You might want to try posting this in the houseplants forum as Peace Lily is not really a lily. I have divided a Peace Lily in the past. I've never tried taking a cutting to root. Perhaps someone else will know.

Hi droogie6655321 You should be able to expect germination in as little as 4 or 5 days & possibly as much as 10 to 14 days depending on conditions. Hopefully you rolled the seed (with a rented water fillable roller) to get good seed-to-soil contact. If it's a small area, just walk all over it. I plan to keep the ground moist over the next week or so Yes, moist. Not wet. If you see puddles, it's too much water. Also, keeping the soil moist should be maintained until germination, then you can begin to back off on watering to say, once a day for about a week, then every other day, then twice a week, then once a week. Often it's thought that lawns don't really need to be watered regularly, but I want to caution you that you'll need to really baby this grass this year. In fact, this is about the worst time of year to seed a cool season grass in Oklahoma, as the new TTTF seedlings you sowed will have a very difficult time making it through the heat of summer. Some will, but expect that likely at least half or more won't. No biggie though! The really best time to overseed this stuff is right after the heat of summer breaks, so be ready to overseed again in fall to get yourself a good stand of turf for next summer's heat. Also know that you'll have quite a bit of weeds germinating as well as your grass since you're creating those good germinating conditions, but that goes hand in hand with starting new turfgrass. Concentrate on getting a good stand of grass this year, then this fall & next spring you can begin using pre-emergents to reduce germination of annual weeds. If you don't already own a Weed Hound, I'd strongly suggest purchasing one, they're about $20 at HD or Lowes, and you can pull weeds root & all as fast as you can step on 'em! As far as fertilizers, the best pre-seeding fertilizer to use is alfalfa pellets. They contain trianconatol, a natural fatty-acid growth stimulant. This is good to use for new grassplants/seedlings because they encourage root growth. Apply at 15-20lbs per 1000sqft. Then water it in. (Preferrably 2 weeks before seeding.) Once the lawn gets established, I think soybean meal is the best to use. Soybean meal has a high (47%) protein content, so less material is needed to provide the lawn with 1lb of N per 1000sqft. (The typical application rate for most chemical synthetic fertilizers is 1lb N per 1000sqft) The typical NPK analysis for soybean meal would be 7-2-1. It's my grain of choice because I get the most "bang for my buck" from it. I use a 50lb bag of it on my approx 3500sqft lawn (14lbs/1000sqft.) every 4 weeks. (My lawn is bermuda, a very heavy feeder.) I hope my 2 cents helps some. Good day, Dan

Use seed, You must remove the seed from the flesh , soak overnight and clean the seed - wash all flesh off, always use the freshest seed you can get. I have had varied results but always get some up - just plant in pots in standard new potting mix, a little apart but as many as you like in the pot. When they germinate wait until there are at least for leaves then gently squeeze the pot and carefully ease the plants out and pot into their own small deep container. Do not tip out the pot as there may be more still to germinate. Germination should take from less than a month to 3,4 months or more it depends on the temp.

Claire, are you certain that's not two differing types of plants growing in close proximity to each other? That's the way it looks to me. There are plant types in this world having what is known as "juvenile" foliage. Such things as plants in the genera Thuja, Chamaecyparis, Juniper4us, and others -those are all conifers-have this juvenile type of foliage, and most, but not all, then switch to the mature foliage type as the plant gets older. So too with something like oaks....there's lots of species of oaks, and because their first sets of leaves don't necessarily resemble those of a mature tree, identification of very young plants can be difficult. But that's not this.