comments (49)They have stock sizing. We used the 73" X 39" for our separate peninsula and had a woodworker to the sink cut-out and routing. We also used the Lagan (now discontinued) for the seat of our banquette, which DH cut and joined together himself; the joint is covered by a cushion. IIRC, Lumber Liquidators also sells BB countertops in longer lengths. Or did you mean deeper, as in from front to back? You may have to go more custom route if you have more depth. BTW, we have plenty of cut BB scraps, and none of them look like EmikoF2's. That definitely looks like a "bad" batch. So sorry. :(...See MoreGood idea to recess pantry cabinet?
Comments (12)I like what Edmond & MDLN show. Deep pantry shelves cause more issues than they help. Using MDL's & Edmond's ideas, you can take advantage of the deeper space in the lower cabinets with drawer and then have shallower shelves (12"D - the "sweet spot" for pantry shelf depth") for items too high to use drawers. You might also consider a raised counter there so you get one more deep drawer. One thing to keep in mind, however, is that it may not be easy to reach the top shelves b/c you have to reach over the deeper base cabinets. If you're fairly tall, then it probably won't be an issue, but if you're short, it may be. If you think it will be an issue reaching things, consider pullout pantries or a built-in reach-in pantry -- see below. Pullout Pantry Cabinets... The pullout pantry idea might work as well, as long as they aren't any wider than 18". Any wider and things will get lost. With no more than 18" width, you can see everything by looking at, first one side, and then the other. This means nothing can "hide" behind other things, unlike with wider pantry cabinets (especially non-pullout). In addition, a pullout means all the shelves pull out together when the doors are opened (there are usually two doors - one on the top half and one on the bottom half - with the shelves attached to the doors). This means you can see even the items in the "depths" of the cabinet since they shelves are all completely pulled out. (It also means less opening/closing doors looking for things.) How wide is that space once you take the walls down? Taking the walls down will add approx 4.5" of width for each wall. So, for example, if you have 30" of width now, taking down the two walls would give you 39" (4.5" x 2). If only one wall, then 30" + 4.5" = 34.5". I would put in pantry pullout pantries to meet that width - for example, if you have a total of 30" to work with -- two 15"W pullout pantry cabinets -or- one 18"W & one 12"W if you have a total of 36" to work with -- two 18"W pullout pantry cabinets Reach-In Pantry... The best pantry option, though, is a "built in" reach-in pantry with shelves 12" deep. You have full view of everything when you open the doors (just look up/down), you have full access with no doors/drawer fronts in the way, and you can utilize the entire space floor-to-ceiling. Cabinets are limited in height and you generally lose 4.5" on the bottom for the toe-kick as well as the top with the limited cabinet height. There are no such constraints/limitations in a reach-in pantry. The key is for it to not be too deep overall with shelves no more than 12" deep. You might be able to get a wider pantry if you turn it to face the hall and utilize the entire space you say you have in the walls. The one you have right now is probably too deep and it's a bit narrow. Turning it 90 degrees so it faces the hall may solve the issues you have with the existing pantry....See MoreKswl
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