Update (2013 follow-up) of successful steep slope plantings on a dry sandy slope in So. Calif. In my previous post, I listed drought-tolerant Calif. natives used in my initial plantings. But the fire department does NOT like summer-deciduous plants such as sages. And as water was reduced, plants such as Wooly Blue Curls did not survive. It has been a 10-year project and this is how I turned a steep dry sandy slope into a drought-tolerant garden: 1) Basic Calif-native trees & shrubs were planted (a couple of Coast Live Oaks, lots of fire-resistant Toyons, McMinn Manzanitas, Sunset Manzanitas and the wonderful Hollyleaf Cherry are good choices). At the driest upper areas, Palo Verde Trees were planted for their deep tap roots and provide 25% shade cover when leafed out during the summer. 2) The slope is very steep. As I worked the sloped while planting and watering, a curvy informal foot trail started to form. As the trees and shrubs took hold of the soil, these foot trails were gradually deepened. Most native ground covers are sold as tiny little things that can't get a hold on steep slopes or are buried under a shovel of dirt unless planted at the base of an agave for protection. Tip: Buckwheat prostrate is a great steep-slope ground-cover that drapes down and hides the vertical cut edge of pathways. 3) The native flower shrubs (Wooly Blue Curls) died. Calif. Fushia is very dought resistant and is best if tucked under an agave to brighten up the driest desert plantings at the upper level. As the trees, shrubs and trails became established, lots of agaves were added to hold the surface soil. Cabbage-sized boulders were often used to hold new plants into the slope. 4) Erosion: A line of three monster Blue Agaves were planted in a horizontal line whenever a "dam" was needed to divert rainwater from running straight down the slope. The maturing slope contours (trails) were gradually deepened and dirt bermed up so that rainwater would travel across the slope and flow into collection basins behind trees and shrubs along the way. The pathway/contours took a lot of time to evolve but was well worth the effort. Instead of walking "on" the slope, the deepened pathways amongst the plantings now gives the feeling of a nature hike. 5) Gradually, non-native plants (aloes) were added to the semi-shaded areas. For the upper "desert" area, tons of barrel cactus and agaves were used as a ground cover alongside uprights such as pony-tail palms and colorful upright non-native Sticks on Fire & Crown of Thorns. This large (1/2 acre) hot dry, sandy steep slope was a real challenge and still is not finished. To make things look right on a large steep slope, you will need dozens of each plant to form groupings. You can use dozens of spikey Agave Geminiflora to give the illusion of a "meadow". Dozens of Golden Barrel cactus planted in an informal "swirl" along a switchback gives the impression of a flower garden from a distance. With a little imagination and a lot work, a steep slope can become a beautiful garden. Take courage, though, because it takes YEARS before others are able to "see" what you have planted. And on difficult slopes, it is better to overplant your basics of trees & shrubs because on a contoured steep slope, a sprinkler grid is too complex and you will lose some trees/shrubs when hand-watering is reduced.

Any idea which Callistemon you have? Maybe drought could be the problem if it's a native of a very wet part of Australia, though they are usually very drought hardy even then. Sometimes a lot of rain after drought causes a problem. What about the neighbours? Have you looked around the area to see if there are other callistemons of the same kind, and how they're doing? The idea that pruning has harmed it don't sound likely. I wouldn't expect a problem from pruning a healthy tree unless it was pruned back very hard, and then it would be more likely to have died in quite a short time, rather than fade away over three years. Has there been root disturbance? Building done in the vicinity? Change in the mulching regime? (Not everything loves mulch.) Have you fertilised? If so it could have caused problems. Trish

g'day roy, there are around 3 leaf eating bugs for gum trees they all look similar to each other but surprisingly have different scientific names (don't have them to hand) they look a bit like an oversize lady bird, our method of treatment as to do an early morn' collectin and drop them into a bottle with some kero' in it same treatment for their larva when you find it. these bugs can all but denude a tree of foliage but for the main the tree will revive over winter, i think the best control method is to attract the noisy miners into you garden they will take care of the larva and hence the beetle, the honey eaters will also help. search for eucalyptus leaf eaters. this may help len Here is a link that might be useful: lens garden page

Wow - this thread has really taken off, hasnt it ? Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions. I am reasonably au fait with most of the suggestions for the feature tree, with the exception of the bottle tree, but plants such as Native Gardenia are something of an unknown. I am also very wary of the impact of the Rocky sun on many rainforest species, even those marked 'full sun' : establishing the microclimate which allows these plants to take full sun is probably better left to species such as acacia and melaleuca. Experience has taught me that there are exceptions, and the Penda in my last garden has gone from strength to strength in the furnace that is our afternoon sun - its currently alive with yellow flowers and is bushy right to its bootstraps. I have recommended the various E. Ficifolia / E. Ptychocarpa hybrids (now Corymbias, I believe) to my friend, but the grafted rootstock seems to constrain them to no more than 5-6 metres, and I believe that I need something more in the 12m plus range to shield the front of the house from the blistering afternoon sun. It also needs to be sufficiently dense at the top to make 'worthwhile' shade, without being a menace to people standing beneath it. Ultimately, it will come down to the stock that Fitzroy Nurseries have in May - most of the other nurseries just dont persist with anything larger than 14" pots. I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers, Artie